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24th January 2019, 11:04 | #1 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: ROTTERDAM
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Track control arm repair
Dear members
I went to the garage today for the annual MOT and the technician observed some movement/margin/space between the wheel and track arm ( he was twisting the front wheels and it was not solid. The verdict was to replace the joint. I checked online for parts at these known online shops and they were selling the whole track control arm, so not the joint individually. Is it true that u need to replace the whole part (track arm) or u can replace the joint that might be available somewhere? Because on the parts shop i see track arms with the joint part(black part at the end of the track arm,which i think its the joint part): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/esen-skv/8642527 (The mechanic told me to get this one with the black part at the end, this might be broken when they remove it so his suggestion was to buy one with the black part at the end, to be on the safe side) but also without one: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2201802 This is my part to be replaced: Anybody experience the same situation and whats best practise?? Thanks!!! Last edited by ferser1; 24th January 2019 at 11:18.. |
24th January 2019, 11:20 | #2 |
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Yes the whole arm has to be replaced unfortunately, and the black thing is the rear bush not a bad idea to replace it at the same time good luck.
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24th January 2019, 11:43 | #3 |
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Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2018
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i see. well the parts are still ok in terms of cost considering i had to bleed 1300 euros last month for replacing clutch plates,flywheel,master and slave clutch cilinder.
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24th January 2019, 12:40 | #4 | |
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Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
Ouch that is a lot of euros! Have you seen our meet in Holland later this year?
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24th January 2019, 12:50 | #5 |
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None at the moment Join Date: Jan 2018
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Rimmers show the bush separately https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001541
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24th January 2019, 16:27 | #6 |
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27th January 2019, 09:54 | #8 |
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If you had been able to replace the bush on its own, there is a "how To" - Link
I have done this twice. Last year I also needed to change the whole arm after the MOT failure. I had two problems: Firstly, the tools and force required to crack the sub-frame bush taper was immense and necessarily violent, even with the weight of the car on it. Secondly, as I purchased the bush & wishbone arm separately, it was such a tight fit that I needed to heat the bush in hot water and freeze the arm in the freezer in order to get the parts to go together even with washing up liquid to lubricate it.
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