Metal slave cylinder worth it?

[bluenoseSOTV]

Looks like I'm on my 4th clutch fail now, joy

These metal slaves proven themselves yet or is the jury still out?

[maxi_crawf]

All on the same car, how many miles has it done?

[bluenoseSOTV]

127k. It's a diesel. I've owned it since 97k

First clutch came with car, really heavy, went

Second clutch low biting point could not change gear, believe slave gone from new

Third smoked friction disc 25k

Fourth just in, didn't replace slave as only 25k. Low biting point struggling to get in gear, looks like slave gone again

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by bluenoseSOTV

127k. It's a diesel. I've owned it since 97k

First clutch came with car, really heavy, went

Second clutch low biting point could not change gear, believe slave gone from new

Third smoked friction disc 25k

Fourth just in, didn't replace slave as only 25k. Low biting point struggling to get in gear, looks like slave gone again

As a bit of advice, either you are using extremely poor quality or incorrect parts, or your fitting technique is poor.

I rather think that the longevity or rather lack of it, of good quality clutch hydraulic parts from a reputable source, is down to poor installation.

Every clutch I have replaced in these cars, in all but one case have been carried out with compete removal of the subframe, removal of the gearbox, cleaning thoroughly the bell housing and input shaft sleeve.

With the gearbox sat in front of you, it is easy to install the slave without subjecting it to undue stress either to the pipework, or the cylinder itself.

Similarly when refitting the gearbox, the small lug on the top of the box adjacent to the pipework exit grommet, is absolutely perfectly balanced for attaching the lifting eyelet and hoisting the gearbox back into position.


Also when refitting the gearbox, a couple of short lengths of M12 studding screwed into diagonally opposing holes in the engine allow for the perfect alignment of the gearbox to engine mating.

Result, the clutch you fit, you fit once, and don't have to repeat every other weekend, at the rate you seem to be going through them, is about six months in my motoring terms, and four clutches in six months is excessive by any standard.

Have a look at the items in question, they can be found HERE they are not for me, I'm quite happy with 100K plus with the OEM items


Brian

[Dansrockin]

I can definitely recommend the metal slave. I put a new luk slave in my old 190 when I did the clutch. Only managed around 9k when it failed. I decided to go for the metal slave more for peace of mind that it should last a lot longer, and would hopefully save the hassle and cost of another replacement in a few 1000 miles! It was only about £20 more than an luk one.

[marinabrian]

As a footnote to my previous post, driving technique can of course play a huge role in the life of a clutch.

I was recently a passenger in a 75 where a member had come across to have a fault diagnosed.

After 30 seconds of him riding the clutch at a set of traffic lights, I could stand it no more and reached over and knocked the car into neutral.

He was a bit bewildered by my explanation of driving with mechanical sympathy, but after explaining to him the folly of his ways, he was in complete agreement.

So before condemning the car, perhaps sometimes we should question our driving styles once in a while

Brian

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by Dansrockin

I can definitely recommend the metal slave. I put a new luk slave in my old 190 when I did the clutch. Only managed around 9k when it failed. I decided to go for the metal slave more for peace of mind that it should last a lot longer, and would hopefully save the hassle and cost of another replacement in a few 1000 miles! It was only about £20 more than an luk one.

Do you know how it failed ?

Hydraulically speaking ,i don't see why the metal one should be better since
the weak part is the seal . (i suppose they are the same;if someone can confirm).



Mike

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by bluenoseSOTV

127k. It's a diesel. I've owned it since 97k

First clutch came with car, really heavy, went

Second clutch low biting point could not change gear, believe slave gone from new

Third smoked friction disc 25k

Fourth just in, didn't replace slave as only 25k. Low biting point struggling to get in gear, looks like slave gone again

Hmm, something wrong

I am afraid,like me ,you have replaced OEM used parts by poorer quality ones

In every case was a fluid leak visible ?

What master have you currently ?

Mike

[bluenoseSOTV]

Master is tazu mk1 slave is luk.

Soft pedal low bite point tells me there is issue. I bled it fully and it was perfect for a couple of days then worked its way back to floor. Oddly pedal is firm with engine off and soft with engine on. I cannot understand the possible cause of this.

My driving is excellent and not responsible.

So are the metal slaves any good? Couldn't find any high mileage feedback on line or understand any reason they would be better than the plastic one, although I guess they couldn't be any worse

[The Gas Man]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

As a footnote to my previous post, driving technique can of course play a huge role in the life of a clutch.

I was recently a passenger in a 75 where a member had come across to have a fault diagnosed.

After 30 seconds of him riding the clutch at a set of traffic lights, I could stand it no more and reached over and knocked the car into neutral.

He was a bit bewildered by my explanation of driving with mechanical sympathy, but after explaining to him the folly of his ways, he was in complete agreement.

So before condemning the car, perhaps sometimes we should question our driving styles once in a while

Brian

I think an awful lot of 'mechanical' problems are down to driver error, people who sit with their foot on the clutch at the lights etc really annoy me. A friend of mine proudly announced that his new car had air con, I suggested he still use it for 30min per week even in the winter, did he b******s. Summer came, no air con!