75 CDTi - Correct replacement clutch

JohnFol · 11th January 2007, 12:00

I've read quite a few threads about the original clutch friction plate design and how it has changed over the years. For example the early ones suffered from not having enough lead, and later ones were changed to springless, only to be reverted back to sprung.

I have a 75k CDTi and based on the occasional noise I believe I have the original. Chances are it will only have a few years left in it. When it does go I want to make sure I get the right plate, and not an old part with all the known symptoms.

So my question is, when it fails on the night before Good Friday and I have to get a replacement in a hurry, what part number should I get?

Also, are OEM versions worth considering?

11th January 2007, 12:00	#1
JohnFol Gets stuck in 75 Conn SE - XVWY* Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Reading Posts: 564 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	75 CDTi - Correct replacement clutch I've read quite a few threads about the original clutch friction plate design and how it has changed over the years. For example the early ones suffered from not having enough lead, and later ones were changed to springless, only to be reverted back to sprung. I have a 75k CDTi and based on the occasional noise I believe I have the original. Chances are it will only have a few years left in it. When it does go I want to make sure I get the right plate, and not an old part with all the known symptoms. So my question is, when it fails on the night before Good Friday and I have to get a replacement in a hurry, what part number should I get? Also, are OEM versions worth considering?