Cruise control problem - help - Page 2

Jules · 23rd July 2007, 21:23

Hi Matt

Cruise control is designed to operate 25 MPH and above.
You are right, the pedal switches do not have any moving parts, they are like proximity sensors and just sense when the "metal tab" on the pedals gets close, in turn enabling the cruise feature.

Hope this helps.

About 10 X 75's I've had in last 2 years with cruise faults have been pedal switch position.

Once in correct position, glue is a more permanent cure to stop them being dislodged again:lol:

David3807 · 24th July 2007, 00:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark060457

also i thing the cuirse control does not come on till you go above 35 - 40 MPH

Handbook says 28/29 MPH but its about 30 on my auto.

MattP · 24th July 2007, 06:04

Thanks all, will take a look. Very short on space up there!

Will let you all know. Thanks for the info.

MattP · 24th July 2007, 13:33

Right, I've reposition the clutch and break sensors, I guess I'm right in what was in the previous thread that they are proximity sensors.

I lifted both pedels at the same time and tried to activate CC (and yes it was activated on the centre console). And still didn't work. I was traveling at 60mph.

Anyone have any more help? What else can I check. How can I remove the sensors to get a better look at them and check the wiring?

HELP!! I could send it to the MG garage and get them to take a look but will cost me £££'s.

I have merged the two threads to avoid confusion and duplicate listings. No real need to start a new one as continuation. JDC.

pondweed · 24th July 2007, 13:37

would be easier to keep the same thread! why start a new one?

check all the union points i.e. switches on both sides of steering wheel, block at back of wheel, switch on dashboard, ECU under passenger glove compartment on bulkhead and so on(size of a packet of fags but thinner, I seem to remember)

MattP · 24th July 2007, 13:42

Thanks, will rip the thing apart. New thread because the old one looked to big and wanted to start asking different types of Q's

Will try and keep to the same one next time. Just getting frustrated with the damn thing not working.

You know the story. got something there that should work and doesn't, if the car didn't have CC I would be worried, but as it has I want it to work.

Will post when I've taken a look. I guess I need to remove the steering wheel column casing to check the blocks. Do I need to remove the steering wheel covers as well (don't want a air bag problem!)

Sorry, long time since I've owned my own car, just changing job and did have a Company car. Life was so easy then....

TIA

pondweed · 24th July 2007, 14:03

search on "rob bell" posts to find the www address (something like ultimatemg) where he had lodged diagrams to all the cruise items -
it will be useful to you

Greeners · 24th July 2007, 14:23

Tricky one this.......

You only need to take the wheel / air bag off to get to the steering wheel switches. The connect via the rotoray coupler under the lower steering column cover in a white 6 way connector.

To get to the pedal switches, you need to remove the lower fascia panel (The one that goes round the headlight switch) which is two screws on the lower edge and three clips on the top edge.

Not sure if you are diesel or petrol engine but there are some significant differences in the two set ups.

I've got more wiring diagrams and photos of the petrol variety then you could shake a stick at.

Greeners · 24th July 2007, 14:29

Another basic check to make is that the horn and brake lights all work. The radio controls work and that the green led on the dash switch comes on when pressed.

If they all do then all the fuses that the CC relies on are in tact.

Greeners · 24th July 2007, 15:05

If you want a picture of the switch and how it goes together, let me know and I'll post a picture up.

23rd July 2007, 21:23	#11
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Hi Matt Cruise control is designed to operate 25 MPH and above. You are right, the pedal switches do not have any moving parts, they are like proximity sensors and just sense when the "metal tab" on the pedals gets close, in turn enabling the cruise feature. Hope this helps. About 10 X 75's I've had in last 2 years with cruise faults have been pedal switch position. Once in correct position, glue is a more permanent cure to stop them being dislodged again:lol: __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

24th July 2007, 13:33	#14
MattP Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Winchester, Hampshire Posts: 26 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Continuing Cruise control saga - need more help Right, I've reposition the clutch and break sensors, I guess I'm right in what was in the previous thread that they are proximity sensors. I lifted both pedels at the same time and tried to activate CC (and yes it was activated on the centre console). And still didn't work. I was traveling at 60mph. Anyone have any more help? What else can I check. How can I remove the sensors to get a better look at them and check the wiring? HELP!! I could send it to the MG garage and get them to take a look but will cost me £££'s. I have merged the two threads to avoid confusion and duplicate listings. No real need to start a new one as continuation. JDC. Last edited by JohnDotCom; 24th July 2007 at 14:16.. Reason: Merged Threads

24th July 2007, 14:23	#18
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Tricky one this....... You only need to take the wheel / air bag off to get to the steering wheel switches. The connect via the rotoray coupler under the lower steering column cover in a white 6 way connector. To get to the pedal switches, you need to remove the lower fascia panel (The one that goes round the headlight switch) which is two screws on the lower edge and three clips on the top edge. Not sure if you are diesel or petrol engine but there are some significant differences in the two set ups. I've got more wiring diagrams and photos of the petrol variety then you could shake a stick at. __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

24th July 2007, 14:29	#19
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Another basic check to make is that the horn and brake lights all work. The radio controls work and that the green led on the dash switch comes on when pressed. If they all do then all the fuses that the CC relies on are in tact. __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

24th July 2007, 15:05	#20
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	If you want a picture of the switch and how it goes together, let me know and I'll post a picture up. __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

24th July 2007, 06:04	#13
MattP Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Winchester, Hampshire Posts: 26 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks all, will take a look. Very short on space up there! Will let you all know. Thanks for the info.

24th July 2007, 13:37	#15
pondweed This is my second home Waiter, Waiter! I seem to have a Roomster in my drive... Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sussex Posts: 3,268 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	would be easier to keep the same thread! why start a new one? check all the union points i.e. switches on both sides of steering wheel, block at back of wheel, switch on dashboard, ECU under passenger glove compartment on bulkhead and so on(size of a packet of fags but thinner, I seem to remember)

24th July 2007, 13:42	#16
MattP Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Winchester, Hampshire Posts: 26 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks, will rip the thing apart. New thread because the old one looked to big and wanted to start asking different types of Q's Will try and keep to the same one next time. Just getting frustrated with the damn thing not working. You know the story. got something there that should work and doesn't, if the car didn't have CC I would be worried, but as it has I want it to work. Will post when I've taken a look. I guess I need to remove the steering wheel column casing to check the blocks. Do I need to remove the steering wheel covers as well (don't want a air bag problem!) Sorry, long time since I've owned my own car, just changing job and did have a Company car. Life was so easy then.... TIA

24th July 2007, 14:03	#17
pondweed This is my second home Waiter, Waiter! I seem to have a Roomster in my drive... Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sussex Posts: 3,268 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	search on "rob bell" posts to find the www address (something like ultimatemg) where he had lodged diagrams to all the cruise items - it will be useful to you