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19th April 2017, 05:12 | #11 |
Posted a thing or two
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19th April 2017, 08:26 | #12 |
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The same ...the piston rod is a larger diameter to cope with the extra force... That's why you need a different servo
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19th April 2017, 08:36 | #13 |
Loves to post
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190 brakes
I recently discussed this conversion with Nick Bonthrone of Austin Garages who is incredibly knowledgeable about our cars. He had done a few for customers and his recommendation was original fitment pads (manufactured by ATE) together Pagid discs, but clearly there other possibilities that work well as shown in the replies above.
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19th April 2017, 12:05 | #14 |
I really should get out more.......
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No doubt I will get some sort of angry response but I do know what I'm talking about strangely enough.
Bigger brakes do not improve breaking this is a well documented myth. Slotted, grooved or drilled are unnecessary. To clarify we use our cars on the road and not on a race track. Even race teams don't necessarily use drilled or slotted discs okay some might but they will go through several sets a years and can afford to do so. All they do is dissipate heat. The other problem is that you can make your breaking worse and actually increase the stopping distance. However you can use different pads as these have come in leaps and bounds over the years.
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19th April 2017, 12:37 | #15 | |
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a larger friction surface, acting on a larger diameter disc will have a proportionally bigger rotational resistance... slots, holes or hooks help dissipate gasses that build up between the pad and the disc which helps to keep more of the brake surface in contact again increasing brake efficiency. Larger pots in the callipers means greater surface pressure, braided hoses balloon less and transmit more of the brake force to the piston, a larger master increases fluid transfer to the callipers and a larger servo means that fluid is at a higher pressure... all in all the change from standards to the above setup on my zt diesel auto was enormous...
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19th April 2017, 12:45 | #16 | |
I really should get out more.......
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They are not exactly a performance car, I know about the remaps and other changes but it isn't necessary. Aesthetically they do look nice and yes do fill a larger wheel. But I bet a well sorted standard car will still brake as same or even better.
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19th April 2017, 12:47 | #17 | |
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I also make the assumption road cars' brakes are designed to work better when cold,or cooler than a race/track car. track / race car would need them to work whilst warm/hot. So heat dissipation should not really be an issue. Extra frictional area will always show some sort of improvement (noticeable or not) In saying that and agreeing with klarzy, in real terms, if driving sensibly to the conditions, with a maintained car, the standard set up should be fine. However, if there is extra available, it cannot do harm to have it either Lol. That is of course on the proviso that the pad can be pressed firmly and evenly as before. Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
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19th April 2017, 12:52 | #18 | |
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and I put powerful brakes on my cars so I can stop better, not go faster having a kiddie run out in front of me one day set me down that path...
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19th April 2017, 14:33 | #19 | |
I really should get out more.......
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The standard brakes on the diesel are so poor, they are borderline dangerous. Try more than one heavy slowdown on an Autobahn, and its game over, they are utterly miserable. As for the post above saying bigger brakes are not better... lol... Dont even know where to start!! |
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4th May 2017, 13:34 | #20 | |
I really should get out more.......
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Missed out on a car run with my local club and a car show, not happy but hey ho! Traveling at a great speed will impact any cars braking unless you are driving a Formula 1 Racing Car. I have previously owned and driven a rather tasty MG ZTT which was definitely no slouch and the brakes were the standard set -up albeit they had new discs and pads. I never had a problem.
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