Alternator Renewal (How I Did It)

[ardvark]

Thats great. Thanks for that. Another question. The alternator I've offered from my local motorfactors is rated at 100A. They say that is the one for my car according to their system. Will I have any problems with a 100A alernator. Some members have suggested a 120A, but me getting one lacal is a bit of a challenge.

[Jules]

Belt diagram looks correct to me Mike .
Steve hope you replaced at least the compressor belt?

The main belt is good for 120k but AC belt cracks up at around 60k

[Jules]

Originally Posted by ardvark

Thats great. Thanks for that. Another question. The alternator I've offered from my local motor factors is rated at 100A. They say that is the one for my car according to their system. Will I have any problems with a 100A alternator. Some members have suggested a 120A, but me getting one lacal is a bit of a challenge.

Most exchange Alts are of a lower Amperage.
100 AMP is perfectly fine for 75 Zt's

In fact your battery won't get cooked as much!
I've replaced far more batteries on facelifts with 120 Amp Alts than the (Usually) Mk1's with the 100 Amp


We started changing batteries in 2007 on 04 plate 75's (then only 3 years old !)

This Winter I am STILL changing out ORIGINAL Delphi batteries with 2003 2004 stamped on them in CDT's with 100A Alts.


Higher rated Alternators aren't always best IMO.............they boil yer cells if you don't keep the battery trickle charged in the cold Winters because they are generating almost full o/p to


You're far better off with a low o/p generator and carefully "manage" your current consumption (ie not having every gadget switched on at once) and this will give typically 8 - 10 years battery life with regular external trickle charging.


We still have the original 2004 Delphi Batteries in 2 of our cars

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by ardvark

Thats great. Thanks for that. Another question. The alternator I've offered from my local motorfactors is rated at 100A. They say that is the one for my car according to their system. Will I have any problems with a 100A alernator. Some members have suggested a 120A, but me getting one lacal is a bit of a challenge.

Hi Al
I change mine for an 115A

Originally Posted by Jules

Belt diagram looks correct to me Mike .
Steve hope you replaced at least the compressor belt?

The main belt is good for 120k but AC belt cracks up at around 60k

Hi Jules.
I changed both belts the A/C one because as you say was cracked and the Aux belt as a precaution Arctic

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Jules

Belt diagram looks correct to me Mike.

Yes my mistake Jules.

[ardvark]

Thankyou JULES. I've been worrying about this all week/end. Your reply and explaination has put my mind at rest. Come Friday I'll be getting a 100A alternator and no matter what weather fitting it over that week/end. Thanks again.

[Aerosteve]

Excellent post. If you follow this procedure on an automatic gearbox car the gearbox oil cooler under the main radiator gets in the way of the compressor as you reposition it to drop the alternator out from underneath. However, it will go. Just push the compressor as far as it will go towards the centre of the car and jiggle the alternator about a bit and it will drop down and out.

[gbs100]

I will be fitting mine this way at the weekend but im lucky as i can use a 2 post lift at work

[DMGRS]

Just found this again, what an excellent guide! Still can't believe how much of a faffy job it is... but a guide like this goes a long way in helping.

[DMGRS]

Also - a word of warning all members should heed!
As I found out, you can get 'uprated' 150A alternators from eBay and the like - however they are physically larger than the original item. You CANNOT fit them via the 'under car' method (removal of AC pump as detailed in this guide) and you must go through the front end via removal of radiator etc.

I found this out the hard way!