has this ever happened to anyone before?

[Arctic]

It happens due to the ball being spot welded in that area, preventive task is to add a plate before it happens both sides.

Happened to my tourer back in 2013, on the rear left looking at it, made up some plates and fitted those it was solid after.

[Lotaskin]

Hi Rick
Yes as others have said its common.
I made a successful repair to mine some years ago with a penny washer and JB Weld. Still holding strong.
As you know I'm not far from you and happy to pop over to show you my repair.
Regards
Peter

[Rick-sta]

thanks all for the helpful replies, don't feel so worried now knowing it can be repaired

has anyone got any pics of their repairs so I can see how it's been done? I'll probably get a local welder to sort it out once I start working on the tourer properly.

Hi Rick
Yes as others have said its common.
I made a successful repair to mine some years ago with a penny washer and JB Weld. Still holding strong.
As you know I'm not far from you and happy to pop over to show you my repair.
Regards
Peter

Hi Peter, would be interested in seeing your repair, many thanks for the offer I could always pop by and see you some time if it's easier

Happened to me 5 years ago, seems very common and makes a horrible noise when it goes. My local garage fabricated some plates and have been fine since.

Do you have any pics of the repair to see how the plates look?

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by trikey

Yes, weak tailgate struts! They don’t stress the area as much!!

Weak struts and an old broom handle to prop the tailgate up.

They threw some adjustable struts out at work that I used on my boot when it started to sag. You could only adjust them one way - there was a bleed grub screw, but they worked a treat.

[alanaslan]

Originally Posted by JerseySteve

Been interested if anyone has a preventative measure that works?

Being a sad old man who used to restore classic cars as a sideline business. We always treated all cars with Dinitrol found this to be very effective and stopping the dreaded ferrous oxide in its tracks every cavity was filled with wax spray, areas we could not gain access to had holes drilled in a place that would give best access for our 360 degree spray wands, once the area had been treated we fitted rubber grommets. We tried to get access to all areas including all box sections. Then we coated every surface that was not visible paint work with surface wax.
When I have done my own Rovers the Tourers took about nine litres of wax in total using around three different types of wax.
I have found that my cars survive the lovely Scottish Weather and the local councils salt.
Hope this advice will help sadly it is more prevention rather than cure.
Alan


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[Rick-sta]

Just a quick update on this, I have now fixed the tailgate today. Many thanks to Peter (Lotaskin) who popped round a while ago and showed me how he repaired the same issue on his with a metal plate and some JB Weld. Thanks again mate much appreciated .

I ordered a couple strips of stainless steel, both 80mm x 30mm and 2mm in thickness from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291026367918?ul_noapp=true

I messaged them regarding the size I wanted and they were able to send me two pieces cut to the size I required.

I also ordered this JB weld: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-Weld-O...tKTo:rk:3:pf:0

The bits required cost me £10.25 in total.


I managed to pull the ball socket back out as it was pushed in quite a bit and removed the ball socket.





Gave the area where the stainless plate will be fitted a quick sanding to prep the surface for the JB weld.

I drilled a hole on the center of both stainless plates so that the ball socket thread can be passed through it. I then mixed the JB weld and applied it to the stainless plate evenly and also onto the damaged part of the metal around the thread for the ball socket just to try and strengthen the damage.

Fitted the ball socket and stainless plate, gave it time to set and then refitted the strut. Job done



Checked the other strut and found a very small hole near it, looks like that side would eventually have done the same, so just as a preventative measure I fitted the second stainless plate with JB weld to that side as well.



All sorted now

[vacuman]

Nice one Rick. Maybe worth drilling a small hole above each repair and filling each pillar with something to halt further corrosion? Even a couple of Poundshop aerosols of spray grease or 'WD40' type stuff should be enough to keep moisture (condensation?) from hanging around where it's not wanted. I'll be doing that to mine before not too long and, fortunately, there's no sign of any rust...yet.

[Eddy600]

Need to do mine been putting it off for months and have been using a broom handle to hold the boot up could the metal plate be put on the inside so it wouldnt be seen or isn't this possible?

[Rick-sta]

Originally Posted by vacuman

Nice one Rick. Maybe worth drilling a small hole above each repair and filling each pillar with something to halt further corrosion? Even a couple of Poundshop aerosols of spray grease or 'WD40' type stuff should be enough to keep moisture (condensation?) from hanging around where it's not wanted. I'll be doing that to mine before not too long and, fortunately, there's no sign of any rust...yet.

You could do, but I think the problem is caused by metal fatigue from all the stress on that part of the metal from the weight of the tailgate and the pressure from the struts, rather than rust. They should have made that part of the body much stronger from factory, but unfortunately the metal is rather thin (only around 2-3mm) so eventually it flexes and splits.

Need to do mine been putting it off for months and have been using a broom handle to hold the boot up could the metal plate be put on the inside so it wouldnt be seen or isn't this possible?

Wouldn't be possible to fit it on the inside unfortunately, no access to do that. You could always colour code the metal strip to make it blend in more