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Old 24th March 2017, 12:11   #11
ianbstag
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When I had a similar problem, I got a pair from here

Excellent, quick service, and top quality parts.

One other thing, it could be the brake flexy pipe collapsing internally, so for the sake of a few quid, it might be worth changing these too.

Good luck!
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Old 25th March 2017, 02:18   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldie View Post
Measured the temperature near the calliper with a digital thermometer probe on front and back wheels. Fronts were warmer than the rear and offside front the hottest. Guess it's a sticking caliper.

How, if at all, do the front brakes differ from those of a Rover v6? Are the requisite bits commonly available?
Identical to a 190 at the front. Rears of course totally different.
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Old 26th March 2017, 17:36   #13
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Three journeys this weekend. Saturday morning 10 miles, taking my son swimming. Some spirited driving until burning odour and a bit of smoke. Some steering wheel judder. Off-side front very warm and strong brake-burning smell. Afternoon return journey not exceeding 50 mph no problem and brakes cool. Sunday afternoon, including some foot-down stuff on accelerator and brake, no problem. Maybe I need to use the car more frequently as well as getting the brakes checked.
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Old 26th March 2017, 19:47   #14
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Its quite normal a sticky caliper is helped by regular use.

It wont stop the underlying problem, which will be corrosion of the cylinder, or corrosion/dry slide pins.

Best whip it off, and see how free the slide pins are, grease em up liberally with the right grease, and see how she goes.
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Old 3rd April 2017, 18:07   #15
oldie
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Having driven relatively frequently recently there is still an issue with the off-side front. Below 50 mph all seems well, or insufficiently severe as to generate excessive heat. Above 60 mph then over-heating brakes becomes evident. Attached is a picture of the off-side front disc. I assume a replacement is necessary. Caused by a dodgy calliper?

Any advice re. required bits? Discs from the TwoSixties, MG ZT 190 callipers from Rimmers? Any particular nuts, bolts, pipes etc. I should consider? Assume some bleeding of brakes is required. Now the imponderable question: basic DIY or Garage task? If DIY has anyone definitive advice as to where to position axle stands (clean answers only please).
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Old 3rd April 2017, 19:33   #16
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The last two calipers I've had seize just needed stripping and cleaning out.

Wasn't a 260 though, just an old stone crusher.
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Old 5th April 2017, 08:25   #17
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You should never continue driving with a seized caliper thinking/hoping it will fix itself! Had you taken it off and cleaned/ replaced it right away it might have saved you new discs, caliper and new break fluid.

Discs get very hot and loose breaking power plus it will break other parts.
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Old 9th April 2017, 08:46   #18
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Front brakes are the same as the 190. Rear brakes are unique to the V8's.

Hope you get the issue sorted soon.

Cheers

Tony
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Old 13th April 2017, 19:20   #19
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New "260's" grooved and drilled discs; thank-you Tim, a pleasure to meet you. New pads, cleaned callipers and replacement flexi-pipes. Seems the pipes may have been the primary problem necessitating the other work. Used MJS in Littlehampton, recommended by Bob (of Banana and Bear fame). Transpires a prudent decision. They had some difficulty in obtaining the correct flexi-pipe for one side. The factors had two pipes with the same part number and repeatedly sent the wrong one. I used my time more satisfactorily. Drove home in a spirited manner and the brakes remained cool. Suppose it might be worthwhile having the rear pipes checked in the near future. The car had been idle for some time before I bought. What will be the next surprise I wonder?
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