Under Bonnet Fuel Pump Diesel CDT/i For Sale

[Jules]

Back in stock

We have a small qty of these genuine Under Bonnet Pumps. Part No WQB100482 OEM Rover boxed

Sometimes known as:
The Secondary Pump
Pump-fuel remote mounting
Inline Pump
UB Pump

Buy a cheaper alternative at your peril.
These are good for 100k miles
Unbranded copies from china (which a very noisy) may last a year if you're lucky!






Price £129 + £5.50 PP
Payment Details
All major Cards accepted, cheque by post, Bank Transfer using IBAN BIC codes, or Paypal to [email protected]
International Buyers welcome
Tel 01492 535020
Mob 07831 457011

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Jules

We have a small qty of these Under Bonnet Pumps. Equates to Part No WQB100482 OEM

Sometimes known as:
The Secondary Pump
Pump-fuel remote mounting
Inline Pump
UB Pump

(many fitted and tested by myself so I know they are a good equivalent OEM quality replacement)




Price £119 + £4.50 PP
Payment Details
All major Cards accepted, cheque by post, Bank Transfer using IBAN BIC codes, or Paypal to [email protected]
International Buyers welcome
Tel 01492 535020
Mob 07831 457011--

Have you still got any of these left Jules? Mine let me down today making a funny noise, reckon I need one ready.

[Jules]

Hi David

Both front and rear pumps are currently out of stock as we still seek pattern pumps which last as well as OEM and which don't leak!

The change in front pump sound may in fact be due to intank pump failure.


To be sure intank has failed find a very quiet area to do the following DIY test:

Disconnect the front pump (release small tab with small screw driver and pull the 2 wire black plug off) Turn ignition on and listen at rear for intank high pitched whirring noise (very faint) This can be heard either by listening with filler cap off, or by listening underneath RH of car by fuel tank.


If nothing heard this proves Intank pump is duff or possibly a fractured pipe within the tank.
(Power to both pumps is applied for 50 seconds if engine isn't started , via Relay behind glove box)

Another symptom of intank failure is car will suffer fuel starvation when guage approaches 1/4 mark.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Jules

Hi David

Both front and rear pumps are currently out of stock as we still seek pattern pumps which last as well as OEM and which don't leak!

The change in front pump sound may in fact be due to intank pump failure.


To be sure intank has failed find a very quiet area to do the following DIY test:

Disconnect the front pump (release small tab with small screw driver and pull the 2 wire black plug off) Turn ignition on and listen at rear for intank high pitched whirring noise (very faint) This can be heard either by listening with filler cap off, or by listening underneath RH of car by fuel tank.


If nothing heard this proves Intank pump is duff or possibly a fractured pipe within the tank.
(Power to both pumps is applied for 50 seconds if engine isn't started , via Relay behind glove box)

Another symptom of intank failure is car will suffer fuel starvation when guage approaches 1/4 mark.

Thanks for the update Jules, but it was in fact the UBP that stopped pumping because it wasn't running at all, then I started to pull the connector off, and when it was half way off it started running although noisily. This happened twice after the car failed to start, but then I read a thread about using vaseline on the terminals which so far has worked. Maybe the change in noise was because it wasn't getting a full 12v. It just sounded a bit like there was a bearing breaking up inside it, but its ok again now. Have you ever ripped one apart to see why they fail?

[Jules]

Yes if you look in my picture gallery . (approx 5 years ago)
I cut one in half to find brush & commentator wear !
The double screw helix assy could wear reducing the pressure together with the bearings.

Since 1999 it is suspected lubricants in the fuel have been reduced.
(the great debate of the addition of 2 stroke oil by members etc !)

What we need is hard evidence of a pump lasting well over 150k miles to tell whether lubricants are effective or not

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Jules

Yes if you look in my picture gallery . (approx 5 years ago)
I cut one in half to find brush & commentator wear !
The double screw helix assy could wear reducing the pressure together with the bearings.

Since 1999 it is suspected lubricants in the fuel have been reduced.
(the great debate of the addition of 2 stroke oil by members etc !)

What we need is hard evidence of a pump lasting well over 150k miles to tell whether lubricants are effective or not

Well for the record mine has done 156k but sounds like may be nearing the end. Its done nearly all of it on supermarket fuel until i recently discovered shell makes it run better. If it is commutator and brush wear it could explain why tugging on the connector made it spring in to life. I may be lucky and its just a contact issue but probably wont last. In tank pump still working fine can hear it running and usually dont fill up till the light comes on

[Jules]

It does seem a complete lottery.
We have replaced some OEM pumps as early as 50k miles.
(my sister's 2001 CDT tourer being one of them)