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20th October 2019, 20:14 | #1 |
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Connis SE +drivers pack Moonstone green Join Date: Jul 2007
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Coolent temperature sensor
The temperature gauge on my 2.5 Conney has started to wander instead of staying mid point, most of the time it is reading low then moves up to normal but then slowly moves down. The car runs fine and coolent level is correct, also when I turn the ignition on the fuel gauge goes full scale then drops to correct level but the temp gauge does not move. I may be wrong but I am sure they both used to go full scale. Any one had this problem or an idea what is wrong, I am considering replacing the sensor but it looks like the inlet manifold will have to be removed to get to it. Thanks Paul S
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21st October 2019, 13:12 | #2 |
Precise
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Temp guage does not swing, but the integral leds do illunminate and go out.
Use the IPK diagnostics to check actual coolant temperature, if this shows the same swings then suspect sensor but I doubt it will. |
21st October 2019, 13:40 | #3 |
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I agree with Ken that this is a useful test although in theory a faulty sensor would cause the temperature gauge to remain in the 'cold' position, the high temperature warning light to illuminate and the radiator fan to run continuously at high speed. If the digital coolant temperature displays the same readings as the gauge, the problem might be that your thermostat is faulty. Simon
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21st October 2019, 13:45 | #4 |
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I took the car out for a run and monitored the temp gauge readings, when driving in town below 30mph and stop start driving in traffic gauge reads steady mid scale above 40 mph constant speed driving gauge between quater and mid scale. driving at a steady 70 mph in clear air gauge reads quater scale, I am starting to suspect my thermostat is stuck open also the car appears to take longer to warm up.
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21st October 2019, 13:58 | #5 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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I agree with your diagnosis Paul. Will you be doing the replacement yourself?
Simon
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21st October 2019, 16:05 | #6 |
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21st October 2019, 16:20 | #7 |
Vis Whiz
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Exactly the same symptoms as mine, I changed the TStat 4 days ago and then had a 230 mile round trip to the Nano meet and back. No more problems. I also use the keyhole method, ( well i would wouldn't i as i was one of the first to be brave and try it this way). Have to say that was quite a few years ago now and although the stat never leaked it did get sluggish hence the change.
A little advice is to purchase the full kit and original spec equipment. Another bit of advice is not to cross thread the bolt that holds the stat and elbow in place, if you do then prepare to swear a lot, have to grind down one of your taps from your best set to be able to get in there straight and re-tap the thread. Oh and have a copious supply of everplast to hand...
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Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident Last edited by stocktake; 21st October 2019 at 17:38.. |
21st October 2019, 16:59 | #8 | |
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Quote:
Another advantage of using the full workshop procedure is that, with the manifold chamber off the car, you can remove the cam cover on the R.H. bank and clear the breather orifice if not done recently. You can also take the opportunity to check or renew the R.H. bank sparking plugs. Simon
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21st October 2019, 18:43 | #9 |
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The stat housing I was sold from DMGR is stamped PEN100510 and came has a three part kit with the straight and curved pipes which have new "O" rings. Do I need to dump this and buy a new one ?.
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21st October 2019, 19:16 | #10 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Quote:
Simon
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