T4 session - Page 2

marinabrian · 26th August 2013, 22:21

If you suspect leakback, a quick and dirty method is to nip the spill of pipe with a pair of pliers whilst an assistant cranks the car.
If it fires up, release the pliers quickly, of you'll smell of diesel for ages

HTH
Brian

Canon · 30th August 2013, 12:30

Took the car to a mate of a mates garage and he ran a diagnostic check which brought back the following errors

P3505 Glow System
P1260 Delivery fuel pressure monitoring

Any suggestions?

sworks · 30th August 2013, 16:11

I have p1260 and have had it for a while, mines a low pressure code but the car runs ok even under load

I'm letting it develop as I only have the one pump set up and I dont want to start changing parts for fun. I'm not sure at what point the code returns after its cleared as yet as the car runs ok. Did you have a leak back done or as Brian suggested clamp the return pipes?

marinabrian · 30th August 2013, 16:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canon

Took the car to a mate of a mates garage and he ran a diagnostic check which brought back the following errors

P3505 Glow System
P1260 Delivery fuel pressure monitoring

Any suggestions?

Glow plug relay "incorrect state", and pre delivery pressure too low for starting.
Get the plenums checked, and Jules can sort you if Russ is too busy

Brian

James.uk · 30th August 2013, 16:47

What happened to Keith at Ellsmere? doe he still do T4 stuff?
...

J1MBO · 30th August 2013, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by James.uk

What happened to Keith at Ellsmere? doe he still do T4 stuff?
...

Afaik he's still got a T4 but stopped doing diagnostics for others, not seen him for years though.

fusilier50 · 15th September 2013, 17:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canon

Took the car to a mate of a mates garage and he ran a diagnostic check which brought back the following errors

P3505 Glow System
P1260 Delivery fuel pressure monitoring

Any suggestions?

What is this Glow System? i have had it appearing intermittently over the last few weeks.

Canon · 12th October 2013, 21:08

I have now gotten two injectors but havent had the time to get them fitted
Anyway as i was only getting a few attempts at starting the car before the batterry died, i decided to replace the battery so it would be okay for over the winter and ive now found that the car starts with no hesitation when cold, warm and very hot ???
Perhaps others out there having problems with hot starts can put the battery onto the check list
Btw the voltage on the old battery was reading 12.5v

andyg2011 · 12th October 2013, 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canon

I have now gotten two injectors but havent had the time to get them fitted
Anyway as i was only getting a few attempts at starting the car before the batterry died, i decided to replace the battery so it would be okay for over the winter and ive now found that the car starts with no hesitation when cold, warm and very hot ???
Perhaps others out there having problems with hot starts can put the battery onto the check list
Btw the voltage on the old battery was reading 12.5v

Glad to see you got it sort

Trevor1975 · 12th October 2013, 21:28

Sometimes disconnecting the battery can reset electrical issues.

Careful with changing injectors, they are best kept as a matched balanced set.

A bit of injector cleaner wouldn't hurt if you haven't already and I've heard fotre is good.

Good luck with it!!!

30th August 2013, 12:30	#12
Canon Gets stuck in 75 Connie Auto CDTi SE Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Liverpool Posts: 923 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Update Took the car to a mate of a mates garage and he ran a diagnostic check which brought back the following errors P3505 Glow System P1260 Delivery fuel pressure monitoring Any suggestions? __________________ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs

30th August 2013, 16:11	#13
sworks Been absent for a while… Rover 75 Tourer, Classic mini Cooper S, Abarth 595 competizione, MG TF and a Hyundai Tucson PHEV Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Cumbria Posts: 13,065 Thanks: 1,033 Thanked 1,686 Times in 1,040 Posts	I have p1260 and have had it for a while, mines a low pressure code but the car runs ok even under load I'm letting it develop as I only have the one pump set up and I dont want to start changing parts for fun. I'm not sure at what point the code returns after its cleared as yet as the car runs ok. Did you have a leak back done or as Brian suggested clamp the return pipes? __________________ ................................................. 'Marmite' Possibly one of the most famous 75 tourers produced! left the production line as the last of only Three Rover 75 tourers produced in Trophy Yellow. 48 hours later Longbridge closed. The last sold ordered 75 Tourer. Paid for by the Phoenix Four and handed over by John Towers to the Warwickshire Northampton Air ambulance service as a Rapid Response vehicle Last edited by sworks; 30th August 2013 at 19:51..

12th October 2013, 21:08	#18
Canon Gets stuck in 75 Connie Auto CDTi SE Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Liverpool Posts: 923 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Update I have now gotten two injectors but havent had the time to get them fitted Anyway as i was only getting a few attempts at starting the car before the batterry died, i decided to replace the battery so it would be okay for over the winter and ive now found that the car starts with no hesitation when cold, warm and very hot ??? Perhaps others out there having problems with hot starts can put the battery onto the check list Btw the voltage on the old battery was reading 12.5v __________________ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...1f7d5496b4.jpg Mods done: Towbar - EGR replaced with SS straight pipe - Synergy 2 - Aircon resistor replaced with JMA - Walnut and Leather Steering Wheel - Walnut Hand Brake and Walnut Auto Gear Stick - Walnut Dash - Sean's DD Unit with DVBT - 2.0 CDT Torpedos - Boot Badge and mk1 Chrome Plinth - D Pillars - Union Alloys - X-Power Upgrade Slowly adding pre project bits and bobs

12th October 2013, 21:28	#20
Trevor1975 Gets stuck in Rover 75 saloon cdt club SE 1999 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Gloucester Posts: 744 Thanks: 142 Thanked 67 Times in 48 Posts	Sometimes disconnecting the battery can reset electrical issues. Careful with changing injectors, they are best kept as a matched balanced set. A bit of injector cleaner wouldn't hurt if you haven't already and I've heard fotre is good. Good luck with it!!! __________________ Had a 1999 CDT Club SE - Sandstone Leather interior, EGR bypass, 160 remap, 21psi boost, inline thermostat housing ... Sold...

26th August 2013, 22:21	#11
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	If you suspect leakback, a quick and dirty method is to nip the spill of pipe with a pair of pliers whilst an assistant cranks the car. If it fires up, release the pliers quickly, of you'll smell of diesel for ages HTH Brian

30th August 2013, 16:47	#15
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	What happened to Keith at Ellsmere? doe he still do T4 stuff? ...