Defeated!

[SirRustalot]

After lots of swearing, a few injuries and constant interruptions in the pursuit of removing my gearbox to do the slave cylinder, I have to admit defeat. It's like a sick joke that keeps on giving me a new punchline.

Thanks to a recalcitrant hub and a resulting front lower arm that had to be destroyed (was being replaced anyway) I've been forced down the path of removing the subframe. However, the bolts to the steering rack on the offside are just impossible for me to access. Thinking that things would be easier if I remove the remains of the lower arm, it's stuck fast on the subframe, the bush mounting bolts are too tight and with no access to them unless I remove the anti-roll bar, they'e going nowhere. The lower bolt which should just come out after a few sharp taps upwards is also stuck fast. I tried to remove the anti-roll bar, but the bolts, although they undid for a few threads, have now decided that they're staying put.

I gave everything a Titanic drenching in WD40 over a few days but to no avail. For the first time in my motoring mechanical history I have to say I'm beaten!!

I love, nay, delight in a challenge but, seriously, and I don't mean this in a flippant, banterish way, I'm a few reluctant bolts away from breaking the damn thing. It's really, really getting me down. In fact, I'm miserable. My wife is worried about me 'cos she thinks I'm going to weigh myself down with the spare engine block and throw myself off a bridge into some deep water.

Advice or help from a local member would be highly welcome. I'm, frankly, happy to pay someone to do this now since life in general is getting in the way and not having my car on the road is adding to that particular angst.

Save me!!

[kbonney88]

Sit down and have a brew.. and try not to get stressed about it.. I know its easy to say.

I think you should assess the situation and start again a fresh with your initial plan. as you should not need to take off the wishbones..

and the Steering rack bolts should be accessible.. I cant remember having any probs.. ??

BUT - if you need to remove the centre wishbone/arm mount, make sure the car is on blocks or axle stands, and put the nut back on until its on a few threads, then put the jack (trolley jack) under the nut and jack the car up.. just do this until it takes the weight, and lifts the car very slightly from the blocks or axle stand. now give the wishbone a whack from the wheelarch - side on) with a hammer (and piece of nylon or something like that), that should break the bond between the wishbone mount and subframe. if it doesn't hit the subframe in the same area.. works for me everytime.
- be careful..

Id pop round to help you, but i am very far away..

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by kbonney88

Sit down and have a brew.. and try not to get stressed about it.. I know its easy to say.

I think you should assess the situation and start again a fresh with your initial plan. as you should not need to take off the wishbones..

and the Steering rack bolts should be accessible.. I cant remember having any probs.. ??

BUT - if you need to remove the centre wishbone/arm mount, make sure the car is on blocks or axle stands, and put the nut back on until its on a few threads, then put the jack (trolley jack) under the nut and jack the car up.. just do this until it takes the weight, and lifts the car very slightly from the blocks or axle stand. now give the wishbone a whack from the wheelarch - side on) with a hammer (and piece of nylon or something like that), that should break the bond between the wishbone mount and subframe. if it doesn't hit the subframe in the same area.. works for me everytime.
- be careful..

Id pop round to help you, but i am very far away..

Easy for you to say Kev, swanning about in the sun

Brian

[kbonney88]

lol... cheeky..

[Avulon]

I'd also add forget WD40 it's no good if something is corroded in place. You need two things, proper penetrating oil such as 'Plus Gas' and a blowtorch, a long breaker bar, and a very good socket. Well OK that was 4 things but I was hoping you'd already have the breaker bar and socket...

Proper penetrating oil and heat work very well at getting stubborn bolts to move when accompanied by a 2 foot long breaker bar. I sweated for two days trying to get my front strut off, and then went and bought a blow torch to add to the plus gas already in use and then it started to move.

I must admit I'm a little worried by :

'I tried to remove the anti-roll bar, but the bolts, although they undid for a few threads, have now decided that they're staying put.'

I hope you don't mean that the just spin but don't undo? but rather that they just won't turn any further (in which case, blow torch and penetrating oil...).

On thinking about it it's possible that in undoing the anti-roll bar bolts a couple of threads what has happened is that the other end of the bolt which was possibly exposed to the elements and so corroded has now dragged that corrosion into the threads (I haven't looked at those bolts myself). If that is the case then do them back up if you can and get a wire brush on the back end and lots more oil on them from both ends and try again.

[okenora]

forget the bush mounting bolts, get the arm free, with brute force (lump hammer and really long pry bar) then pull the arm out of the bush. Now access to the front bush bolt is clear.

Off side 13mm for rack are accessible with a 3/8" ratchet, small extension and socket from underneath, or a 1/2" ratchet and deep 13mm socket, tight squeeze but possible. Go at them from the nearside and if I remember it right at least one (top one?) is a quarter turn at a time to remove, no room to spin ratchet.

[Number 6]

Originally Posted by Avulon

I'd also add forget WD40 it's no good if something is corroded in place. You need two things, proper penetrating oil such as 'Plus Gas' and a blowtorch, a long breaker bar, and a very good socket. Well OK that was 4 things but I was hoping you'd already have the breaker bar and socket...

Proper penetrating oil and heat work very well at getting stubborn bolts to move when accompanied by a 2 foot long breaker bar. I sweated for two days trying to get my front strut off, and then went and bought a blow torch to add to the plus gas already in use and then it started to move.

I must admit I'm a little worried by :

'I tried to remove the anti-roll bar, but the bolts, although they undid for a few threads, have now decided that they're staying put.'

I hope you don't mean that the just spin but don't undo? but rather that they just won't turn any further (in which case, blow torch and penetrating oil...).

On thinking about it it's possible that in undoing the anti-roll bar bolts a couple of threads what has happened is that the other end of the bolt which was possibly exposed to the elements and so corroded has now dragged that corrosion into the threads (I haven't looked at those bolts myself). If that is the case then do them back up if you can and get a wire brush on the back end and lots more oil on them from both ends and try again.

Have to Agree WD40 is not a release agent it is only good for cleaning electrical contacts and dispel moisture.Use Plus-Gas and the afore mentioned tools

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by SirRustalot

After lots of swearing, a few injuries and constant interruptions in the pursuit of removing my gearbox to do the slave cylinder, I have to admit defeat. It's like a sick joke that keeps on giving me a new punchline.

Thanks to a recalcitrant hub and a resulting front lower arm that had to be destroyed (was being replaced anyway) I've been forced down the path of removing the subframe. However, the bolts to the steering rack on the offside are just impossible for me to access. Thinking that things would be easier if I remove the remains of the lower arm, it's stuck fast on the subframe, the bush mounting bolts are too tight and with no access to them unless I remove the anti-roll bar, they'e going nowhere. The lower bolt which should just come out after a few sharp taps upwards is also stuck fast. I tried to remove the anti-roll bar, but the bolts, although they undid for a few threads, have now decided that they're staying put.

I gave everything a Titanic drenching in WD40 over a few days but to no avail. For the first time in my motoring mechanical history I have to say I'm beaten!!

I love, nay, delight in a challenge but, seriously, and I don't mean this in a flippant, banterish way, I'm a few reluctant bolts away from breaking the damn thing. It's really, really getting me down. In fact, I'm miserable. My wife is worried about me 'cos she thinks I'm going to weigh myself down with the spare engine block and throw myself off a bridge into some deep water.

Advice or help from a local member would be highly welcome. I'm, frankly, happy to pay someone to do this now since life in general is getting in the way and not having my car on the road is adding to that particular angst.

Save me!!

It is not that difficult. It is best to find a nice quiet place, where you don't have to many people filtering past. They have the most irritating tendency to interfere, which might put paid to the whole effort.
As for the water, it need not be deep, a couple of meters normally suffice, but make a mental note of the fastening point of the rope to the heavy item you want to use and also where you attach. That length should be less than the depth of the water, in order to guarantee success. Also use quality materials of sufficient strength. Lastly pay attention to the knot you use.
I'm sorry I am so far away, or I would be able to physically assist.

[SirRustalot]

Thanks fellas.

I have a private garden/drive. It's just interruptions from family etc. Shouldn't grudge them it, really.

I have all the forementioned tools except Plus Gas. I've used the stuff before and it's wonderful but only had WD40 handy which has sufficed up until now. I've used the mother of all breaker bars on many of the troublesome bolts/nuts with great success but it's getting access to the ones mentioned in my original post that's causing me the grief. I've never EVER given up on a problem but I almost came close today. Fat lady singing, and all that.

As for the rack bolts, they're still turning it's just, as was rightly suspected, the corrosion has been drawn up into the thread. I did wire brush them beforehand, as I do with any bolt that's vulnerable to the elements and needs removing, but clearly not enough on this occasion.

Am I right in thinking that once I remove the rack bolts and secure it, the subrame is ready to drop out? It's secured by a couple of jacks but all bolts, bar the middle ones, are out. Six in total, I believe, must be removed, plus the lower engine mount through bolt and, of course, the four rack bolts. Am I missing something? If the above is true, then I'm four bolts away from seeing light at the end of the tunnel, comforted by other's experiences of removing them. I must just be making it difficult for myself, is all.

After a day of family stuff (took the lad out on the bike for a countryside razz) and a bit of alcohol-based reflection afterwards, I'm going to have another crack at it tomorrow evening. What what!

*Straightens monocle, pours a stiff brandy, stands to attention and salutes stiffly in Capt. Mainwaring fashion*

[DAS68]

Originally Posted by SirRustalot

Thanks fellas.

I have a private garden/drive. It's just interruptions from family etc. Shouldn't grudge them it, really.

I have all the forementioned tools except Plus Gas. I've used the stuff before and it's wonderful but only had WD40 handy which has sufficed up until now. I've used the mother of all breaker bars on many of the troublesome bolts/nuts with great success but it's getting access to the ones mentioned in my original post that's causing me the grief. I've never EVER given up on a problem but I almost came close today. Fat lady singing, and all that.

As for the rack bolts, they're still turning it's just, as was rightly suspected, the corrosion has been drawn up into the thread. I did wire brush them beforehand, as I do with any bolt that's vulnerable to the elements and needs removing, but clearly not enough on this occasion.

Am I right in thinking that once I remove the rack bolts and secure it, the subrame is ready to drop out? It's secured by a couple of jacks but all bolts, bar the middle ones, are out. Six in total, I believe, must be removed, plus the lower engine mount through bolt and, of course, the four rack bolts. Am I missing something? If the above is true, then I'm four bolts away from seeing light at the end of the tunnel, comforted by other's experiences of removing them. I must just be making it difficult for myself, is all.

After a day of family stuff (took the lad out on the bike for a countryside razz) and a bit of alcohol-based reflection afterwards, I'm going to have another crack at it tomorrow evening. What what!

*Straightens monocle, pours a stiff brandy, stands to attention and salutes stiffly in Capt. Mainwaring fashion*

I went in from the wheel arch on the passenger side for the rack bolt but I needed one of those universal sockets that allow you to use it at funny angels, not sure what they are called and an extension bar or two. Also what helped were the ratchet spanners on the rack bolts, a blow blow touch is a must and a very large hammer and a very large friend to use it, I am short and stocky and like to lift weights and it tested me move the Lower ball joint pinch bolts.

Why not just pay Andy Willi to finish the job if you feel it's getting to you so bad, life's to short mate