Rover 75 'sticky' central locking

M47Rman · 10th November 2006, 12:47

Hi all
Just noticed a problem on my 2001 v6 Conn, with the central locking. When I unlock the car, one press of the plip unlocks just the drivers door, and a further press unlocks all of the other doors - most of the time! Sometimes the right hand rear door does not unlock, and the sill button remains down. However a further press of the plip then unlocks this door also. I have also noticed that when locking, the sill button on this door drops more slowly than the others. Are these problems an indication of imminent failure, or is a little penetrating oil required in a particular place? Anyone had a similar problem or got any thoughts?
Thanks
Andy

Mike · 10th November 2006, 13:00

The first 'problem' you describe is actually a programmed setting. Named anti -hijack it means that when you first unlock only the drivers door opens - so no one can jump in the car from another door! The dealer software Testbook can turn this and a myriad of other things off and on.

The other issue is likely to be a sticking lock assembly. WD40 et al through the door and handle gaps to cover the mechanism can help. If that doesn't sort it then it's best to get the mechanism sorted/changed by a mechanic (or DIY) because there are instances of some doors jamming completely and then the door card has to be ripped out to get it sorted

hth

Mike

M47Rman · 10th November 2006, 13:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

The first 'problem' you describe is actually a programmed setting. Named anti -hijack it means that when you first unlock only the drivers door opens - so no one can jump in the car from another door! The dealer software Testbook can turn this and a myriad of other things off and on.

The other issue is likely to be a sticking lock assembly. WD40 et al through the door and handle gaps to cover the mechanism can help. If that doesn't sort it then it's best to get the mechanism sorted/changed by a mechanic (or DIY) because there are instances of some doors jamming completely and then the door card has to be ripped out to get it sorted

hth

Mike

Hi Mike
thanks for that. Sorry if I suggested the staggered unlocking was a problem. I know about that bit! Sounds as though I need to get the WD 40 out this weekend for the real problem. Any idea (if it comes to that) how much a new lock assembly goes for?
Andy

David3807 · 10th November 2006, 15:30

The one for my drivers door was about £65 + VAT but that was an ex dealer price about two months ago.

May be cheaper at Rimmers

driverjgp · 10th November 2006, 19:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by M47Rman

Hi all
Just noticed a problem on my 2001 v6 Conn, with the central locking. When I unlock the car, one press of the plip unlocks just the drivers door, and a further press unlocks all of the other doors - most of the time! Sometimes the right hand rear door does not unlock, and the sill button remains down. However a further press of the plip then unlocks this door also. I have also noticed that when locking, the sill button on this door drops more slowly than the others. Are these problems an indication of imminent failure, or is a little penetrating oil required in a particular place? Anyone had a similar problem or got any thoughts?
Thanks
Andy

Funny that, my passengers door is like that, mine is still under warranty so I will get round to getting it done.

Simon · 10th November 2006, 20:53

There was a thread over on the mg-rover.org forums about this very problem

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=157401

If you check this link above and follow all the other links detailed within it you'll find lots of usefull info about the door mechanisms etc.

Hope this helps too!

Keith · 10th November 2006, 22:51

The ones in the back doors are easy to remove
If you have the time I would take both out and swap them over to test if you have a lazy lock or a control fault.

If the unit, then a brand new replacement was £45 for the passenger front in my ztt so I expect the rears to be similar.

if a control fault you may need a replacement BCU and that is a dealer job as it needs to go on Testbook afterwards.

10th November 2006, 12:47	#1
M47Rman Avid contributor 2001 Rover 75 saloon 2.5 KV6 Conn SE Automatic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Peterborough Posts: 186 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Rover 75 'sticky' central locking Hi all Just noticed a problem on my 2001 v6 Conn, with the central locking. When I unlock the car, one press of the plip unlocks just the drivers door, and a further press unlocks all of the other doors - most of the time! Sometimes the right hand rear door does not unlock, and the sill button remains down. However a further press of the plip then unlocks this door also. I have also noticed that when locking, the sill button on this door drops more slowly than the others. Are these problems an indication of imminent failure, or is a little penetrating oil required in a particular place? Anyone had a similar problem or got any thoughts? Thanks Andy

10th November 2006, 13:00	#2
Mike This is my second home Rover 75 V8 Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 3,448 Thanks: 0 Thanked 206 Times in 32 Posts	The first 'problem' you describe is actually a programmed setting. Named anti -hijack it means that when you first unlock only the drivers door opens - so no one can jump in the car from another door! The dealer software Testbook can turn this and a myriad of other things off and on. The other issue is likely to be a sticking lock assembly. WD40 et al through the door and handle gaps to cover the mechanism can help. If that doesn't sort it then it's best to get the mechanism sorted/changed by a mechanic (or DIY) because there are instances of some doors jamming completely and then the door card has to be ripped out to get it sorted hth Mike __________________ Mike [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

10th November 2006, 15:30	#4
David3807 Posted a thing or two 2002 R75 Conn SE 2.5l Auto Tourer, 2001 R75 Conn SE 2.5 Auto Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Gravesend Posts: 1,897 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	The one for my drivers door was about £65 + VAT but that was an ex dealer price about two months ago. May be cheaper at Rimmers

10th November 2006, 20:53	#6
Simon Banned - Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: - Posts: 10,318 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	There was a thread over on the mg-rover.org forums about this very problem http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=157401 If you check this link above and follow all the other links detailed within it you'll find lots of usefull info about the door mechanisms etc. Hope this helps too!

10th November 2006, 22:51	#7
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	The ones in the back doors are easy to remove If you have the time I would take both out and swap them over to test if you have a lazy lock or a control fault. If the unit, then a brand new replacement was £45 for the passenger front in my ztt so I expect the rears to be similar. if a control fault you may need a replacement BCU and that is a dealer job as it needs to go on Testbook afterwards.