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Old 26th June 2017, 16:04   #1
Busboy
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Default Air bag light on

All of a sudden my Air bag light has come on and stays on and does not go out at all even if the ignition is switched on and off.

I have read through a couple of old threads on the issue and I have located the two yellow connectors which are clipped in to a flat bar running ender the seat, now I realise that the connector with the yellow sleeving is for the pre-tensioner, so the other must be for the air bag, ( see pics).

now I can't see how to separate the yellow connector, I have put the seat right forward and am looking in from behind, but I can't see how the connector can be separated as it is not possible to get both hands in , surely the seat won't have to come out will it?

Any advice on how to go about this job most welcome
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Old 26th June 2017, 16:19   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busboy View Post
- - - surely the seat won't have to come out will it?
To do a proper job, yes. See Haynes, page 11.25. Use a proper socket bit (TorxPlus or Ribe? You decide: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872...lus&gsc.page=1)

The wiring connectors are quite pathetic and will almost certainly fail again no matter how much you lube and tie them. The most radical fix is to solder the wires together. Many owners have fitted better connectors, though I don't recommend scotchlocks for this job.

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Old 26th June 2017, 16:25   #3
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A problem with either the airbag or pre-tensioner will bring the fault light up.
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Old 26th June 2017, 16:26   #4
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If you get hold of the connector and twist it anti clockwise through 90 degrees, it will come off the seat base. That allows you more room to get both hands to it (seat up high and as far forward as poss). Just pull them apart and push back together a few times, spraying some contact cleaner or WD40 into it whilst apart. I have left mine off the seat clips as it seems to put less strain on the wiring that way and they are easier to get to when it happens again (which it will!). (Mines a facelift so not sure if yours is the same)
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Old 26th June 2017, 16:33   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
To do a proper job, yes. See Haynes, page 11.25. Use a proper socket bit (TorxPlus or Ribe? You decide: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=013872...lus&gsc.page=1)

The wiring connectors are quite pathetic and will almost certainly fail again no matter how much you lube and tie them. The most radical fix is to solder the wires together. Many owners have fitted better connectors, though I don't recommend scotchlocks for this job.

TC
Thanks TC , I have already invested in a set of torx for my car, but if I undo all the runner screws, won't the electric seat wiring get disturbed or make the seat difficult to remove?

I have some crimp connectors that will do the job, not ideal I know but should get me so results for now.

Regards

Keith.
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Old 26th June 2017, 16:48   #6
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Quote:
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- - - if I undo all the runner screws, won't the electric seat wiring get disturbed or make the seat difficult to remove?
Dunno, but someone will.

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Old 26th June 2017, 20:35   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
If you get hold of the connector and twist it anti clockwise through 90 degrees, it will come off the seat base. That allows you more room to get both hands to it (seat up high and as far forward as poss). Just pull them apart and push back together a few times, spraying some contact cleaner or WD40 into it whilst apart. I have left mine off the seat clips as it seems to put less strain on the wiring that way and they are easier to get to when it happens again (which it will!). (Mines a facelift so not sure if yours is the same)
Thanks Mike for your tip, I will give this a go, presumably the 3/4 anticlockwise turn is looking forwards from the rear?

Cheers

Keith
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Old 26th June 2017, 20:40   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
If you get hold of the connector and twist it anti clockwise through 90 degrees, it will come off the seat base. That allows you more room to get both hands to it (seat up high and as far forward as poss). Just pull them apart and push back together a few times, spraying some contact cleaner or WD40 into it whilst apart. I have left mine off the seat clips as it seems to put less strain on the wiring that way and they are easier to get to when it happens again (which it will!). (Mines a facelift so not sure if yours is the same)
Thanks Mike for that tip, I will give that a go, hopefully it will be a simple job, I'll try your tip of not refixing the connector to the base.

Cheers

Keith
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Old 26th June 2017, 22:41   #9
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Disconnect battery for 30mins have. A cuppa, then T50 Torx remove all 4 seat bolts, cut and solder the wires job done, all the electric wiring underneath will be fine to tip the seats back towards the rear bench seat 😉
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Old 27th June 2017, 00:07   #10
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I was doing the same job on my MGZT yesterday as I had to remove the seat to mend the side cowling which had come away from the frame, also a intermittent ABL

Spayed with a little electrical contact cleaner, also one pin off set a fraction then belt and braced with cable ties Arctic
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