Rust warning - drain tube exit points

[Blink]

Originally Posted by genpk

i reckon A small amount of oil in the bottom of the plenum every so often would fix that rust easily.

But that would mean taking the scuttle off every time you smeared the oil on. Plus you'd have to oil the whole of the lower plenum floors because they slope downwards and the rubber tubes don't exit at the lowest point. The RH tube hole and the big steering joint hole are linked so any water trapped in the RH lower plenum will flow into the double skin - like this.

[Saga Lout]

Originally Posted by Blink

But that would mean taking the scuttle off every time you smeared the oil on. Plus you'd have to oil the whole of the lower plenum floors because they slope downwards and the rubber tubes don't exit at the lowest point. The RH tube hole and the big steering joint hole are linked so any water trapped in the RH lower plenum will flow into the double skin - like this.

I wonder if a flared copper pipe could be soldered into position after the metal is cleaned? It would do away with the rubber seal and be less likely to have any future leaks.

[genpk]

if you put a bit of grease on the end of something that will reach down to the bottom of the plenum and rub in around the hole you will only need to lift the scuttle panel up a little bit without removing it.
That would stay in place for long time i would think and sort the issue.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Saga Lout

I wonder if a flared copper pipe could be soldered into position after the metal is cleaned? It would do away with the rubber seal and be less likely to have any future leaks.

Yes, a flared pipe soldered into the upper plenum floor would do the trick - but you'd have to take the servo out to do it.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by genpk

if you put a bit of grease on the end of something that will reach down to the bottom of the plenum and rub in around the hole you will only need to lift the scuttle panel up a little bit without removing it.

You won't be able to reach either hole in the upper plenum floor just by lifting the scuttle a little bit.

This is the view along the plenum (taken by leaning right in over the left wing) with the scuttle, wiper gear and all three closing panels removed. The RH drain tube is at the far end underneath the servo - it's impossible to get anything rigid down the hole with the servo still there.

[Blink]

PS. The above pic was taken after I washed the entire area with detergent and hosed away all the muck with mains water.

This is during the 2nd or 3rd lot of detergent before hosing it all down towards the drain tubes. 90% of the muck ended up under the servo and stayed there until I blasted it right across to the LH tube.



This is the LH & centre (hours later!) - pollen filter removed, ECU lying on top of intake manifold.

[Blink]

Another problem - what to do with the cracked factory sealant (seam sealer?).


LH side cracks




This piece has lifted away (or it left the factory like that )




RH side crack




More cracks on RH

[TriumphStag]

Since you have it that far apart, some tiger seal in those cracks should sort things.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by TriumphStag

Since you have it that far apart, some tiger seal in those cracks should sort things.

Would Tiger Seal be a better bet than Captain Tolley's?

(Maybe Tolley's would flow into the smaller cracks a bit better - I don't know because I've never used it )

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

Would Tiger Seal be a better bet than Captain Tolley's?(Maybe Tolley's would flow into the smaller cracks a bit better)

Captain Tolley's fixer seals cracks that are narrow enough for capillary action to bridge the gap. This basically means little more than hairline cracks, I'm sure it dies a good job with those. However, it's only a low viscosity PVA emulsion that must dry completely by evaporatio to create a seal, so it's best used in warm weather. I've never looked at Tiger Seal. If it's a similar product and principle, the same thing applies. Looking at your split sealing strip, I'd say something injected into the gap using a cartridge/gun might be best. Maybe a silicone sealant?



TC