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Old 27th March 2016, 10:55   #1
trebor
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Default " How To " Replace the Rear Door Inner Waist Seal

The main problem with this how to will be sourcing the parts as Rimmers have no stock, so if any other member can find stock anywhere please post and I will include it in the " How To".

They are also likely to be expensive as the front door seals are in stock at Rimmers but cost approx £40 each side. ( I have not looked at the possibility that the front seals can be modified for the rear doors )

Replacement of this rear seal is likely to be a problem we all face sooner or later, mine is a Facelift built in 2004 used in the pictures and you will see what lurks beneath the trim on one of the later cars built.

It may be worth including these seals on the scrapyard runs, but you will probably be very lucky to find one without any damage and would have to take them off very carefully if they are going to be reused.



































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Old 27th March 2016, 11:01   #2
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I have one of those nasty seals in exactly the same spot.

Thanks for the How To
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Old 27th March 2016, 12:02   #3
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I was wondering wether you were referring to the tourer when you mentioned "lwb", as the part numbers ELT100060 & ELT100070 didn't match up.
Just checked ELT100260 & ELT100270, listed for the tourer which are also out of stock at rimmers.😢
Nice "how to" by the way.😄.
Ps. Is there any obvious way the old waist seals could be refurbed?
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Old 27th March 2016, 17:07   #4
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Default

Ps. Is there any obvious way the old waist seals could be refurbed?[/QUOTE]


It raises a few interesting questions and what we need is more members to come forward and let us know if they have the problem or not

Mine is a project drive car, is it related to that in any way ?

If your seals are in good condition then they could be removed and coated with some rust preventative I guess but how many will be in good condition ?

Mine was so rusted through the end broke off so no chance of refurbing that and it was rotten towards the back end of the door where the door lock button is with the rest not too bad

Water must be getting inside the window in that specific area over time either that or something is going on inside the door we are not aware of, oxidisation ?

It's basically metal covered in rubber trim so not too difficult to manufacture using one as a template I would have thought if you have the necessary skills

Prevention is the best way to go if it's not to late, especially given the cost of each one at around £40 and that's assuming you can find stock of course
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Old 25th August 2017, 10:50   #5
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Thank you so much for cutting the ELT000060 to size tip! Brilliant. You've got me out of a very rusty problem ��
Very best regards
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Old 25th August 2017, 21:45   #6
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I think that the problem is that the wrong type of dissimilar metals have been used and a corrosion cell is set-up. If possible, try to prevent the spring clips penetrating the rubber and connecting with the aluminium.

Also, I replaced one of the rear door seals and repaired the other side with what I had left over. There is a cut-line in the repaired side but it is not noticeable. Make the join in the middle of a clip to hold the parts together. This way, even partially corroded seals can be cut-back and re-used.
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Old 25th August 2017, 22:01   #7
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There was a thread about this very problem a few months ago. From what I remember Bill is correct. It was discovered that when fitting the new trim just put some insulation tape between the trim and the metal. This then prevents future corrosion.
Very good how to though
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Old 26th September 2017, 20:52   #8
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Hi, I have exactly the same issue on both rear seals.
Initial thoughts were it was due to 'summer heat' distorting the rubber seal but now accept it is a corrosion problem.
Anyway, is there an update on the best (and cheapest) place to purchase replacements, or some other 'easy' fix?
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Old 27th September 2017, 08:19   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevie25 View Post
Hi, I have exactly the same issue on both rear seals.
Initial thoughts were it was due to 'summer heat' distorting the rubber seal but now accept it is a corrosion problem.
Anyway, is there an update on the best (and cheapest) place to purchase replacements, or some other 'easy' fix?
The X-Part parts finder shows ELT000070 and ELT000060 as being available and orderable from 'your X-part Distributer'. In fact there is one of ELT00201 still shown as available with a German dealer.

I do note that my 2000 and 2003 V6's do not have the problem, only the later (2005) V8! Maybe something changed in construction or material around facelift time? Older scrapyard "stock" could possibly still be intact?

David Bytheway

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Old 29th October 2017, 09:45   #10
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I have an 04 plate tourer with the problem
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