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Old 7th December 2013, 13:18   #51
DAS68
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I had a loose conection on one of the choc blocks I have now tested all 4 wheels by spinning the correct wheel 3 out of 4 have moved the spedo so I know the fault lies at the front passenger wheel, which is the sensor I replaced last week so I guess I should now replace that bearing?

So back to my other quiestion is there a how to for the front bearing ?
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Old 7th December 2013, 13:25   #52
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I had a loose conection on one of the choc blocks I have now tested all 4 wheels by spinning the correct wheel 3 out of 4 have moved the spedo so I know the fault lies at the front passenger wheel, which is the sensor I replaced last week so I guess I should now replace that bearing?

So back to my other quiestion is there a how to for the front bearing ?
Is the ABS light coming on and staying on straight away? If so, there's a problem with the sensor too. They can be dead on arrival or have a bit of copper grease on the sensor head if you used that to help ease the sensor in.

I'd get a garage to do the bearing replacement. You can do it if you have the correct size collars and a good bench vice. It's a whole lot easier with a hydraulic press.
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Old 7th December 2013, 13:33   #53
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Is the ABS light coming on and staying on straight away? If so, there's a problem with the sensor too. They can be dead on arrival or have a bit of copper grease on the sensor head if you used that to help ease the sensor in.

I'd get a garage to do the bearing replacement. You can do it if you have the correct size collars and a good bench vice. It's a whole lot easier with a hydraulic press.

I used general purpose grease on it to get it in, The ABS light does come on and stay so I will try another sensor I have.
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Old 7th December 2013, 13:37   #54
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I used general purpose grease on it to get it in, The ABS light does come on and stay so I will try another sensor I have.
Try another sensor first. If it's a very tight fit, take some of the plastic ridge off of the side of the sensor with a stanley knife, it's held in place by the retaining bolt anyway.
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Old 8th December 2013, 01:15   #55
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Is the ABS light coming on and staying on straight away? If so, there's a problem with the sensor too.
I don't think that's always the case... The system can remember a fault that appears when in motion and have the same effect (light always on without moving), even after swapping sensor for a good one.

The 'reset' in this case is to turn on ignition for a few seconds WITHOUT the sensor attached, turn off, then reconnect the sensor, and try ignition again. If the light goes out, the sensor is passing static tests - however it doesn't always mean it's 100% ok though (it may not read anything at all). See http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=163007
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Old 8th December 2013, 16:56   #56
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That's why I said use an m12 bolt, once you've tapped it in, you use the nut to pull it back out which files the hole clear for the new sensor to just drop in the hole
Can I just check this one with you Dissy, there is a what looks like metal rim down the hole on one side will I not damage this if I drive a bolt down the hole and pull it out again? is the rim the magnetic part of the bearing?
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Old 8th December 2013, 17:24   #57
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Can I just check this one with you Dissy, there is a what looks like metal rim down the hole on one side will I not damage this if I drive a bolt down the hole and pull it out again? is the rim the magnetic part of the bearing?
Screw the nut on to the bolt so the thread sticking out is no longer than the sensor, then when you knock it in it stops against the nut stopping it going in to far, then unscrew the nut and it will pull the bolt out and clear the hole at the same time
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