Remove front seat valance cover with seat in.

Devilish · 1st December 2011, 21:24

This job only takes a few minutes and requires an electrical screwdriver and a 10mm rings panner or 10mm 3/8/" or 1/4" drive socket.

First remove the motor switch covers. Insert screwdriver from above or below a few mm as shown in the pic and lever out until it clicks off. This is the best place to lever off the cover without damaging the microswitch parts underneath the cover.

Pull off the switch cover with your fingers.

The switch cover clicks into place by a castleated type turret shown below. Note the cover has to be replaced the same way, be carefull not to try to push the cover on upside down.

Same method for the recline cover, insert screwdriver a few mm from above or below, or either side as shown below.

The recline switch cover is also held in place by a turret.

The valance cover is held in place by 2 X torx screws and a nut with a 10mm head. Recline the seat back as far as it will go and remove the torx screw shown below. The second torx screw is located further down the back of the valance cover, access is easiest from the rear footwell.

The nut is accessed by raising the seat as high as it will go and tilting the front of the base upwards. Reach behind the valance cover and remove the nut. It can usually be removed using only your fingers if you push against the valance, I only tighten it finger tight by pushing against the valance cover. The bolt the nut goes on is held in place though a plastic tube type mount, whammying up with a spanner or socket may damage the bolt mounting.

Take hold of the cover as shown, (torx screw and nut positions arrowed)

Pull the cover away, no need to yank the cover out, there is plenty of room to unplug the switches. the front cover securing bolt can be seen towards the front of the valance cover.

Lever off the plug to the switch module (I use the scredriver against the retaining tab as shown below)

Same with the memory switch plug

TADA

The only thing I could mention is when pushing the valance cover back into place, is make sure the memory switch loom does not get pushed though the hole in the seat base by the switch module cover. Ensure it rests on the cover as shown.

Arctic · 2nd December 2011, 00:34

Love it 1st class pics also

Shapfell · 7th December 2011, 16:24

That'll come in handy as the pass seat switches are busted on mine.
Just another Q, along the same lines. Where are the heated seats supplied from and are they fused separately?? I think my drivers seat isn't heating though the pass seat defo is.

Devilish · 7th December 2011, 20:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shapfell

That'll come in handy as the pass seat switches are busted on mine.
Just another Q, along the same lines. Where are the heated seats supplied from and are they fused separately?? I think my drivers seat isn't heating though the pass seat defo is.

The HS have a permanent supply on the live side, and are switched on the earth side.

Swap the switch with the passenger side to eliminate the switch
If

Unplug the the power supply plug to the seat.

The orange/white loom wire should give a 12v signal with the ignition on wether the HS is on or off.

The yellow loom wire should give a earth signal when the HS power button is pressed with the ignition on.
If

This will eliminate everything up to the seat.

You can check the small black connector plugs that connect up the elements under the seat. If these are Ok it is either the elements or the thermostat in the seat.

My guess would be the elements or the stat as it is the drivers seat, hopefully after saying that I will be wrong

johnwh74 · 7th December 2011, 21:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Devilish

The HS have a permanent supply on the live side, and are switched on the earth side.

Swap the switch with the passenger side to eliminate the switch
If

Unplug the the power supply plug to the seat.

The orange/white loom wire should give a 12v signal with the ignition on wether the HS is on or off.

The yellow loom wire should give a earth signal when the HS power button is pressed with the ignition on.
If

This will eliminate everything up to the seat.

You can check the small black connector plugs that connect up the elements under the seat. If these are Ok it is either the elements or the thermostat in the seat.

My guess would be the elements or the stat as it is the drivers seat, hopefully after saying that I will be wrong

Mine has gone exactly the same. couldnt of been Amy's seat that didnt heat up then i wouldnt of been so bothered

Martin75 · 10th December 2011, 18:47

Does the memory seat cover plate just clip out?

I want to fit the walnut surround, and have to remove the 'face plate' to locate it.

Devilish · 12th December 2011, 14:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin75

Does the memory seat cover plate just clip out?
.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin75

have to remove the 'face plate'

Sorry Martin I do not understand what you mean by "cover plate" and "face plate".

If you are referring to the valance cover, once the torx screws and nut are removed the cover will pull away. It may not fall out, it will have to be pulled away from the seat because there is a small blade that supports the centre of the valace cover. Although it has a lug shown in the pic below, I do not recommend anything be shoved between the valance cover and the leather cover in an attempt to unclip the blade, just pull the cover away.

Devilish · 12th December 2011, 15:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnwh74

Mine has gone exactly the same. couldnt of been Amy's seat that didnt heat up then i wouldnt of been so bothered

You could always unplug Amy's seat if she gloats about it.

Howie666 · 11th July 2014, 15:54

I realise this is a bit of a thread revival, but I wanted to say a big THANK YOU for this how-to. The passenger seat forward/backward adjuster switch has broken lugs and spins round and round, so this is the reference I will be using to avoid having to pull the entire seat out of the car to repair the switch!
I'm planning on using some small bolts to replace the broken plastic rods that used to stop the switch spinning...

lovema75 · 11th July 2014, 16:00

I have a much simpler method of removal - just get your mother to sit on the edge of the cushion with her full weight instead of passing over it and sitting on the seat base normally.

This will be accompanied by the sound of breaking plastic, and the cover will come off easily in your hand.

Job done.

1st December 2011, 21:24	#1
Devilish Been round the block 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Cannock Posts: 4,126 Thanks: 3 Thanked 189 Times in 121 Posts	Remove front seat valance cover with seat in. This job only takes a few minutes and requires an electrical screwdriver and a 10mm rings panner or 10mm 3/8/" or 1/4" drive socket. First remove the motor switch covers. Insert screwdriver from above or below a few mm as shown in the pic and lever out until it clicks off. This is the best place to lever off the cover without damaging the microswitch parts underneath the cover. Pull off the switch cover with your fingers. The switch cover clicks into place by a castleated type turret shown below. Note the cover has to be replaced the same way, be carefull not to try to push the cover on upside down. Same method for the recline cover, insert screwdriver a few mm from above or below, or either side as shown below. The recline switch cover is also held in place by a turret. The valance cover is held in place by 2 X torx screws and a nut with a 10mm head. Recline the seat back as far as it will go and remove the torx screw shown below. The second torx screw is located further down the back of the valance cover, access is easiest from the rear footwell. The nut is accessed by raising the seat as high as it will go and tilting the front of the base upwards. Reach behind the valance cover and remove the nut. It can usually be removed using only your fingers if you push against the valance, I only tighten it finger tight by pushing against the valance cover. The bolt the nut goes on is held in place though a plastic tube type mount, whammying up with a spanner or socket may damage the bolt mounting. Take hold of the cover as shown, (torx screw and nut positions arrowed) Pull the cover away, no need to yank the cover out, there is plenty of room to unplug the switches. the front cover securing bolt can be seen towards the front of the valance cover. Lever off the plug to the switch module (I use the scredriver against the retaining tab as shown below) Same with the memory switch plug TADA The only thing I could mention is when pushing the valance cover back into place, is make sure the memory switch loom does not get pushed though the hole in the seat base by the switch module cover. Ensure it rests on the cover as shown. __________________ If at first you don't succeed, hide the evidence Last edited by Devilish; 2nd December 2011 at 10:42..

2nd December 2011, 00:34	#2
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,717 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Love it 1st class pics also __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

7th December 2011, 16:24	#3
Shapfell Loves to post Rover 75 Conn SE saloon / MG ZTT cdti auto Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lowestoft Posts: 497 Thanks: 10 Thanked 33 Times in 26 Posts	That'll come in handy as the pass seat switches are busted on mine. Just another Q, along the same lines. Where are the heated seats supplied from and are they fused separately?? I think my drivers seat isn't heating though the pass seat defo is. __________________ Oh well, it's only money...... 2004 Conn SE 1.8 Work so far:- Gerry T, Rad Fan Resistor, Handbrake Compensator, Bonnet Catch Block, Leather Handbrake gaiter, Journey Camera, Sean's DD Unit with Freeview!, Towbar, Rear Sunblind, Smiley!, Headlamp Protectors, Alloy Intake, R75 Brolly, Puddle lights, reversing camera. 2004 Connie CDTi Tourer; replacement for the ZTT.

11th July 2014, 15:54	#9
Howie666 I really should get out more....... MG ZT 190+, Trophy Blue Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Preston Posts: 2,067 Thanks: 1,401 Thanked 309 Times in 195 Posts	I realise this is a bit of a thread revival, but I wanted to say a big THANK YOU for this how-to. The passenger seat forward/backward adjuster switch has broken lugs and spins round and round, so this is the reference I will be using to avoid having to pull the entire seat out of the car to repair the switch! I'm planning on using some small bolts to replace the broken plastic rods that used to stop the switch spinning... __________________ Commission Number 352 To do list: 1. Reversing sensors 1a. Headlights polished - DONE! (Magic Mike ) 2. Auto dip rear view mirror 3. Seats replaced - DONE! (thank you Mischief) 7. Bodywork repainted 8. Inlet manifold changed for a working one - DONE! (Magic Mike )

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10th December 2011, 18:47	#6
Martin75 Loves to post Rover 75 CDti Auto Saloon 2004 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: North Essex Coast Posts: 489 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post	Does the memory seat cover plate just clip out? I want to fit the walnut surround, and have to remove the 'face plate' to locate it.

11th July 2014, 16:00	#10
lovema75 This is my second home 75 Tourer CDT Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Enfield Posts: 3,925 Thanks: 63 Thanked 431 Times in 237 Posts	I have a much simpler method of removal - just get your mother to sit on the edge of the cushion with her full weight instead of passing over it and sitting on the seat base normally. This will be accompanied by the sound of breaking plastic, and the cover will come off easily in your hand. Job done.