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Old 19th October 2019, 17:55   #21
T-Cut
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
TC - another thought occurs: should the filter be taken out of the tank and cleaned?
It's not necessary if there's no specific issue with blockage from a major contamination. There's no way to clean it anyway and there's no renewal schedule either. The design provides for 'lifetime' service.

In the earlier system (which I think you have), the filter element itself isn't renewable. You have to replace the filter module complete, which is inordinatley expensive.

TC
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Old 20th October 2019, 09:46   #22
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It's not necessary if there's no specific issue with blockage from a major contamination. There's no way to clean it anyway and there's no renewal schedule either. The design provides for 'lifetime' service.

In the earlier system (which I think you have), the filter element itself isn't renewable. You have to replace the filter module complete, which is inordinatley expensive.

TC
Ok, thanks TC, I'll leave it alone then. (I was hoping you'd say that - saves me yet more work on this refurb ).

Yes, mine's a 2002 75 Mk1 - tank assy is 2001 I think.
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Old 20th October 2019, 10:24   #23
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Yes, mine's a 2002 75 Mk1 - tank assy is 2001 I think.
You can easily confirm it. Lift off the rear seat and open the LH floor hatch. You'll see the filter top. The earlier module has two plastic lifting loops on top. The later, problematic cap is a slightly domed top with a honeycomb pattern.


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Old 21st October 2019, 10:48   #24
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You can easily confirm it. Lift off the rear seat and open the LH floor hatch. You'll see the filter top. The earlier module has two plastic lifting loops on top. The later, problematic cap is a slightly domed top with a honeycomb pattern.

TC
Mine's definitely the early type then, here it is out of the car.



I wondered what those two rings/loops were for.

(For reference, filter part numbers are here - https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=48414)

PS. It's amazing how difficult it is to get all the fuel out of one of these tanks - I've tried everything bar taking the pump & filter off and there's still some in there.

Last edited by Blink; 21st October 2019 at 11:05.. Reason: Link
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Old 21st October 2019, 18:42   #25
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Hi All,

Returning to the original thread...

I managed to replace the o ring which was leaking, many thanks to everyones help.

In the process I managed to break the T piece on the breather hose, I've used an 8mm t piece and some tape to make a temporary bodge, but obviously would like to do it properly.

Rimmers only seem to offer the whole breather hose assembly, which seems a waste as the hoses look to be ok.

Does anyone know where I could get the correct size t piece, looks around 10mm?

Phil
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Old 21st October 2019, 19:07   #26
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There are lots of plastic or brass T-pieces to suit this on eBay. Whether it is a 10mm or an 8mm size needs to be double checked by measuring it. Remember it's the hose bore that's important.


Example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-Brass...IAAOSwHnFVkouQ


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Old 23rd October 2019, 14:10   #27
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Thanks for that.

Ordered 10mm brass t piece from Ebay, which arrived today.

Five minutes with a hot air gun to soften the hose and slide the t piece on, fits perfectly.

Many thanks for everyone's advice.

Phil
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Old 24th October 2019, 08:51   #28
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Thanks for that.

Ordered 10mm brass t piece from Ebay, which arrived today.

Five minutes with a hot air gun to soften the hose and slide the t piece on, fits perfectly.

Many thanks for everyone's advice.

Phil
Can you see what's caused the nylon T piece one to leak?
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Old 24th October 2019, 14:15   #29
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It was very brittle and took little twisting pressure to break.
When I was removing the remainder of the broken t piece, it was crumbling into little bits.
I'm assuming it was caused by aging plastic in a hot environment, trapped between the manifold and the plastic cover, it is a very hot environment.

The existing hoses seem supple and are not breaking when twisted, so I am hoping the brass replacement will be a long term fix.
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Old 25th October 2019, 10:30   #30
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Originally Posted by chillyphil View Post
It was very brittle and took little twisting pressure to break.
When I was removing the remainder of the broken t piece, it was crumbling into little bits.
I'm assuming it was caused by aging plastic in a hot environment, trapped between the manifold and the plastic cover, it is a very hot environment.

The existing hoses seem supple and are not breaking when twisted, so I am hoping the brass replacement will be a long term fix.
I don't trust those plastic t-pieces either. There's another one close by (opposite end of inlet manifold) - it's under the acoustic cover in a coolant hose near the engine lifting eye. That one gets pretty hot too. The third one - in the small hose from the expansion tank - isn't in such a hot place.

They should all be brass really - it's a much better idea.
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