Possible Cure for Dodgy Handbrake..

[James_Death]

Now hand brake... I had followed the guide for adjustment but still handbrake failed mot but i think i found the reason... please read on...

What a kerfuffle that was, i know it says take seats out to remove centre console but i did it without.

However i have had seats out before to replace the seats and console, and its easy. I would if i was you especially to make it easier to get the carpet back to unscrew the lower hand brake securing bolt...

So console out and cut along the carpet behind the handbrake to get into the centre cable connector to release the clip and remove the handbrake.
Not yet cut in the below picture but cut between the back of the handbrake and the open piece that shows the centre console rear securing bolt holes.



Now the handbrake is out i measured the new cable and the old... Old on the left side..



Exactly the same length apart from the base of the shoulder been shorter on the new one but makes no difference as both the thread and overall length the same... so no stretch as others have said..

However the new handbrake came with the securing plate that connects to the rear handbrake cables and my old one looked longer in situ.

Now no matter how hard i tried to uncouple the rear cables it was apparent i would need to remove the rear seat the c pillar trims or whatever in order to lift the carpet to get to the bolts that secured the steel plate over the bracket. This is the bracket that the rear of the centre console fastens to.

So carpet lifted and plate removed...



Now easy to unfasten and remove ready for the new one...
This is where it gets interesting... the general consensus is the cables dont stretch, well the connecting plate for the centre cable to rear cables appears too....





The easy route of just winding in the adjuster below the handbrake has lifted the curved metal and so as it lifts the centre cable just gets slacker.

Replaced with the new and all re attached...



Handbrake centre cable adjusted to 25mm...



Now put on 2 clicks and adjusted on the rear wheel adjusters through a wheel bolt hole... After some faffing with how much wind on and grip whether on 1 click or 2 clicks... I wanted to make sure my wheels turned with no drag when handbrake off.

So settled on been able to move the drum and disc with firm pressure on 2 clicks.

This resulted with a solid brake at 4 clicks. Just adjust to what you feel is good for you.

So in conclusion for me when i had the hand brake on 2 clicks and fully tightened up on the drums my car failed the mot.

I replaced the whole handbrake unit not knowing if any centre cable stretch etc and the cable was not in stock.
However on replacement the cable was fine... but the actual coupling for the centre cable to the rear cables could have been longer of old but to my eyes it has been distorted by over zealous handbrake adjustment resulting in some 15mm extra length over the new replacement.

So worth consideration if you are having the handbrake woes even after following the great guide on here.

Hope i have helped...

[SD1too]

An excellent investigation James. Perhaps you have solved the long standing problems with handbrake adjustment.

Simon.

[Trophy Blue Tourer]

Yes Well Done James!!

I think we have the answer to the "too long inner cables" issue right here!!

I have posted on your other thread about a suggested repair/cure perhaps you or others could let me have your thoughts as I at least will be needing to sort this prior to the next MOT!!

Many thanks!!

Andy

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by Trophy Blue Tourer

Yes Well Done James!!

I think we have the answer to the "too long inner cables" issue right here!!

I have posted on your other thread about a suggested repair/cure perhaps you or others could let me have your thoughts as I at least will be needing to sort this prior to the next MOT!!

Many thanks!!

Andy

It might well be the cause, but what do we do about it?

[stocktake]

What a stupid set up! does anyone have a part number for the new part?. Would it be possible to bend the top half of the bar down and weld it to the lower part, this would stop it being able to be pulled round.

[James_Death]

I was looking to replace the centre cable but was out of stock and others say this part is out of stock... however i got the whole handbrake unit so had the lot on...

[Greeners]

here you go how to do it properly

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by Greeners

here you go how to do it properly

Those are not the settings I use -

1. I slack off at the nut

2. Take adjuster at the hub up to the point of binding

3. Give the lever a pull up to make sure the shoe is properly located

4. If the shoe is binding just ease it back enough to clear.

5. Once both hubs are done, adjust the nut so the handbrake is starting to work at the first click.

2 & 3 might need to be repeated a couple of times, before moving onto 4.

[pab]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Those are not the settings I use -

1. I slack off at the nut

2. Take adjuster at the hub up to the point of binding

3. Give the lever a pull up to make sure the shoe is properly located

4. If the shoe is binding just ease it back enough to clear.

5. Once both hubs are done, adjust the nut so the handbrake is starting to work at the first click.

2 & 3 might need to be repeated a couple of times, before moving onto 4.

Perhaps you would like to try your method on my car,obviously i would be doing the task under your supervision

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by pab

Perhaps you would like to try your method on my car,obviously i would be doing the task under your supervision

Certainly

..But I would suggest doing the compensator mod first, if you have not done it already - or perhaps we could combine the two jobs into one?

If your insurance covers it, take mine for a run to see how well my handbrake works perhaps. Have you got the facilities down there (apart from the compensator welding)? Maybe this weekend?