Alternator Renewal (How I Did It) - Page 2

DMGRS · 11th April 2013, 12:46

That's the brush pack / regulator - the slip rings are the parts the brushes contact on the rotating armature of the alternator. These are exposed when you remove the brush pack.

My failure was also worn brushes, like yours.

Mike Noc · 11th April 2013, 13:26

Thanks Matt. How many miles did you get out of your brushes?

DMGRS · 11th April 2013, 13:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Thanks Matt. How many miles did you get out of your brushes?

182k if I remember correctly

trebor · 11th April 2013, 16:15

Great job as ever Steve, and a how to for the rest or us when the time comes

Arctic · 11th April 2013, 19:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Quick update: Having read Matt's last post that isn't the brush I'm after. Thought it looked a bit different but must admit I haven't had an alternator apart recently.

Not that it matters, but you have the freewheel pulley and the tensioner pulley mixed up on your belt diagram in the last photo. Good idea to note the belt run - when I first changed my serpentine belt I had a foot or more spare as I hadn't routed it correctly.

Hi Mike
If you look at the pics you will see that the first photo here shows how the belt is before i have taken it off,

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Working from the bottom the Yellow dot is the auxilary pulley,Blue is the alternator pulley,Green the free wheel pulley,Red the power steering pulley,White the water pump pulley,Orange the tensioner pulley,which brings you back to the A/Pulley =Yellow

Pink & Purple are for the A/C belt & compressor

Dragrad · 11th April 2013, 21:57

Yet another excellent submission Steve,

You know the drill...... How to here

Mike Noc · 11th April 2013, 23:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Mike
If you look at the pics you will see that the first photo here shows how the belt is before i have taken it off,

Yes of course my apologies Steve you are spot on. Ignore my ramblings.

carlpenn · 13th April 2013, 08:50

Steve, you should get a Job at Haynes mate, Show 'em how its done

ardvark · 13th April 2013, 14:25

I'll be following your brilliant instructions next week/end.
One question if I may?
Is there a reason why I can't take the 24mm ring spanner off the tenioner nut after the belt is removed?
Or do I have to keep tenion on it?

Arctic · 14th April 2013, 10:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by ardvark

I'll be following your brilliant instructions next week/end.
One question if I may?
Is there a reason why I can't take the 24mm ring spanner off the tenioner nut after the belt is removed?
Or do I have to keep tenion on it?

No Reason at all take it off if so wish, if you are only changing the alternator and not the belt you should be able get the belt off the alternator pulley keeping the rest of the belt in place, personally i would remove it and check it out and replace if need be also check the A/C belt at the same time and replace if need be. Arctic

11th April 2013, 16:15	#14
trebor This is my second home Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur SE & MG ZT Saloon 190 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Coven Posts: 12,523 Thanks: 526 Thanked 1,877 Times in 885 Posts	Great job as ever Steve, and a how to for the rest or us when the time comes __________________ www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk Robs Car Gallery Coven near Wolverhampton WV9 2000 Cowley Built Rover 75 2.0 V6 Club SE/ Atlantic Blue/ Sandstone/Walnut (daily driver) 2003 Land Rover Freelander 1 TD4 HSE Helsinki Blue/Black Leather (swmbo daily driver)

11th April 2013, 21:57	#16
Dragrad This is my second home *None DROWNED** Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cardigan Posts: 33,339 Thanks: 1,257 Thanked 1,664 Times in 1,081 Posts	Yet another excellent submission Steve, You know the drill...... How to here __________________ Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER...

13th April 2013, 08:50	#18
carlpenn This is my second home 2000 Wedgey Blue 2.5V6 Beauty Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Bilston Posts: 4,486 Thanks: 36 Thanked 29 Times in 16 Posts	Steve, you should get a Job at Haynes mate, Show 'em how its done __________________ 2.5V6 Auto: Work carried out so far: Crankcase Breather Pipe replaced, O/S CV Joint replaced, Starter Motor Repair Kit Fitted, Front Suspension Overhauled.

13th April 2013, 14:25	#19
ardvark Al 75 CDTI Tourer Auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Studley Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 1 Thanked 69 Times in 48 Posts	I'll be following your brilliant instructions next week/end. One question if I may? Is there a reason why I can't take the 24mm ring spanner off the tenioner nut after the belt is removed? Or do I have to keep tenion on it? __________________ ARDVARK

11th April 2013, 12:46	#11
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	That's the brush pack / regulator - the slip rings are the parts the brushes contact on the rotating armature of the alternator. These are exposed when you remove the brush pack. My failure was also worn brushes, like yours.

11th April 2013, 13:26	#12
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Thanks Matt. How many miles did you get out of your brushes?