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19th October 2019, 21:58 | #21 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
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Pete, please note.
I am sorry, I cannot let these remarks remain uncorrected.
No it isn't. There is a procedure quoted by the manufacturer about which you might have read. Quote:
Quote:
Simon
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20th October 2019, 08:39 | #22 |
I really should get out more.......
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This time Simon and I agree, at least regarding the initial filling sequence, our latest V6 was anything but self-bleeding. (post 7). I can however accept that it should be self-bleeding and purge the system of air once filled but now we’re talking about minute quantities of air. Perhaps Kaiser meant under normal operation?
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20th October 2019, 12:58 | #23 |
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When everyone says the fan should drop the temperature to 95 quickly mine always takes about a minute- minute and half even when the cooling system was working properly.
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20th October 2019, 13:10 | #24 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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It depends how "quickly" is defined. I haven't timed my car but I'd judge that your quoted one to one and a half minutes isn't too wide of the mark. The official temperature for the fan to stop running is 96 degrees not 95.
Remember also Pete that your cooling system is not perfectly sealed. This will cause temperature instability. When you carry out the necessary repairs you will notice an improvement. Simon
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20th October 2019, 13:16 | #25 | |
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Quote:
If the system was stone cold on both occasions, I'd like to hear an explanation of that. TC |
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20th October 2019, 13:31 | #26 |
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Yes stone cold on both occasions there wasn't an hiss when i undid the expansion tank cap nor was there any bubbles or smelling of exhaust gases. Iv had a combustion dye test done on the coolant not long ago and it stayed blue.
Fan on my car cuts off at 95 Last edited by racing green rover; 20th October 2019 at 13:41.. |
20th October 2019, 13:59 | #27 |
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The coolant level change really does need explaining.
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20th October 2019, 14:22 | #28 |
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Yes it does i cant do nothing until the replacement bottom hose comes next week so I'll update when I've bled it again. Although once i undid the expansion cap when the engine was still hot and there was no pressure in the tank even when it was warm
Last edited by racing green rover; 20th October 2019 at 14:28.. |
20th October 2019, 15:14 | #29 | |
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Quote:
The bleed screw is plastic. They get tired. Luckily some people seem to get thermostat housings and other plastic bits that will never, ever break. For others, you might not be so lucky. As for the temperature in town, it has a lot to do with ambient temperatures. In some cases with the heater on, the fan might not come on at all. As for the temperatures you can see, take my word for it, you do see 102 to 105. If the fan triggers at 100, it does not mean you will never see over 100.
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20th October 2019, 15:27 | #30 | |
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Quote:
Eventually I found the problem, namely two minuscule holes in the two metal pipes in front of the cooling system. They were really tiny, only really a small spot of rust, and they did not leak at all times. They must have sprayed a fine mist that I did not notice once the engine was started and got up to temperature. I bypassed the oil cooler and the two pipes, and the problem was gone. I later removed the oil cooler all together. I thought at that stage that it was a head gasket! It was luckily not.
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