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Old 31st October 2018, 20:42   #11
Dorchester2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Have you had the bumper off and checked all the suggestions posted up?
Not yet, I hadn't enough time today. But I shall have a first try with battery & LSM disconnection before going further ahead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
I mentioned it as there was no logical reason for my experience other than “gremlins”. I don’t know how many times I’ve read of others experiencing weird electrical issues, normally solved by half an hour battery disconnect. While it might be a true electrical issue, I think I’d try the battery disconnect first and then unplug the LSM (light switch module) a couple of times (only two or three screws) and if that doesn’t solve things then off with the bumper which is not as difficult as it would seem.
Regards
It may be a good bet to begin with before taking off lots of bits & pieces haphazardly.
I am rather keen on solving problems methodically.

Regarding taking off the bumper no problem: I'd already done it twice!

Last question: could it be a testing method allowing to define the failure more finely?
Via the computer or an external device plugged on the OBD?
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Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto Connie born 1 July 1999, 24 kOhms resistor, 10 kOhms manual starter, full E85, modified airbox, full derestricted SS exhaust line, power & torque remap -> 202 bhp
  • This vehicle was the 7,517th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
  • This vehicle was the 1,190th 75 2.5 V6 Contemporary to be made out of 8,214
  • This vehicle was the 2,032nd 75 in Atlantic Blue Pearlescent (code: JEY) to be made out of 2,572 Atlantic Blue Pearlescent 75s
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Old 31st October 2018, 21:00   #12
Dorchester2
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Regarding the fuses, no useful lead of any failure: on my early model (1999), there's only one 5A fuse running all the exterior lights, the #40, as it appears on my British owner's handbook (impossible to find any in French unfortunately).

Fuse problem can easily be confusing because it appears that the pattern had been modified afterwards.
For example the diagram given by Haynes is different from mine, because it looks following the Longbridge modifications, as I can see in another January 2003 handbook I've got as well.
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Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto Connie born 1 July 1999, 24 kOhms resistor, 10 kOhms manual starter, full E85, modified airbox, full derestricted SS exhaust line, power & torque remap -> 202 bhp
  • This vehicle was the 7,517th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
  • This vehicle was the 1,190th 75 2.5 V6 Contemporary to be made out of 8,214
  • This vehicle was the 2,032nd 75 in Atlantic Blue Pearlescent (code: JEY) to be made out of 2,572 Atlantic Blue Pearlescent 75s
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Old 31st October 2018, 22:59   #13
Mike Noc
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Originally Posted by Dorchester2 View Post
I am rather keen on solving problems methodically.
Couldn't agree more, and if it was me, the next methodical step would be to whip the bumper off and check all the wiring and connections.


Each to their own, but one thing's for sure - it ain't going to fix itself.
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Old 1st November 2018, 08:14   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorchester2 View Post
Regarding the fuses, no useful lead of any failure: on my early model (1999), there's only one 5A fuse running all the exterior lights, the #40, as it appears on my British owner's handbook (impossible to find any in French unfortunately).

Fuse problem can easily be confusing because it appears that the pattern had been modified afterwards.
For example the diagram given by Haynes is different from mine, because it looks following the Longbridge modifications, as I can see in another January 2003 handbook I've got as well.

Actually two fuses feed LSM. Both 5 amps, #40 and #7. #40 is on ignition and #7 is on auxiliary position of the ignition switch.


But you also have Fuse Link #9 and Fuse Link #11, both of 50 amps feeding LSM as well. They are in engine compartment fuse box.

Last edited by Roverlike; 1st November 2018 at 08:18..
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Old 1st November 2018, 08:42   #15
Dorchester2
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Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Couldn't agree more, and if it was me, the next methodical step would be to whip the bumper off and check all the wiring and connections.
Each to their own, but one thing's for sure - it ain't going to fix itself.
However it happened in @vitesse case. Didn't you follow his link in a previous post, did you?
Never say never...

But let's be serious: it may be an electrical problem as you guess (some faulty connector or cut or bare wire you name it), but it may rather likely be an electronic fault coming from the light switch control unit.

First of all, when the problem occurred my car had been stand still during a few hours on a private parking. It had worked well the day before and in the very morning. So no move at all and no chance a wire may have moved since the late morning.

Secondly, it happened at once when I put the starter on. And it was very weird because after showing me the left bulb on the screen with its exclamation mark in the middle, immediately after the sketch of the car appeared with the whole bunch of every light with the message of a general lighting failure, which I cannot see in each icon of my 1999 owner's handbook p. 84-87. However the image was like the one at the head of page 84 which shows everything but doesn't appear as a single message by itself.

It's very odd and that's why it let me think of an electronic problem coming from the light switch control unit, at the left foot of the driver in our LHD cars.
I admit it may be a gamble but I've nothing to lose to follow the suggestion of @vitesse.

BTW our region is rather dry & my cars are always sheltered in dry garages and every spot you may look at in the engine bay or under the whole car looks as neat & tidy as possible without any particular washing, I try not to drive my 75 when the weather is too bad & rainy (the daily is my 25), so much that looking at a picture I'd taken a chap on another forum wrote - I quote -: "That looks very neat - thank you for the pictures.", another one: "It's saying something when the underside of a car looks this good! Better than the top of a lot of cars! " and a third one: "Exhaust looks good, underside is in excellent condition!".



Indeed I cannot exclude any lead, but the corrosion of a wire or a connector doesn't appear as the first port of call.



Mind you my intention isn't at all to be cocky & conceited, definitely not! But my aim is to put all the leads in the best possible order and to carry on.

I'll keep you posted if I'm able to find out that ghastly gremlin.
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Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto Connie born 1 July 1999, 24 kOhms resistor, 10 kOhms manual starter, full E85, modified airbox, full derestricted SS exhaust line, power & torque remap -> 202 bhp
  • This vehicle was the 7,517th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
  • This vehicle was the 1,190th 75 2.5 V6 Contemporary to be made out of 8,214
  • This vehicle was the 2,032nd 75 in Atlantic Blue Pearlescent (code: JEY) to be made out of 2,572 Atlantic Blue Pearlescent 75s
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Old 1st November 2018, 09:27   #16
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Originally Posted by Roverlike View Post
Actually two fuses feed LSM. Both 5 amps, #40 and #7. #40 is on ignition and #7 is on auxiliary position of the ignition switch.
But you also have Fuse Link #9 and Fuse Link #11, both of 50 amps feeding LSM as well. They are in engine compartment fuse box.
In my 1999 owner's handbook - I think I can trust it - the #7 is given as "immobilisation, cruise control".

Mind you @Roverlike I'd a kind of weird shortcut if pushing too long on the horn buttons and my fuse #28 (15A) perfectly matches the description of my 1999 manual that gives only "horn" & nothing else. On the contrary in Haynes manual & I bet Rave one, it shows a bunch of items such as "cruise control, steering wheel clock springs, horn, light switch control unit, clock & diagnostic connectors". That doesn't fit with my early model.

In the same way lots of noticeable differences with Haynes manual (that matches my 2003 manual on the contrary) in the engine fuse box: no 50A at all, only 10 fuses in the manual, from 10 to 30A.
Weird, isn't it?
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Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto Connie born 1 July 1999, 24 kOhms resistor, 10 kOhms manual starter, full E85, modified airbox, full derestricted SS exhaust line, power & torque remap -> 202 bhp
  • This vehicle was the 7,517th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
  • This vehicle was the 1,190th 75 2.5 V6 Contemporary to be made out of 8,214
  • This vehicle was the 2,032nd 75 in Atlantic Blue Pearlescent (code: JEY) to be made out of 2,572 Atlantic Blue Pearlescent 75s
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Old 1st November 2018, 09:39   #17
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As you wish.

Just note that I was not saying Fuse of 50 amps, but Fuse Links of 50 amps. These are not presented in the Owners handbook, but are present in the car.


Also note that handbook does not list all things that exist on one fuse circuit.


However, I just listed all fuses that exist in yoir 1999 R75 and provide power to LSM.
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Old 1st November 2018, 09:46   #18
Dorchester2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlike View Post
As you wish.
Just note that I was not saying Fuse of 50 amps, but Fuse Links of 50 amps. These are not presented in the Owners handbook, but are present in the car.
Also note that handbook does not list all things that exist on one fuse circuit.
However, I just listed all fuses that exist in your 1999 R75 and provide power to LSM.
Indeed I don't want to argue, just trying to know how to proceed and to see any light in that smoky problem.
As it's very easy to open the engine fusebox, I'll have a close look today, as well as trying to solve the problem beginning by the battery & light switch control unit deconnection / reconnection. Then if no joy I'll go to the next step: bumper off.

But @Roverlike where might you place your bet (without any guarantee of course!)?
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Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto Connie born 1 July 1999, 24 kOhms resistor, 10 kOhms manual starter, full E85, modified airbox, full derestricted SS exhaust line, power & torque remap -> 202 bhp
  • This vehicle was the 7,517th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
  • This vehicle was the 1,190th 75 2.5 V6 Contemporary to be made out of 8,214
  • This vehicle was the 2,032nd 75 in Atlantic Blue Pearlescent (code: JEY) to be made out of 2,572 Atlantic Blue Pearlescent 75s
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Old 1st November 2018, 11:41   #19
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I am betting on a fusebox.

That is the reason I told you fuse number 7 also powers LSM. Same fuse is used for Cruise Control, as you said, and Cruise Control buttons are the same which connects to your horn circuit.
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Old 1st November 2018, 12:27   #20
Mike Noc
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However it happened in @vitesse case. Didn't you follow his link in a previous post, did you?
Never say never...
I stand corrected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorchester2 View Post
But let's be serious: it may be an electrical problem as you guess (some faulty connector or cut or bare wire you name it), but it may rather likely be an electronic fault coming from the light switch control unit.

I'm not guessing, just want to check and rule out the obvious and known causes.

As you say it could well be something else. Good luck with sorting it.

Last time I had the front off was to sort a worn fan motor:

[IMG][/IMG]
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