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Old 27th July 2016, 13:13   #91
klarzy
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I fit new nipples... they are only a quid or so each...
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Old 27th July 2016, 14:21   #92
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Originally Posted by klarzy View Post
I fit new nipples... they are only a quid or so each...
it would have been something that never occurred to me to do. except I am refurbishing calipers. any other time, I have left it in the hands of a mechanic.

but something I noticed when checking my rears, is the crustiness of the piston. if that was to reach the seal, it would mean it could be fluid tight, but maybe not air tight?
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Old 27th July 2016, 14:58   #93
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yep... Just refurbed my 190 calipers and new seals and pistons were part of that...getting the bellow seal/dust seal in right and having some hydraulic grease behind it to jeep joss out is a must...
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Old 5th February 2018, 13:21   #94
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Just been reading this thread for the first time and would make a couple of observations:-
I had one corroded pipe to the rear on my 75 fail when the ABS was invoked and ended up with no brakes at all, which shouldn't happen as its a split system . Also on a BMW bike with ABS I relate the following:-
I had a near catastrophic situation with the ABS on my BMW motorbike and would recommend doing a full fluid change including the modulator . Normal brakes split front and rear , not combined. Front brake lever worked firmly and excellent braking . I had previously changed the fluid when replacing the brake pads, with clear fresh fluid flushed all through. When I was selling the bike a potential purchaser asked if the ABS actually worked. Although all the start up light check had always gone through without a fault. I had never invoked it on the road. I went out and tried it, braked hard and as soon as ABS operated, lever came straight back to the bars and braking effort dropped to virtually nothing. I re-bled the brake and it was full of dirty fluid and air. I cleared it out, invoked the ABS again , two or three times and re-bled until all clear fluid, and the brakes were again solid both with or without ABS invoked. I believe over 12 years the main fluid had been changed but not in the modulator . I am aware there are all different variations employed by different companies but these two issues makes me believe ordinary bleeding without exercising the ABS modulator can leave air /or dirty fluid in the system
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Old 7th February 2018, 22:22   #95
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Appologies for not reading this whole thread through, but one thing I am really carefull of when bleeding brakes - I never pump the pedal fully, the reason being that the master cylinder lower section is never swept by the piston - even in an emmergency stop the pedal rarely goes lower than half way. If you bleed in the time-honoured way, its likey that this action will at least contaminate the seals with rust, at worst wipe it out. Result- new MC required.
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Old 9th February 2018, 00:28   #96
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I fitted a new (copper) front brake pipe without doing any bleeding.
Method -
check unions at both ends will undo without difficulty
position new pipe alongside one to be replaced
undo old pipe from ABS actuator and fit new
disconnect old pipe from flexy to caliper
wait until brake fluid drips from end of new pipe, then connect to flexy
finally remove old pipe and fit new on into clips.

I now have the other side to do by a modification of the above method because the pipe connection to the flexy is seized. I'll have to remove the flexy from the caliper to remove the seized union, but when refitted. back-fill it with fluid by pushing back the caliper piston. The pipe will need to be cut of course, but will be squeezed up to stop fluid loss.
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Old 11th February 2018, 20:03   #97
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Originally Posted by geofftl1000r View Post
My only Ford was an XR3i back when they were a fast car... 100K miles and only 2 things ever went wrong. Master cylinder gave up the ghost and the car refused to start once. Was the only year I have ever had the AA and he new exactly what it was. Cleaned two contacts on a relay, fuel pump came back to life.

We all know that fluids don't compress so where is it going? Leaking past the master cylinder seals? Or finding somewhere to hide in the ABS pump?
Mine now seems fine but both my ABS pump and master cylinder have been replaced so no idea which was causing it.
If the fluid leaks past the servo seals it gets burnt in the engine. I had it happen on my SD1 3.5 v8. The smoke was quite visible and smelt very acrid.
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Old 19th September 2019, 22:18   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jules View Post
I use my Sealy sump pump regularly to bleed brakes and clutches never had a problem!!
Sucking it out from the bleed nipple end gets all the air out in one go WITHOUT pressing any pedals. One man job too.

Replaced an ABS modulator recently (so a full drain down)
Tried it without T4 (just as an experiment) and pedal rock solid afterwards

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Hello Jules.

I need to replace the ABS modulator on one of my 190's. Where you able to confirm using the T4 that this vacuum method is suitable to bleed both circuits in the modulator please, or is it still necessary to use the T4 when fitting a new modulator?

Many thanks.

Ben.

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Old 20th September 2019, 07:46   #99
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If the fluid leaks past the servo seals it gets burnt in the engine. I had it happen on my SD1 3.5 v8. The smoke was quite visible and smelt very acrid.
That may only happen in Petrol engines.
Diesels have their own mechanically driven vacuum pump
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Old 22nd September 2019, 10:50   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Typhoon190 View Post
Hello Jules.

I need to replace the ABS modulator on one of my 190's. Where you able to confirm using the T4 that this vacuum method is suitable to bleed both circuits in the modulator please, or is it still necessary to use the T4 when fitting a new modulator?

Many thanks.

Ben.



Remember 99% of garages don't have a T4 so think how many operations are done without!!

Now this will shock the motor industry :

The bicycle industry bleed their hydraulic systems from slave end & we've done the same with our electric bicycles !

It works fantastically and much quicker.
If you think about it air bubbles naturally want to rise, so inserting fluid from the lowest point makes perfect sense.

Firstly though give a few pumps in traditional manner to drain the dirty fluid from each slave so as not to be pumping contaminated fluid back up the system into the master.

Works great we've done it on our own cars and have solid pedals.

You have to have 2 syringes, one for inserting fluid at slave and another for extracting fluid at the master so it doesn't overflow.

Enjoy watching the air bubbles end up at top of the master where they should be
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