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1st February 2020, 18:04 | #11 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,912
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Quote:
I made sure the metal plates could not spin and also glued them in place and then used ordinary 6mm bolts macafee2 |
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1st February 2020, 18:50 | #12 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
Location: Birmingham
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I wedged a thick metal bar under where the fixings were mounted and got mine off. I then just clipped three of the fixings that are used on the the engine under cover. Never had any problems with them over the last 6 years.
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Great Barr, Birmingham. |
1st February 2020, 19:02 | #13 |
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
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I always use spires & screw bolts, easy to remove when ever you wish.
1 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383329657...m=383329657599 2 On this car the air duct had the modified duct done therefore it was going to be replaced with the original air duct. 3 Easy to remove as it was not connected to the slam panel 4 5 As you can see the rubbish brass collect and metal bolts had been left in situ using some long nosed mole grips & 8mm socket soon remove them. 6 Add the spire to the end of the air duct. 7 Fit the air duct back on the car using the new screw bolts 8
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
1st February 2020, 19:54 | #14 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,912
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
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macafee2 |
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