Driiling out the ABS sensors - Page 3

DAS68 · 2nd December 2013, 09:11

Well I fired up the old girl up for a pre MOT drive to check things out and guess what, both ABS and Air Bag lights are back on again!! I have canceled the MOT and I am back on public transport.

I can't drive anywhere to get on a T4 without an MOT so would a home diagnostic machine be worth a punt for the ABS issues?

ZedTeeTee · 2nd December 2013, 09:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by dissy1810

That's why I said use an m12 bolt, once you've tapped it in, you use the nut to pull it back out which files the hole clear for the new sensor to just drop in the hole

This method gets the Mofo Seal of Approval :icon_mrgreen:

trikey · 2nd December 2013, 09:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mofo

This method gets the Mofo Seal of Approval :icon_mrgreen:

Commonly known as the Dissy method

works a treat.

Mike Noc · 2nd December 2013, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAS68

I can't drive anywhere to get on a T4 without an MOT so would a home diagnostic machine be worth a punt for the ABS issues?

Easy enough to check all the sensors and magnetic reluctors with a voltmeter first.

I got an old ABS plug and socket from a scrappy and soldered a long cable between the two. This is used to plug any wheel sensor into the OSF socket, then spin the wheel and use the speedo as a diagnostic to narrow the fault down.

Using French Mike's voltmeter test jack the wheel up and when slowly rotating the wheel you should see the voltage switch between 1.7v and 0.7v on the sensor. On my long ABS lead I have a bit of choc block so I can pin the sensor cables without going through the insulation.

If you mark the wheel and the sensor fails to read certain segments on the magnetic reluctor then it's new bearing time. If the sensor isn't switching at all it could be faulty or not far enough in to pick up the reluctor.

On mine the sensor was randomly missing segments so after checking it was fully in I filed a bit of the bracket to move the sensing head a bit further in and it then worked fine.

The rear ABS plugs are behind the rear seat back.

DAS68 · 2nd December 2013, 10:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Easy enough to check all the sensors and magnetic reluctors with a voltmeter first.

I got an old ABS plug and socket from a scrappy and soldered a long cable between the two. This is used to plug any wheel sensor into the OSF socket, then spin the wheel and use the speedo as a diagnostic to narrow the fault down.

Using French Mike's voltmeter test jack the wheel up and when slowly rotating the wheel you should see the voltage switch between 1.7v and 0.7v on the sensor. On my long ABS lead I have a bit of choc block so I can pin the sensor cables without going through the insulation.

If you mark the wheel and the sensor fails to read certain segments on the magnetic reluctor then it's new bearing time. If the sensor isn't switching at all it could be faulty or not far enough in to pick up the reluctor.

On mine the sensor was randomly missing segments so after checking it was fully in I filed a bit of the bracket to move the sensing head a bit further in and it then worked fine.

The rear ABS plugs are behind the rear seat back.

I dont understand Mike, a bit beyond my tiny mind Im think!! I dont know how to use a mulitmeter either

Mike Noc · 2nd December 2013, 14:30

From what I've read there aren't any cheap home diagnostic machines that can read ABS faults.

Does the ABS light come on as soon as the ignition key is turned or does it go off and then come back on again when you start driving?

Seeing as the car is off the road maybe worth contacting a mobile auto electrician?

92 squadron · 2nd December 2013, 15:12

Did mine and the ABS light went out after fitting, cracked it I thought. Went for test run and when I came to brake I got a shudder on the pedal as though ABS had kicked in for a locked-up wheel. I then drove a couple of hundred yards further down the road and the ABS light came on again but the braking was back to normal.
Had a T4 session to find the problem but could not trace it, could be a chaft wire between the connector and the ABS unit, they said.
Gave up in the end and scrapped the car.

Good luck!!

DAS68 · 2nd December 2013, 15:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

From what I've read there aren't any cheap home diagnostic machines that can read ABS faults.

Does the ABS light come on as soon as the ignition key is turned or does it go off and then come back on again when you start driving?

Seeing as the car is off the road maybe worth contacting a mobile auto electrician?

Hi Mike- it comes on with the ignition and stays on, although when I first replaced it it went off with the ignition, the battery was flat so I changed it and then it came back on

DAS68 · 2nd December 2013, 16:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Easy enough to check all the sensors and magnetic reluctors with a voltmeter first.

I got an old ABS plug and socket from a scrappy and soldered a long cable between the two. This is used to plug any wheel sensor into the OSF socket, then spin the wheel and use the speedo as a diagnostic to narrow the fault down.

Using French Mike's voltmeter test jack the wheel up and when slowly rotating the wheel you should see the voltage switch between 1.7v and 0.7v on the sensor. On my long ABS lead I have a bit of choc block so I can pin the sensor cables without going through the insulation.

If you mark the wheel and the sensor fails to read certain segments on the magnetic reluctor then it's new bearing time. If the sensor isn't switching at all it could be faulty or not far enough in to pick up the reluctor.

On mine the sensor was randomly missing segments so after checking it was fully in I filed a bit of the bracket to move the sensing head a bit further in and it then worked fine.

The rear ABS plugs are behind the rear seat back.

This is the meter I have, can anyone tell me what setting is should be on for the ABS to be tested?

Mike Noc · 2nd December 2013, 16:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92 squadron

Did mine and the ABS light went out after fitting, cracked it I thought. Went for test run and when I came to brake I got a shudder on the pedal as though ABS had kicked in for a locked-up wheel. I then drove a couple of hundred yards further down the road and the ABS light came on again but the braking was back to normal.
Had a T4 session to find the problem but could not trace it, could be a chaft wire between the connector and the ABS unit, they said.
Gave up in the end and scrapped the car.

Good luck!!

No help for you Mike but could be to anyone else with the same symptoms, as that is exactly what mine was doing before the sensor was moved.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAS68

This is the meter I have, can anyone tell me what setting is should be on for the ABS to be tested?

3 clicks anti-clockwise and you are set to measure DC volts.

2nd December 2013, 09:11	#21
DAS68 Posted a thing or two 2001 75 CDT Moonstone Green,160 Remap, Hairpins, Half Leather Contemporaryand knob, ZT wheel. TAZU. Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Burscough Lancashire (Scouser in Exile) Posts: 1,089 Thanks: 279 Thanked 79 Times in 50 Posts	Well I fired up the old girl up for a pre MOT drive to check things out and guess what, both ABS and Air Bag lights are back on again!! I have canceled the MOT and I am back on public transport. I can't drive anywhere to get on a T4 without an MOT so would a home diagnostic machine be worth a punt for the ABS issues? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Improvise, Adapt and Overcome

2nd December 2013, 15:12	#27
92 squadron Drink 92 SQUADRON BEER Jaguar X Type 2.2 SE Diesel estate Mem No789 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Hitchin Posts: 776 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Did mine and the ABS light went out after fitting, cracked it I thought. Went for test run and when I came to brake I got a shudder on the pedal as though ABS had kicked in for a locked-up wheel. I then drove a couple of hundred yards further down the road and the ABS light came on again but the braking was back to normal. Had a T4 session to find the problem but could not trace it, could be a chaft wire between the connector and the ABS unit, they said. Gave up in the end and scrapped the car. Good luck!! __________________ http://signatures.mylivesignature.co...C81D84B0AF.png

2nd December 2013, 14:30	#26
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,550 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	From what I've read there aren't any cheap home diagnostic machines that can read ABS faults. Does the ABS light come on as soon as the ignition key is turned or does it go off and then come back on again when you start driving? Seeing as the car is off the road maybe worth contacting a mobile auto electrician?