If its not one thing....

sylvester · 16th December 2019, 09:22

Following my post almost a month ago, my 75 tourer has been in and out of the garage trying to get the clutch/gearchange to work properly - eventually gearbox off again as the fault was blamed on a bad batch of slave cylinders.
The car, a 2003 diesel, was collected for me by my daughter on Saturday and whilst the clutch issue is hopefully fixed (so far so good!) it now appears that the heater doesn't work!
So, where's the connection? I Don't recall any mention of a need to drain the coolant when removing the gearbox!

Odd Job · 16th December 2019, 09:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by sylvester

Following my post almost a month ago, my 75 tourer has been in and out of the garage trying to get the clutch/gearchange to work properly - eventually gearbox off again as the fault was blamed on a bad batch of slave cylinders.
The car, a 2003 diesel, was collected for me by my daughter on Saturday and whilst the clutch issue is hopefully fixed (so far so good!) it now appears that the heater doesn't work!
So, where's the connection? I Don't recall any mention of a need to drain the coolant when removing the gearbox!

Is that right? The coolant has to be drained off?
I've just flushed and put new coolant in my car, and in the new year it'll be having a clutch. It's also a diesel!

Mike Noc · 16th December 2019, 10:53

Nope. No telling what some garages may do though.

Check and top up the level if needed - first sign of coolant low level in the diesel is the cabin gets cold, none of this overheating malarky!

COLVERT · 16th December 2019, 18:39

Is it the fan that's not working or just no heat ?

Comfortably Numb · 16th December 2019, 23:27

Does this car have thermostatically controlled servo motors on the cabin air mixer flaps? I have known this system to fail, or malfunction on other makes, notably my Audi A4, where the flaps stuck in the 'HOT' position, the servo(s) needing help from intake air at around 70mph before they would shut. It is also common on some '90s Mitsubishis with push-button climate control, where they stick in the 'COLD' position.

Arctic · 16th December 2019, 23:49

As above check the coolant level is correct as in the photo's below.

1

2

Run the car for about 5/10 miles get the engine temp up, do not have any A/C on this time, using the OBC number 19 then number 7 this will give you the true temperature of the engine coolant, hopefully this time of year you will find it to be around 83/85c it may get to 89 with some luck.

If you are only getting a reading of 78/81c or even below then you are in need of one of these below.

3

That should be inserted into the top hose.

4

Then fitted to the car you should then get the heat you require, all this is based on the fact that your car was not getting the heat before the clutch fitment.

sylvester · 18th December 2019, 11:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

all this is based on the fact that your car was not getting the heat before the clutch fitment.

The heater was fine before the gearbox was removed for the second time to change the faulty slave cylinder.
I'll get my hands on the car again next week so can investigate further if it hasn't sorted itself meantime whilst my daughter is using it!

16th December 2019, 09:22	#1
sylvester Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Rochester Kent Posts: 256 Thanks: 18 Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts	If its not one thing.... Following my post almost a month ago, my 75 tourer has been in and out of the garage trying to get the clutch/gearchange to work properly - eventually gearbox off again as the fault was blamed on a bad batch of slave cylinders. The car, a 2003 diesel, was collected for me by my daughter on Saturday and whilst the clutch issue is hopefully fixed (so far so good!) it now appears that the heater doesn't work! So, where's the connection? I Don't recall any mention of a need to drain the coolant when removing the gearbox!

16th December 2019, 23:49	#6
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,699 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	As above check the coolant level is correct as in the photo's below. 1 2 Run the car for about 5/10 miles get the engine temp up, do not have any A/C on this time, using the OBC number 19 then number 7 this will give you the true temperature of the engine coolant, hopefully this time of year you will find it to be around 83/85c it may get to 89 with some luck. If you are only getting a reading of 78/81c or even below then you are in need of one of these below. 3 That should be inserted into the top hose. 4 Then fitted to the car you should then get the heat you require, all this is based on the fact that your car was not getting the heat before the clutch fitment. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

16th December 2019, 10:53	#3
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Nope. No telling what some garages may do though. Check and top up the level if needed - first sign of coolant low level in the diesel is the cabin gets cold, none of this overheating malarky!

16th December 2019, 18:39	#4
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	Is it the fan that's not working or just no heat ?

16th December 2019, 23:27	#5
Comfortably Numb Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Penrith Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 165 Thanked 303 Times in 241 Posts	Does this car have thermostatically controlled servo motors on the cabin air mixer flaps? I have known this system to fail, or malfunction on other makes, notably my Audi A4, where the flaps stuck in the 'HOT' position, the servo(s) needing help from intake air at around 70mph before they would shut. It is also common on some '90s Mitsubishis with push-button climate control, where they stick in the 'COLD' position.