Full suspension overhaul illustrated

T16 · 5th June 2012, 10:04

Jeeesus, I thought I was OCD.

Well done Jim, thats a fine lot of work and looks great.

Thats far too much grease for the top bearings though, it will just attract dirt!

They only need a good smear!

Jim Jamieson · 5th June 2012, 15:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

Jeeesus, I thought I was OCD.

Well done Jim, thats a fine lot of work and looks great.

Thats far too much grease for the top bearings though, it will just attract dirt!

They only need a good smear!

Thanks Ross and to all who have viewed and posted but of course the excess grease was wiped away, photo was only to illustrate the method I used. Bearing is now full of fresh grease therefore not allowing any water or dirt to enter.

JYJ

Unclefista · 5th June 2012, 18:38

Hammer and chisel sounds like hard work to me Jim, have you considered electrolysis ?

It's almost effort-free and is perfect for calipers

Jim Jamieson · 10th June 2012, 23:52

[QUOTE=Unclefista;1020596]Hammer and chisel sounds like hard work to me Jim, have you considered electrolysis ?

It's almost effort-free and is perfect for calipers

Very interesting, I have actally noticed this method a few times but never really bothered about it, but I must try it out.
Pity I've just spent days chipping away and have no rust left to remove but I'm sure there will be another time.

Meanwhile I'm still at it with the sub frame now painted up and looking like new and just waiting on some parts arriving to finish the job off.

JYJ

Jim Jamieson · 12th June 2012, 23:03

In the process of de rusting the sub frame I have come accross a potential rust problem area.

On the photo above you will notice, just under the point where the anti roll bar is mounted that I have opened up a small area. This was full of rust as it appears there was a lighter guage metal bracket under the heavier one. I really do not see the need for it as the entire box section was blocked up with the decaying metal of this lighter bracket.

I chipped it all away and when painting ensured there was plenty of paint to seal it properly.

As I had already removed the sub frame with the lower arms intact I subsequently could not free off the inner ball joint from the sub frame.
I have since found that it is best to use the vehicles own weight to free off this joint, however as the ball joints were surprisingly still in good condition even at 118k miles this was not a problem.

I still wanted to re grease the old joints and to ensure there was no dirt inside them as one of the rubbers had split.
The outer ones were easy to remove, clean and re grease with new rubbers fitted.
The inner ones were a little more awkward to do but after doing the first one it was easy to do the other.

This is the inner joint before starting showing the rubber retaining clips in place.

Carefully remove the larger clip which is coiled, over the top of the rubber as shown below.

Then flip the rubber inside out to gain access for cleaning out the old grease as shown below.

Then it's just a case of appying some fresh grease into the ball joint, flipping the rubber back over then re fitting the coiled securing clip.
Finally clean up any excess grease.

I have now got the sub frame built up with the anti roll bar and new rear bushes as supplied by "Jules".

I just had to give the lower arms a little spit and polish to make them look good so here is the complete unit ready for re fitting to the car.

I have also rebuilt the front struts using new spring protectors.
Here they are along with the old spring protectors which I will keep as spares for now.

I have also removed 10 years of tar etc from the wheel arch liners which will be re fitted with some new studs as some of the old ones simply broke off when removing.

I will now get the front suspension re fitted back into the car in readiness for getting it back onto its wheels.

JYJ

Dragrad · 12th June 2012, 23:26

Amazing work

How to updated BTW

Jim Jamieson · 14th June 2012, 22:30

I managed to get the front suspension refitted to the car today.
I just placed the sub frame on cardboard on the ground ( the same way as I did with the rear) then slid it under the car.
Then by easing it up on the front (centre) and each side a little at a time raising it on blocks until it was close enough to enter the studs.

I also refitted the front struts and drop links. A tip on this is to cut approx 1/4 inch of thread off the top of each drop link then it is easy to hold a ring spanner on the nut and be able to remove it when tight.
These drop links have far too much thread on them and the ring spanner gets jammed on because of the excess thread.
Another warning is beware you don't do as I did by pushing one of the rubber seals off its location when using a spanner to hold the squared part to prevent it turning. It took me almost 1/2 hour to get the rubber seal back into place.

The whole job took me a leisurely 5 hours but I have still to attach the brakes as I am waiting on the outcome of new back plates.

I have also still to re fit the exhaust as it requires some welding whilst it is off the car.

It's been a long slog but the car now looks almost like new on the underside and already I have started on the next item, replacing the duff cooling fan with a Kenlowe convertion.
Of course me being me I will be cleaning everything up whilst the front end is off and at the same time I will attempt to get the auto headlamp levelers checked out.

I will post some final photos soon.

JYJ

5th June 2012, 18:38	#3
Unclefista Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Bradford Posts: 1,478 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	Hammer and chisel sounds like hard work to me Jim, have you considered electrolysis ? It's almost effort-free and is perfect for calipers __________________ Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra. Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath. At night the ice-weasels come... http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/6...77671f80_n.jpg

12th June 2012, 23:26	#6
Dragrad This is my second home *None DROWNED** Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cardigan Posts: 33,339 Thanks: 1,257 Thanked 1,664 Times in 1,081 Posts	Amazing work How to updated BTW __________________ Andrew Ich Dien Problem solving is... lateral thinking SEARCH FIRST ...ASK LATER...

5th June 2012, 10:04	#1
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Jeeesus, I thought I was OCD. Well done Jim, thats a fine lot of work and looks great. Thats far too much grease for the top bearings though, it will just attract dirt! They only need a good smear!

10th June 2012, 23:52	#4
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	[QUOTE=Unclefista;1020596]Hammer and chisel sounds like hard work to me Jim, have you considered electrolysis ? It's almost effort-free and is perfect for calipers Very interesting, I have actally noticed this method a few times but never really bothered about it, but I must try it out. Pity I've just spent days chipping away and have no rust left to remove but I'm sure there will be another time. Meanwhile I'm still at it with the sub frame now painted up and looking like new and just waiting on some parts arriving to finish the job off. JYJ

12th June 2012, 23:03	#5
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	In the process of de rusting the sub frame I have come accross a potential rust problem area. On the photo above you will notice, just under the point where the anti roll bar is mounted that I have opened up a small area. This was full of rust as it appears there was a lighter guage metal bracket under the heavier one. I really do not see the need for it as the entire box section was blocked up with the decaying metal of this lighter bracket. I chipped it all away and when painting ensured there was plenty of paint to seal it properly. As I had already removed the sub frame with the lower arms intact I subsequently could not free off the inner ball joint from the sub frame. I have since found that it is best to use the vehicles own weight to free off this joint, however as the ball joints were surprisingly still in good condition even at 118k miles this was not a problem. I still wanted to re grease the old joints and to ensure there was no dirt inside them as one of the rubbers had split. The outer ones were easy to remove, clean and re grease with new rubbers fitted. The inner ones were a little more awkward to do but after doing the first one it was easy to do the other. This is the inner joint before starting showing the rubber retaining clips in place. Carefully remove the larger clip which is coiled, over the top of the rubber as shown below. Then flip the rubber inside out to gain access for cleaning out the old grease as shown below. Then it's just a case of appying some fresh grease into the ball joint, flipping the rubber back over then re fitting the coiled securing clip. Finally clean up any excess grease. I have now got the sub frame built up with the anti roll bar and new rear bushes as supplied by "Jules". I just had to give the lower arms a little spit and polish to make them look good so here is the complete unit ready for re fitting to the car. I have also rebuilt the front struts using new spring protectors. Here they are along with the old spring protectors which I will keep as spares for now. I have also removed 10 years of tar etc from the wheel arch liners which will be re fitted with some new studs as some of the old ones simply broke off when removing. I will now get the front suspension re fitted back into the car in readiness for getting it back onto its wheels. JYJ

14th June 2012, 22:30	#7
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	I managed to get the front suspension refitted to the car today. I just placed the sub frame on cardboard on the ground ( the same way as I did with the rear) then slid it under the car. Then by easing it up on the front (centre) and each side a little at a time raising it on blocks until it was close enough to enter the studs. I also refitted the front struts and drop links. A tip on this is to cut approx 1/4 inch of thread off the top of each drop link then it is easy to hold a ring spanner on the nut and be able to remove it when tight. These drop links have far too much thread on them and the ring spanner gets jammed on because of the excess thread. Another warning is beware you don't do as I did by pushing one of the rubber seals off its location when using a spanner to hold the squared part to prevent it turning. It took me almost 1/2 hour to get the rubber seal back into place. The whole job took me a leisurely 5 hours but I have still to attach the brakes as I am waiting on the outcome of new back plates. I have also still to re fit the exhaust as it requires some welding whilst it is off the car. It's been a long slog but the car now looks almost like new on the underside and already I have started on the next item, replacing the duff cooling fan with a Kenlowe convertion. Of course me being me I will be cleaning everything up whilst the front end is off and at the same time I will attempt to get the auto headlamp levelers checked out. I will post some final photos soon. JYJ