ZT-T When to let go. - Page 2

MikeGTA · 9th January 2024, 10:06

SD1too

Thanks for going through my post and responding. It all makes sense. Ironically the thing has been so reliable over the years (apart from bits of interior trim falling off) I've not had to go through such a learning curve.

I'll ring round for some quotes on the brakes.

Cheers

Robson Rover Repair · 14th January 2024, 18:37

If fuel pumps have been ruled out then the obvious is the 15amp under bonnet one, I've seen it fail and still allow toaf to talk to it, but it controls diesel fuel pressure regulator control. Basically if the fuel rail is sub 1800psi she wont start.

Also the 20amp beside it is a good shout. Whip them out and change them both. That's a dam good start for cranking but no fuelling to rule out.

The 1260 one is easy, and learned this one from MarinaBrian, basically when key in ignition and not turned to start for too long (eg on diagnostics) causes the pump to time out and you can get that code.

It could be anything from crank sensor to the dreaded security roll back loosing immobilizer codes. Check those fuses and go from there.

MikeGTA · 23rd January 2024, 06:28

OK will do thanks. Ive got a few days now to look at it, weather permitting!

Arctic · 23rd January 2024, 12:18

Hi Mike.
Unplug the Rover Ron box, and put it back to original state and see if it starts, basically remove the ron box from car altogether, IE from the fuel rail, and the MAF so the car is back to factory see what happens.

14th January 2024, 18:37	#12
Robson Rover Repair NI/ROI RS ZT-T 190 / 75 Diesel x3 / 6 door limo / 216 Cabby / Rover 25 van Join Date: May 2009 Location: Antrim Posts: 8,103 Thanks: 299 Thanked 1,046 Times in 568 Posts	If fuel pumps have been ruled out then the obvious is the 15amp under bonnet one, I've seen it fail and still allow toaf to talk to it, but it controls diesel fuel pressure regulator control. Basically if the fuel rail is sub 1800psi she wont start. Also the 20amp beside it is a good shout. Whip them out and change them both. That's a dam good start for cranking but no fuelling to rule out. The 1260 one is easy, and learned this one from MarinaBrian, basically when key in ignition and not turned to start for too long (eg on diagnostics) causes the pump to time out and you can get that code. It could be anything from crank sensor to the dreaded security roll back loosing immobilizer codes. Check those fuses and go from there. __________________ Cheers, Colin Robson Rover Repair on Youtube DISCOUNTED MTEC BRAKES FOR ALL MG ROVER'S Braided hoses, more coating and pad options for 2024

23rd January 2024, 12:18	#14
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,717 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Mike. Unplug the Rover Ron box, and put it back to original state and see if it starts, basically remove the ron box from car altogether, IE from the fuel rail, and the MAF so the car is back to factory see what happens. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 23rd January 2024 at 12:21..

9th January 2024, 10:06	#11
MikeGTA Newbie None at this time (want ZTT) Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: weston super mare Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	SD1too Thanks for going through my post and responding. It all makes sense. Ironically the thing has been so reliable over the years (apart from bits of interior trim falling off) I've not had to go through such a learning curve. I'll ring round for some quotes on the brakes. Cheers

23rd January 2024, 06:28	#13
MikeGTA Newbie None at this time (want ZTT) Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: weston super mare Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	OK will do thanks. Ive got a few days now to look at it, weather permitting!