Is rustproofing an old car like mine worthwhile?

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

PS. MarinaBrian is VERY rich.--

If only John


Brian

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by macafee2

whats the best way to tackle it

macafee2

Wire brush, Kurust and a wing and prayer works for me Ian

[AndyN01]

These folks:

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...st-treatments/

Very helpful technical department also.

Andy.

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Wire brush, Kurust and a wing and prayer works for me Ian

And goggles ...

[hogweed]

As I approach 10 years of 75 ownership, and having just been presented with my car’s annual demand for several hundred Pounds’ worth of maintenance (this time front shocks, top mounts, lower arm and bush etc), I find myself asking the same question… again…


My perspective: rationally, there’s no justification for spending significant money on her at all. I’d be embarrassed to publish how much I’ve spent over the last 3 years, on a car that’s worth nothing. However, human beings are only partially rational at the best of times and, after 10 years, the car feels as much a part of my life as my house, my garden etc, and I’m reluctant to change it. I find it comfortable, quiet, economical etc.


And, as a mechanic recently said to me, what would I replace it with? For any kind of reasonable cost? Since I retired to Ireland, I find myself making only short journeys, so electric would seem to be the way to go (with a home charger). Maybe a decent used Nissan Leaf with an owned battery.


However, I feel pretty clear about one thing: discovery of a rust problem would be the end of it. At the moment, with 185k on the clock, it’s reasonable to expect many of the things I’ve had to spend money on – brakes, suspension, exhaust, alternator, clutch, etc etc etc. But once the rust starts, unless you’re prepared to do what Brian did yourself (and I’m not), I’d flog it for whatever I could get for it I think.


Having said that, when I was 20 years younger, I might well have done what Brian did. At 65, I no longer have the drive or enthusiasm – others may feel different!

[hogweed]

Just for everybody’s amusement in these unhappy times, here’s an idea of what I’ve had to have fixed over the last 3 years or so. I won’t tell you what it all cost


Clutch, broken spring, bonnet dampers, airbag light, all brakes, thermostat, front hubs, broken springs, top mounts, all tyres, complete exhaust system, front suspension lower arms etc, drop links, diesel cooler, clutch slave cylinder again, rear upper arms, front shocks…


Fortunately the car seems to be relatively rust-free. About 8 years ago, I noticed some little stone chips on the rear o/s arch, and got one of these Chips Away types to come and do it. There was a lot of air sucked through teeth, culminating in my being advised that it was pointless as there would be a pinhole through to the inside, and nothing could be done as it would rusting away from behind.


It didn’t look like that to me. My car is black, so I scraped the tiny (couple of mm) areas of superficial rust off, and dabbed a tiny amount of smooth black Hammerite on with the point of a fine brush. Well, it may be rotting away from inside, but if so, there’s no sign, you can hardly see that it's been touched up – and I’ve had 8 years of use out of the car since…

[BRG75]

I have read this post with great interest, and would like to suggest the following.

The value of these cars is not exclusively financial; the worth of these cars can be expressed in terms of joy of ownership, and the difficulty of buying anything comparable, in the "new - 10 yrs old" market place.

So to practical matters :-

Brian's description of work that he has done, is enviable; but repeatable.

Once the world restores itself, there may be many young people, looking for any form of short term employment.

So jack the car up, nice and high. Take all morning if needs be, and get it well blocked.

Then manage / supervise a Brian based rust correction operation, geared to your own desires; and employ young(er) muscle and energy.

Regards

Mike

[EastPete]

For dealing with surface rust, after wire brushing I apply Jenolite rust converter. Not the cheapest, but it gives a good sealed surface that can then be over-painted and you do not need to wash off the excess, as you have to do with some other rust converters. I usually then go for Bondaprimer followed by chassis paint. Bondaprimer can apparently go straight onto lightly rusted surfaces after wire brushing, according to the instructions, but I have always neutralised the rust first.

[Teflon]

Originally Posted by BRG75

.........

The value of these cars is not exclusively financial; the worth of these cars can be expressed in terms of joy of ownership, ...........

That to me is the key. The cost of the engine work I'm having done at the moment is wholly disproportionate to the market value of the car. To be honest, it isn't even strictly necessary, however I'm glad it's being done.

If I were to sell up, I'd never recoup even a fraction of the money I've spent on her, so I never consider it from that angle. After all, I spend a fair chunk each year on a gym membership and wouldn't expect to get any of that back. I view my Rover ownership in the same light .

If it makes you happy, it's worth it, but if not, there are many other nice (and newer) cars available that would probably represent better value for money.

Cliff