Tourer Rear Light Securing Bracket Mod - Page 3

Longbridge Loony · 1st July 2013, 08:35

THE king of mods/repairs! Thanks Artic-what a fella!

Dragrad · 24th August 2013, 02:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dragrad

Yet another good post

Let me know when all is done and dusted and I will copy into the How To's

Now compiled into here

Arctic · 24th August 2013, 10:05

I did/have refined these fixings which would make it easier for the member to do him self again i will have to get round and update it a little more, the pics below are the jist of it but will do a pic by pic run through later this evening if i have time cheers Arctic

Rich Wess · 26th February 2014, 12:35

this is a great thread - just what I need as the previous owner bodged the fitting of my nearside light and it appear to be held on with with a single woodscrew into a hole in the metal!

This brings me to the question - my upper screw fitting on the body is present and appear to be some kind of rubber grommet with a metal thread inside. However, the bottom one is missing.... Any thoughts on a suitable replacement for the insert into the body work and also what screw fits? I think I read somewhere it is an M6?

RogerHeinz57 · 26th February 2014, 15:04

Hello Arctic, another brilliant mod, thanks will try this on one that has proper problems with this, regards John.

Arctic · 3rd October 2014, 22:57

The screw ones can also be replaced with rawl plugs, and self tapers thus doing away with the feral spinning if they ever get corroded.

I have at least three sets of the tourer lights spare with strengthened brackets which I must dig out and move on so keep looking in the for sale section

Phil-Hex · 26th August 2015, 14:22

how do the screw holes come out? the bottom one is just spinning when trying to remove the screw and the top one is spinning whilst trying to tighten the top one up

is it just a case of brute force and hit them till they fall out or is there a best practice way of getting them out?

why do 2 minute jobs always turn into 2 hour ones????

and many thanks for the How Toos

steve811 · 26th August 2015, 16:19

Unfortunately Rover in their wisdom decided to use "rivnuts" for these. Basically these are metal tubes with threads in, when fitted with the right tool, the tube I squashed and fixed, and the threaded insert is there permanently. In some areas when that threaded portion rotates you can get at the back of it to hold it with mole grips to remove the screw, then remove the insert and replace it. On the tourer, there is no access, so you are stuffed!

What I did was cut through the screw, then using a dremel cut a slot in the rivnut so I could hold it whilst I drilled it out and replaced it with a bigger size! IF you can get the screw out you can try to compress the tube so the nut will tighten, but often once they start spinning they are useless as the hole is too big.

See here on how to fit one without the tool, or tighten an existing one:

http://home.btconnect.com/astro-site...ng_rivnuts.htm

Phil-Hex · 26th August 2015, 16:48

thanks Steve, i was hoping it wasnt a rivnut (dunno what i was hoping for!) its not too bad though if i can hopefully get the top one to retighten up, the bottom one can stay as it is as the light bracket 'hooks' over it....... anything is better than it was

steve811 · 26th August 2015, 18:04

On mine I ended up holding them in one place and drilling them out, then replacing them with 8mm rivnuts. If the go again I am going to cut a small access hole in the rear panel, and do it properly with a captive caged nut!

1st July 2013, 08:35	#21
Longbridge Loony Loves to post MG6 GT SE & Rover 25 IE Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 409 Thanks: 112 Thanked 23 Times in 14 Posts	THE king of mods/repairs! Thanks Artic-what a fella! __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Above all it's a Rover

26th February 2014, 15:04	#25
RogerHeinz57 I really should get out more....... A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 2,530 Thanks: 408 Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts	Tourer rear lamp mod. Hello Arctic, another brilliant mod, thanks will try this on one that has proper problems with this, regards John.

3rd October 2014, 22:57	#26
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,699 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	The screw ones can also be replaced with rawl plugs, and self tapers thus doing away with the feral spinning if they ever get corroded. I have at least three sets of the tourer lights spare with strengthened brackets which I must dig out and move on so keep looking in the for sale section __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

26th February 2014, 12:35	#24
Rich Wess Regular poster MG ZT-T CDTi Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Bristol Posts: 83 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts	this is a great thread - just what I need as the previous owner bodged the fitting of my nearside light and it appear to be held on with with a single woodscrew into a hole in the metal! This brings me to the question - my upper screw fitting on the body is present and appear to be some kind of rubber grommet with a metal thread inside. However, the bottom one is missing.... Any thoughts on a suitable replacement for the insert into the body work and also what screw fits? I think I read somewhere it is an M6?

26th August 2015, 14:22	#27
Phil-Hex Gets stuck in Typhoon ZT-T CDTi Bittersweet 135 TF Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Ribble Valley Posts: 672 Thanks: 226 Thanked 141 Times in 117 Posts	how do the screw holes come out? the bottom one is just spinning when trying to remove the screw and the top one is spinning whilst trying to tighten the top one up is it just a case of brute force and hit them till they fall out or is there a best practice way of getting them out? why do 2 minute jobs always turn into 2 hour ones???? and many thanks for the How Toos

26th August 2015, 16:19	#28
steve811 Banned Rover 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Newport Posts: 1,906 Thanks: 107 Thanked 299 Times in 206 Posts	Unfortunately Rover in their wisdom decided to use "rivnuts" for these. Basically these are metal tubes with threads in, when fitted with the right tool, the tube I squashed and fixed, and the threaded insert is there permanently. In some areas when that threaded portion rotates you can get at the back of it to hold it with mole grips to remove the screw, then remove the insert and replace it. On the tourer, there is no access, so you are stuffed! What I did was cut through the screw, then using a dremel cut a slot in the rivnut so I could hold it whilst I drilled it out and replaced it with a bigger size! IF you can get the screw out you can try to compress the tube so the nut will tighten, but often once they start spinning they are useless as the hole is too big. See here on how to fit one without the tool, or tighten an existing one: http://home.btconnect.com/astro-site...ng_rivnuts.htm

26th August 2015, 16:48	#29
Phil-Hex Gets stuck in Typhoon ZT-T CDTi Bittersweet 135 TF Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Ribble Valley Posts: 672 Thanks: 226 Thanked 141 Times in 117 Posts	thanks Steve, i was hoping it wasnt a rivnut (dunno what i was hoping for!) its not too bad though if i can hopefully get the top one to retighten up, the bottom one can stay as it is as the light bracket 'hooks' over it....... anything is better than it was

26th August 2015, 18:04	#30
steve811 Banned Rover 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Newport Posts: 1,906 Thanks: 107 Thanked 299 Times in 206 Posts	On mine I ended up holding them in one place and drilling them out, then replacing them with 8mm rivnuts. If the go again I am going to cut a small access hole in the rear panel, and do it properly with a captive caged nut!