Front brake pad and disc change

Jackstevens98 · 30th January 2018, 06:24

I am going to do a full front end brake discs and pad change I believe I need to compress the calipers to do so and someone has told me that on some cars you have to have a special tool in order to do so? Does this apply to the 75?

Fusilier · 30th January 2018, 06:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackstevens98

I am going to do a full front end brake discs and pad change I believe I need to compress the calipers to do so and someone has told me that on some cars you have to have a special tool in order to do so? Does this apply to the 75?

Jack

No special tool required, a G Clamp and a small piece of wood on piston to compress

Stu

Avulon · 30th January 2018, 07:45

One tip for you - make sure the bleed nipples are free by soaking beforehand in penetrating oil. When it comes to compress the piston let the excess pressure out the bleed nipple rather than pushing it back through the hydraulic system.

suzublu · 30th January 2018, 07:58

And you'll need a 7mm allen key or socket to remove slider pins

myfirstrover · 30th January 2018, 10:29

You might want to think about getting some new machine screws for the brake discs , they can be very soft and the heads can chew up easily -Item no 4 on here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001569

Groundsman Willie · 30th January 2018, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avulon

One tip for you - make sure the bleed nipples are free by soaking beforehand in penetrating oil. When it comes to compress the piston let the excess pressure out the bleed nipple rather than pushing it back through the hydraulic system.

Interesting, I've never opened the bleed nipple when winding the piston back. Is there an advantage to this, other than less effort needed to push the piston back? Obviously assuming the reservoir won't be overfilled with the extra fluid backing into it

Avulon · 30th January 2018, 11:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by myfirstrover

You might want to think about getting some new machine screws for the brake discs , they can be very soft and the heads can chew up easily -Item no 4 on here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001569

I wouldn't bother with those - when I did mine I ordered some, they are pressed not machined and were unusable - the originals were better. In theory they aren't even needed as the disk is held on by the wheel and wheel bolts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Groundsman Willie

Interesting, I've never opened the bleed nipple when winding the piston back. Is there an advantage to this, other than less effort needed to push the piston back? Obviously assuming the reservoir won't be overfilled with the extra fluid backing into it

As you say prevents overflowing the master - also the fluid in the caliper is probably the worst fluid in the whole system due to it getting hotter and also more likely to take in contamination through the piston seals (if any at all is getting in). It's also much, much easier to compress the piston with the nipple open which helps keep it straight. Of course don't forget, check the piston is clean before compressing and bleed the brakes when it's all back together as well.

rustymotor · 30th January 2018, 13:04

I think the reason most don't open the bleed is they are often very hard to open and can and do break off, then it's a drill and tap job or exchange caliper

trikey · 30th January 2018, 13:19

No need for a piece of wood when pushing the piston back, just use the old brake pad before you remove it 😑

timspencer · 30th January 2018, 13:21

Did mine last week, you need a decent pair of grips or clamp to push the caliper pot back and some brought force.

As for the sliders? I removed the slider and the housing as one.

30th January 2018, 06:24	#1
Jackstevens98 Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: May 2017 Location: Sussex Posts: 354 Thanks: 41 Thanked 50 Times in 35 Posts	Front brake pad and disc change I am going to do a full front end brake discs and pad change I believe I need to compress the calipers to do so and someone has told me that on some cars you have to have a special tool in order to do so? Does this apply to the 75?

30th January 2018, 07:45	#3
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	One tip for you - make sure the bleed nipples are free by soaking beforehand in penetrating oil. When it comes to compress the piston let the excess pressure out the bleed nipple rather than pushing it back through the hydraulic system. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

30th January 2018, 13:19	#9
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,771 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	No need for a piece of wood when pushing the piston back, just use the old brake pad before you remove it 😑 __________________ Lest we forget..

30th January 2018, 07:58	#4
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,920 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	And you'll need a 7mm allen key or socket to remove slider pins

30th January 2018, 10:29	#5
myfirstrover Posted a thing or two Rover 75 2.0 cdi Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 1,896 Thanks: 401 Thanked 448 Times in 303 Posts	You might want to think about getting some new machine screws for the brake discs , they can be very soft and the heads can chew up easily -Item no 4 on here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001569

30th January 2018, 13:04	#8
rustymotor Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017 Location: Hull Posts: 1,848 Thanks: 216 Thanked 432 Times in 340 Posts	I think the reason most don't open the bleed is they are often very hard to open and can and do break off, then it's a drill and tap job or exchange caliper

30th January 2018, 13:21	#10
timspencer Gets stuck in MG ZTT Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: BURTON ON TRENT Posts: 854 Thanks: 125 Thanked 283 Times in 153 Posts	Did mine last week, you need a decent pair of grips or clamp to push the caliper pot back and some brought force. As for the sliders? I removed the slider and the housing as one.