EGR replacement advice please!

Chunky2778 · 3rd February 2020, 21:39

Hi all, my 04 cdti isn't great on fuel around town, noticeably so over my old ztt. Current zt does around 32-35mpg, ztt always got high 30's.

There's also a little cough/flatspot around 1800-2000rpm, bit of black smoke now and again and the exhaust fumes smell really bad.

What's the advantage of these bypass kits I'm seeing on ebay over just blanking the pipe off at the exhaust manifold end? I've tried crimping the Egr valve vacuum inlet over to stop it opening, it's made a difference but not as much as I'd like.

Any reason I can't just make up a plate as above as long as the Egr valve is sealing?

spyder · 3rd February 2020, 21:47

A plate (disc) will do the trick, as long as it is the correct size and thickness. Many of us have taken the innards out of the OEM one, machined bits to fit and have the disc in place. Looks OEM for MOT and works fine.
Cleaning everything is a must as well, a horrible dirty job that makes a big difference.

The MAP (boost pressure) sensor in the inlet manifold also gets gummed up and cause issues. This is NOT the MAF.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunky2778

Hi all, my 04 cdti isn't great on fuel around town, noticeably so over my old ztt. Current zt does around 32-35mpg, ztt always got high 30's.

There's also a little cough/flatspot around 1800-2000rpm, bit of black smoke now and again and the exhaust fumes smell really bad.

What's the advantage of these bypass kits I'm seeing on ebay over just blanking the pipe off at the exhaust manifold end? I've tried crimping the Egr valve vacuum inlet over to stop it opening, it's made a difference but not as much as I'd like.

Any reason I can't just make up a plate as above as long as the Egr valve is sealing?

Chunky2778 · 3rd February 2020, 21:52

Thanks Spyder, I'd read somewhere that blanking it that way can cause the supply pipe to crack though, is that correct and was why I was wondering about blocking it at the manifold end?

I'll take a look at the MAP too thanks, hadn't thought of that.

BigRuss · 3rd February 2020, 22:07

You don't need a blanking plate just disconnect and plug the vacuum pipe that will do the trick

Russ

Chunky2778 · 4th February 2020, 06:32

Thanks Russ, would that not be what I've done by crimping the Egr valve vacuum inlet over, as only a slight improvement since I did that?

trikey · 4th February 2020, 07:23

I blanked mine off at the manifold, no problems at all, I have seen more than one egr pipe fracture when a bypass is fitted to the autos for some reason?

Arctic · 4th February 2020, 11:25

AS above you can gut the original EGR blank of it's end and inner section, also fit a screw into the valve vacuum inlet, and file nice and round, cleanout the manifold, give the MAP sensor a clean, do not poke anything into the end of the MAP senor.

1

2

3

4

You need to get the manifold clean inside like this below.

5

The MAP sensor may well look like this.

6

You want it to look like this.

7

Cleaned a few out recently

8

9

10

Also check the intercooler O-rings replace with Viton if you have not done it over the last few years.

Is your engine getting up temp or do you have the failing thermostat issue, opening to early, if so an inline stat will help with part of the remedy to the MPG

Chunky2778 · 4th February 2020, 21:56

Thanks arctic, so if I gut the Egr valve and put a disc in there the supply pipe from the manifold won't split?

How did you get the disc to stay in there, JB weld or something?

Yeah my manifold needs a clean then it's full of sticky carbon!

First thing I did was the renault 5 thermostat mod as when I picked it up it was billowing black smoke under load and not warming up.

I did the vitron rings on my old mk 1 ztt but I had an admittedly quick look the other day and it looked as though the mk 2 had a different intercooler?

Arctic · 5th February 2020, 07:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunky2778

Thanks arctic, so if I gut the Egr valve and put a disc in there the supply pipe from the manifold won't split?

How did you get the disc to stay in there, JB weld or something

?

Yeah my manifold needs a clean then it's full of sticky carbon!

First thing I did was the renault 5 thermostat mod as when I picked it up it was billowing black smoke under load and not warming up.

I did the vitron rings on my old mk 1 ztt but I had an admittedly quick look the other day and it looked as though the mk 2 had a different intercooler?

HI Matt
I have not seen any supply pipe split yet in the last 11 years, but have heard of them, my first tourer had it for 6 years and was still ok when I sold it on.

I did not use a disc I use an alloy bar, metal discs have been used as have 2p pieces then held in with JB Weld.

1

2

Chunky2778 · 9th February 2020, 20:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

HI Matt
I have not seen any supply pipe split yet in the last 11 years, but have heard of them, my first tourer had it for 6 years and was still ok when I sold it on.

I did not use a disc I use an alloy bar, metal discs have been used as have 2p pieces then held in with JB Weld.

1

2

Thanks Arctic, I'll give that a go!

3rd February 2020, 21:39	#1
Chunky2778 Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Plymouth Posts: 109 Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts	EGR replacement advice please! Hi all, my 04 cdti isn't great on fuel around town, noticeably so over my old ztt. Current zt does around 32-35mpg, ztt always got high 30's. There's also a little cough/flatspot around 1800-2000rpm, bit of black smoke now and again and the exhaust fumes smell really bad. What's the advantage of these bypass kits I'm seeing on ebay over just blanking the pipe off at the exhaust manifold end? I've tried crimping the Egr valve vacuum inlet over to stop it opening, it's made a difference but not as much as I'd like. Any reason I can't just make up a plate as above as long as the Egr valve is sealing?

3rd February 2020, 22:07	#4
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,405 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	You don't need a blanking plate just disconnect and plug the vacuum pipe that will do the trick Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

4th February 2020, 07:23	#6
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,766 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	I blanked mine off at the manifold, no problems at all, I have seen more than one egr pipe fracture when a bypass is fitted to the autos for some reason? __________________ Lest we forget..

4th February 2020, 11:25	#7
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,709 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	AS above you can gut the original EGR blank of it's end and inner section, also fit a screw into the valve vacuum inlet, and file nice and round, cleanout the manifold, give the MAP sensor a clean, do not poke anything into the end of the MAP senor. 1 2 3 4 You need to get the manifold clean inside like this below. 5 The MAP sensor may well look like this. 6 You want it to look like this. 7 Cleaned a few out recently 8 9 10 Also check the intercooler O-rings replace with Viton if you have not done it over the last few years. Is your engine getting up temp or do you have the failing thermostat issue, opening to early, if so an inline stat will help with part of the remedy to the MPG __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 4th February 2020 at 11:28..

3rd February 2020, 21:52	#3
Chunky2778 Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Plymouth Posts: 109 Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts	Thanks Spyder, I'd read somewhere that blanking it that way can cause the supply pipe to crack though, is that correct and was why I was wondering about blocking it at the manifold end? I'll take a look at the MAP too thanks, hadn't thought of that.

4th February 2020, 06:32	#5
Chunky2778 Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Plymouth Posts: 109 Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts	Thanks Russ, would that not be what I've done by crimping the Egr valve vacuum inlet over, as only a slight improvement since I did that?

4th February 2020, 21:56	#8
Chunky2778 Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Plymouth Posts: 109 Thanks: 5 Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts	Thanks arctic, so if I gut the Egr valve and put a disc in there the supply pipe from the manifold won't split? How did you get the disc to stay in there, JB weld or something? Yeah my manifold needs a clean then it's full of sticky carbon! First thing I did was the renault 5 thermostat mod as when I picked it up it was billowing black smoke under load and not warming up. I did the vitron rings on my old mk 1 ztt but I had an admittedly quick look the other day and it looked as though the mk 2 had a different intercooler?