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Old 9th February 2020, 20:14   #11
Arctic
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Originally Posted by Jamiewelch View Post


Pin 2 and pin 8 of the car side of the loom . I don't mind helping! You may have to add the pins, but they should be same as most of the plugs in the car.

Car - Speaker

Pin 8 - Pin 1
Pin 2 - Pin 2

Photo to go with diagram above
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Old 9th February 2020, 21:17   #12
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Thanks Jamie and Steve. Will have a go when the weather gets better all the best and thanks again Chris (hope to see you both at the nano )
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Old 10th February 2020, 11:17   #13
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Thanks Jamie and Steve. Will have a go when the weather gets better all the best and thanks again Chris (hope to see you both at the nano )
No problem! Give me a shout if you need anything.
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Old 7th April 2020, 08:50   #14
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Hi, Can anyone tell me what those orange connectors in Post #11 Thumbnail 2 are called. Thanks, MikeH.
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Old 7th April 2020, 08:58   #15
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Hi, Can anyone tell me what those orange connectors in Post #11 Thumbnail 2 are called. Thanks, MikeH.
Yes, they're called Scotchloks, a bodgy horrible IDC type connector, and best avoided like the plague

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Old 7th April 2020, 09:07   #16
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I'm going to attempt the same job. Can you recommend another/better method/connector. Thanks, MikeH
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Old 7th April 2020, 09:27   #17
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I'm going to attempt the same job. Can you recommend another/better method/connector. Thanks, MikeH
Hi Mike.
You can strip back the wire on the loom, and splice in the wire from the speaker and solder it, or you can use a crimp connector with added heat shrink, the connectors (Scotch locks )I used for the temporary bodge were the only connectors I had at the time, and did not have a soldering iron, that bodge remained on the car until the day it left my hands I am afraid to never got round to rectifying it.
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Last edited by Arctic; 7th April 2020 at 10:12.. Reason: rectification
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Old 7th April 2020, 09:29   #18
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I'm going to attempt the same job. Can you recommend another/better method/connector. Thanks, MikeH
If I were doing the job, it would be cut, soldered then heatshrink tubing Mike, a won't use Scotchloks under any circumtances.

In running wire joints, Rover used splice joints, which are essentially tubular crimps with blue insulation tape wrapped around the joint.

You can emulate this by carefully removing the insulation on the running cable using side cutter to strip the sheath without cutting the conductor, then wrapping the new cable around very tightly, then soldering, simply tinning the joint will be sufficient, then taping with a quality tape.

Brian
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Old 7th April 2020, 09:53   #19
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Thank you Arctic & Brian.
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Old 7th April 2020, 10:11   #20
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[QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
If I were doing the job, it would be cut, soldered then heatshrink tubing Mike, a won't use Scotchloks under any circumtances.

In running wire joints, Rover used splice joints, which are essentially tubular crimps with blue insulation tape wrapped around the joint.

You can emulate this by carefully removing the insulation on the running cable using side cutter to strip the sheath without cutting the conductor, then wrapping the new cable around very tightly, then soldering, simply tinning the joint will be sufficient, then taping with a quality tape.

Brian [/QUOTE
]


Hi Brian.
You did not like my temporary Scotch lock bodge then I have to agree with you of cause only thing I had at the time, soldering would be good as you suggest, with heat shrink or tape.
1

I think this method is also suitable cut loom wire then join speaker to loom one end add the heat shrink/glue connector loom wire the other end crimp & heat to seal.
2

3

4

I don't think I have ever used the Scotch locks before or after that first time
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Check out our Nano meet dates
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