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22nd November 2012, 17:49 | #11 |
This is my second home
MG6 1.8T GT SE Join Date: Mar 2009
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Brilliant thread, I will get this posted in the how to section.
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MG6 1.8 TCi in Artic White 1975 Land Rover Series 3 |
22nd November 2012, 19:14 | #12 | |
Posted a thing or two
MG ZT+ 190 Join Date: Apr 2012
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Quote:
And if you do it on a nice sunday and stretch it out you might not have to help with the dishes after sunday dinner
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Mods done - Spyhole mod - Xenons - Blue dash lights (except message centre) - VIS indicators - Illuminated sun visors - Drivers grab handle - Smiley plate - Rear electric blind - Handbrake compensator. Mods to do - Powerfolds - Better ICE - Headlight washers - Heated seats - cruise - And loads more i can't remember. [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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22nd November 2012, 20:13 | #13 |
This is my second home
None * DROWNED Join Date: Aug 2007
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Indeed worthy and can be found here
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Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER... |
3rd January 2013, 14:14 | #14 |
Newbie
1999 ROVER 75 2.5 Conni. AUTO Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: East Kilbride
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Keyhole surgery
I have begun doing mine today, having got as far as removing the duff stat housing i am now waiting until tomorrow to put the new one in. I was quite shocked to have the top half of the housing come away as I removed it, which will explain the fact hat any topping up was immediately dumped in to the V.
I removed the elbow pipe whole using a half inch extension inserted in it to wiggle it free as someone else suggested. My problem is going to be getting the 8mm bolt back in that secures the new housing, getting it out was OK as the top half was gone. It is a 10ml socket. The long pipe has a wee bit at the end that was quite brittle and worn away, also the o seals looked really tired. Whoever thought it was a good idea to make this housing from plastic was obviously an accountant and not an engineer. I decided on trying this method as the thought of removing all the plumbing and manifolds did not appeal, it may yet come to that but I will you keep posted. So far so good 90 minutes work to date. The wiring loom to the sensor is as in the picture bereft of it's shielding. Which has gone brittle and departed. I am wondering if it is wise to leave it as such? Otherwise I will need to send away for the correct sleeving. Thanks for this excellent thread, where would we be with out this marvellous forum. |
3rd January 2013, 17:45 | #15 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 V6 2.0 Club Tourer LPG Join Date: Apr 2011
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Btw if the plastic snapped there will be some left in the block. Use a bit of plastic to lever it out.
This is one reason not to use this method imho - you just cant see properly what is going on. Btw 2 you must have surgeons hands to get in that gap. :xmas-smiley-031: |
3rd January 2013, 17:53 | #16 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
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3rd January 2013, 18:42 | #17 |
This is my second home
BMW 330d Tourer, MG ZT 180 SE XPG, VW Polo 6R 1.2 TDI Bluemotion Join Date: Jul 2011
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Ive got pretty fat arms mate and it is possible to squeeze it in over the stat to refit the 8mm bolt. Once you've got your arm in it really is pretty easy to redo it. I had to sacrifice some skin but no more than I scuff off walking over speed bumps.
Take pics too, might be something different that may help others |
3rd January 2013, 19:01 | #18 |
Newbie
1999 ROVER 75 2.5 Conni. AUTO Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: East Kilbride
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Keyhole surgery
Thanks canonite, my fingers have been compared to a bunch of Fyfves bananas, which is why I never passed my gynaecology exams
However I feel more confident about a successful out come here, having seen it out. I will,try for some pics tomorrow. I intend using vegetable spread to lube the o rings prior to fitting. I have decided to wrap the wiring in tin foil and cable tie it. Dashiel I have not had any plastic snapping of what happened was the stat had parted company at the seam, but nothing was stuck in any of the ports all is clean and good to go. If I get the 8mm bolt in and tight it will have been a wee doddle, compared to removing the manifolds. I also removed the lifting bracket that sits to the side of the gap, this gave me a lot of room, but have not found the need to remove battery box as someone else had. The throttle body needs a good clean and service so taking it out has been beneficial. Watch this space! |
4th January 2013, 20:12 | #19 |
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1999 ROVER 75 2.5 Conni. AUTO Join Date: Aug 2010
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Day 2
So I got an hour at the stat today due to the car being outside as my Defender 90 is in the workshop taking up the space. However it has been a succesfull hour as I fitted the new stat. The main body slotted in quite easily, the tricky one is the elbow piece, which I fitted but had to use a long screwdriver down through a gap in manifold to put pressure on the flange as I used my right hand to wiggle it in to place, eventually it slotted home. Then came the interesting bit. As I have said my hands resemble a bunch of Fyves finest. However with memories from my days on the farm I covered my left hand and wrist with Stork margarine which I had previously used to lube the o rings. This meant that my left hand easily slipped over the top of the stat without any friction and I was able to finger tighten the 8 mm bolt to secure the units in place. I then used a small 10mm ratchet ring spanner to tweek it tight, job done. After refitting the oil breather pipe I connected the hoses back up and filled the system with water to check for leaks. Not a drop has leaked. I then drained the system using the bottom hose at the rad to drain it down. Tomorrow I will refill it with water and run the engine as I still have to do the throttle chamber. I have taken some pics so I will try and post them when I find my card reader.:xmas-smiley-022:
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6th January 2013, 17:58 | #20 |
Newbie
1999 ROVER 75 2.5 Conni. AUTO Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: East Kilbride
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A dry V is a wondefull thing.
DSC_0376.JPG
DSC_0374.JPG DSC_0373.JPG Here are some photos from the job. I am pretty new to this photo uploading thing as I had to download Photoscape to resize and I have now lost the will to live. However the stat is in and cushtie. Happiness is a dry V! Job done filled her up again road tested and my V is dry, I am a happy bunny. No frost forecast but I am going to drain her down again tomorrow and fill with red OAT 50/50. The comments by Kaiser and others on filling this system have proved to be 100%. There is no need for vacuum filling or bleeding or any other palavers, just fill the thing slowly with coolant and top it up as required each morning before you drive. It is self bleeding. My heater and aircon has worked perfectly. I have had no issues with air locking or cold heater or anything else. I have now drained and filled the system twice. It has now become a ritual that I check this each day, a good excuse to purchase an AA Maglite, as if I needed one? Today I drained and refilled with red OAT, went for a longish run and it is wonderful. No burning coolant smell, no steam when stopped. No problems with temperature. Came back and checked the V with a torch and it is bone dry. Once it had gone cold I checked the level, and it has not dropped a bit, so all ends well. All went better than I expected and it is not a difficult job doing it this way. I removed the engine lifting bracket and the breather pipe that goes across the gap, I then had all the room I needed. I will post a photo of the old stat if I can get the Photoscape thing to work properly. If this happens again I would probably consider the metal stat, if they are still available Mr K? Making the housing from plastic was an act of vandalism IMHO. Last edited by bornagainroverowner; 7th January 2013 at 13:09.. |
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