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Old 31st December 2019, 15:59   #21
Abott10
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Default Further progress today.

This is the BMW type Coolant Connection which became loose ( when old they can be difficult to locate securely ) and their internal seals expand making a perfect fit hard to obtain. I removed the U-Shaped Clip for safe keeping to use later. The original root cause alerting me to the possibility of overheating engine damage.



Then deployed my Liner Drift GIZMO. Delighted to report it soon had the last Liner No 4 out.





Block now minus Cylinder Liners :~





Removed assemblies carefully stored prior to thorough clean up before refitting with the Shims. Think I will use the merest smear of Blue Sealant simply to hold the Shims in place... unless those with more experience of these things believe that is NOT a wise thing to do for whatever reason I'm not aware of. Welcome any feedback here.



Couple of years ago got a batch of various MG and Rover Metal parts refurbished and finished in Gloss Black Powder Coating. All have or will come in handy and this Tie bar from the Sump Mount will do just that on reassembly. Needed to run a Tap through the corroded threads and jobs a good un now.

Pleased with today's progress. Looking forward to cleaning up and checking all the components prior to the rebuild.



Off to run a nice hot bath now. Well earned deep joy for the old bones and joints.
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Last edited by Abott10; 31st December 2019 at 16:01.. Reason: Title
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Old 31st December 2019, 20:38   #22
Lovel
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Hmm, thought you would opt for elastomer instead of mls. I never fit them now not even on a healthy spec motor, preferring to treat the elastomer gasket as a service item at 70k miles or so, after all a head job is peanuts if done sensibly

Just a thought and something I have thought about trying on a last chance abused engine on a tiny budget. Look closely at the ends of each elastomer gasket and you will see a short folded over metal shim spacer. This shim spacer dictates the amount of squeeze on the gasket. If one were to remove this it would allow more squeeze/clamping force on the gasket, especially engines with sunken or flush liners. I am in no way recommending anyone carry this out, but when you have something that does not have much money sunk into it and all the time in the world then a little fun might be worth a try.

Finally regarding your dilemma on the shims and sealing, we use a product in the oil industry called baker lock. A smear of this around the liner and the shim and I can assure you that black scorching will not occur and the liner to block seal will be a thing of the past. Downside is the liner is never coming out again
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Old 1st January 2020, 20:34   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovel View Post
Hmm, thought you would opt for elastomer instead of mls. I never fit them now not even on a healthy spec motor, preferring to treat the elastomer gasket as a service item at 70k miles or so, after all a head job is peanuts if done sensibly

Just a thought and something I have thought about trying on a last chance abused engine on a tiny budget. Look closely at the ends of each elastomer gasket and you will see a short folded over metal shim spacer. This shim spacer dictates the amount of squeeze on the gasket. If one were to remove this it would allow more squeeze/clamping force on the gasket, especially engines with sunken or flush liners. I am in no way recommending anyone carry this out, but when you have something that does not have much money sunk into it and all the time in the world then a little fun might be worth a try.

Finally regarding your dilemma on the shims and sealing, we use a product in the oil industry called baker lock. A smear of this around the liner and the shim and I can assure you that black scorching will not occur and the liner to block seal will be a thing of the past. Downside is the liner is never coming out again
Yes, I have seen those and something similar on both Elastomer and MLS ( Multi Layer Steel ) K-Series Cylinder Head Gaskets. I shall fit a MLS Gasket along with its Head Saver Shim. The surface of this Cylinder Head is near perfect for a used component.

Inspecting the new MLS I shall fit, still in its sealed wrapping, as well as what I you mention and I describe as a "Clamp Limiters" on the ends ( Do not know the exact Nomenclature ... ) there are EIGHT equally spaced small raised "projections" on the MLS, four equally spaced along each long side, with what looks like a very hard metal "spacer" ( ) limiter between the Multi Layer construction.

This latest MLS arrived a few days ago and compared to others fitted in the past, looks of a higher standard of production quality to those fitted previously by me which have proven good. Those MLSs have and continue to prove very reliable now ten years since I first fitted them.

Here in this image I have indicated two of these four pairs of "limiters" ... there are eight in total as well as the "limiters" at each end.



The above a closer view of these "limiters" if that is what they area. Below a more general view of the gasket.



Thinks, removal of those so called limiters would mean the Fire Rings alone would serve that purpose.
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File Type: jpg K-Series MLS CHG #2 .JPG (95.5 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg K-Series MLS CHG #1 .JPG (118.4 KB, 83 views)
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Old 2nd January 2020, 18:07   #24
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Thumbs down Bad News... Some really, really, REALLY BAD NEWS.

Decided to clean up some components, start with the four Piston Liners and Piston-Con Rod Assemblies. Started on the dirtiest one.. No 4.

Before Clean up after wipe over with petrol soaked rag.





After clean up. This revealed evidence of corrosion ( poor coolant quality not in my ownership ) which may explain why it was not easy to remove like Liners 2 and 3.



Then turned my attention to the No. 4 Piston. This cleaned up in a few seconds using the Rotary Wire Brush in the trusty Black and Decker.



As I checked the condition of the Piston Rings. ... ... Broken lands between the top two Piston Rings discovered when checking Rings..







Then turned my attention to the other three Pistons and their rings. THREE of the four with similar broken material between the top two Piston Rings.

Looks like it will be better and quicker to fit a complete replacement engine. Or fit the MG6 Engine I have on standby.
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Old 2nd January 2020, 19:42   #25
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With the rings in that condition it could also need a rebore as well as new pistons.---

Rebores can be done with the engine in situ though.





PS. And liners. Lol.

Last edited by COLVERT; 2nd January 2020 at 20:26..
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Old 2nd January 2020, 20:24   #26
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Which make of piston/liners ?
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Old 2nd January 2020, 23:32   #27
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Brand X liners and pistons HERE

The gudgeon pins are a once only chance to fit, I used an old deep fat fryer to heat the rods, and had the gudgeon pins in the freezer up until the moment of fitting on the last one I did.

Incidentally this particular engine which was built from rubbish I had lying around was still in service until the car was scrapped six years after the rebuild following a rear suspension failure.

Fit the MG6 engine and forget this one......I know I would

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Old 4th January 2020, 00:02   #28
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This afternoon I cleaned up the new, unused spare 1.8 K Cylinder Liner I have and offered it up to two of the Liner locations in the block. Locations 2 and 4. It needed a tap with the Club Hammer with a piece of wood interposed to get it started and in to halfway. Would then easily go all the way in with further taps. I took it out after the test using my Gizmo..

I'm leaning towards getting that Liner, Piston, Rings and G-Pin kit. I will use the MLS CHG, its Head Saver Shim and fit the Liner Shims too. If it all falls apart soon after, as they say ... 'appens.

Will continue to think on it. I will need advice to remove the old pistons from the Con-Rods. I have a good idea how to do that and I have sufficient tools to attempt the task. What could possibly go wrong.. ... answers on a postcard..
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Old 4th January 2020, 11:32   #29
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When I did mine I had the new pistons and pins put on the conrods by a company in Fleetwood they are called Redmans. It was just over £30 (now £35). They do a postal service but I dropped them in. Really nice guys. Might be an option? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/conrod-pi...QAAOxyaTxRSQ4r


Regards John

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Old 4th January 2020, 12:50   #30
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Default I'm 99% of the opinion to get a set..

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Originally Posted by milford man View Post
When I did mine I had the new pistons and pins put on the conrods by a company in Fleetwood they are called Redmans. It was just over £30 (now £35). They do a postal service but I dropped them in. Really nice guys. Might be an option? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/conrod-pi...QAAOxyaTxRSQ4r


Regards John
Thanks John.

Yes I remember reading about that and made a note/bookmark. Maybe a good option. Was that £35 for all four removing old and fitting new Pistons if so good value?

I will take them first to a small engineering three-man outfit in Stonehouse a few miles south of Gloucester. See if they can separate those Con-rods for me. I am going there anyway as the Exhaust Pipe to Sump restraint bracket bolt mounting Holes in the Sump has one filled with a sheered off bolt thread. I want that drilled out so maybe two birds with one stone. They have helped me in the past for difficult for me tasks with numerous little engineering jobs and their charges are very reasonable. I fitted a new Exhaust Downpipe Support Bracket Assembly to my daily driver ZT-T ... cost about £28 posted from Rimmer Bros. It's there for a purpose but, all SIX ZT 1.8Ts I've owned had them removed in previous ownership.

There are a few signs of heavy handed treatment and neglect on this car. Missing Nuts and Bolts and even the CRANKSHAFT Sensor on the Bell Housing is held in place by some kind of Masking Tape like stuff. I have a perfect Sensor and will fit that if it all shapes up nicely in the end.

I'm 99% of the opinion to get a set of Liner, Piston, Rings and G-Pins and rebuild this engine. If it proves a waste then so be it. I'm treating this whole exercise as a means to really get to know these K-Series engines. Been working on them for around twenty years now and I like and enjoy doing that. Our trusty MG ZS 1.8 bought new in 2003 is still giving fine daily driver service. Mainly driven by Mrs MGJ who is one of the most un-car enthusiastic folks around. However, she does like driving the MG ZS and says so.

I drive it occasionally and it drives as good now as when I picked it up on day one new. Proving even more reliable than the 1.6LX Rover Montego it replaced we had for thirteen years from 1990 until 2003. That was a very reliable car too.
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