1.8 K-Series Headgasket Choice - Advice Please.

[Sonic ZS]

After a few phone calls, I managed to get the genuine Payen gasket from a local motor factors called 'Alan Skuse'. I'm not too sure if that's much help though, as I see you're in Edinburgh, Sheraton !

The only reason I didn't go to Mat at DMGRS is that his website mentions that his are a clone of the Payen type. Advice has pointed me towards the genuine example being the best choice, and with the amount of work involved in changing it, I felt the additional cost of a genuine example was worthwhile. However, I've had excellent service from DMGRS in the past and can highly recommend them.

If you too decide to go down the genuine route, I'm sure you'll be able to find one locally, although might take a few phone calls to locate one !

[kaiser]

A couple of notes:
The importance of getting to the first 20 Newton meter torque is critical. That should be done in stages and correct sequence, as that is where the fire rings get compressed and the gasket settles.
I am all for inspecting and checking the bolts. However, to keep them in order does mot make any good sense to me. This advice stems back to the days where manufacturing tolerances varied, and things were often individually mated. So, by all means, keep the bolts in order, if you feel like it, but there is no advantage.
Pistons, bearings, lifters yes, bolts not necessary.

[Sonic ZS]

Picked up the new cambelt today, all fitted, tensioned, oil changed, etc. key turned and it started first time

Seems to run very nicely BUT, it still has the exact same overheating problem

It's not loosing any water and the oil doesn't have any mayo in it, but it seems to boil up once the complete cooling system (quite large on a TF, due to front rad & long, underfloor pipes) is all fully up to temperature.

Starting from cold, it eventually gets up to 105*, the front fan cuts in, temp drops back to 96*, fan switches off and all is well. But then it starts to heat up again, reaches 105* but this time when the fan cuts in, it stays on and makes no difference. In fact the engine temp will actually increase slightly to 106/107*C and the boiling starts ?

I have my suspicions as to what the problem might be, but based on the above, what does everyone think....??

Many thanks

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

Picked up the new cambelt today, all fitted, tensioned, oil changed, etc. key turned and it started first time

Seems to run very nicely BUT, it still has the exact same overheating problem

It's not loosing any water and the oil doesn't have any mayo in it, but it seems to boil up once the complete cooling system (quite large on a TF, due to front rad & long, underfloor pipes) is all fully up to temperature.

Starting from cold, it eventually gets up to 105*, the front fan cuts in, temp drops back to 96*, fan switches off and all is well. But then it starts to heat up again, reaches 105* but this time when the fan cuts in, it stays on and makes no difference. In fact the engine temp will actually increase slightly to 106/107*C and the boiling starts ?

I have my suspicions as to what the problem might be, but based on the above, what does everyone think....??

Many thanks

Just check the underfloor pipework is connected correctly

I've seen it in the past where the connections are mixed up, this results in overheating.

Brian

[Sonic ZS]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Just check the underfloor pipework is connected correctly

I've seen it in the past where the connections are mixed up, this results in overheating.

Brian

Thanks Brian....funny you should say that, because I've noticed the hot feed to the radiator runs down the N/S pipe under the passsnger, so it means it enters the rad at the bottom ?

I queried this with a friend as it didn't seem right (I always thought hot went in at the top, so it fell as it cooled), but looking at all the pipework in the engine bay, it doesn't look particularly twisted or stretched in any way. I also looked on the net and the only schematic I could find of the system showed hot on the N/S.

However, if someone has another TF they could check, I'd be very greatful

[Sonic ZS]

Just a quick update on this one, managed to get back on it today.

After much thought, the very gradual increase in temp started to point (in my mind) towards a flow problem with the radiator. I had previously run a hose pipe through it and it appeared ok, but I'll admit it's difficult to judge accurately.

So took it down to a specialist this morning who checked it and said it looked about 50% blocked. So an hour or two later I was equipped with a replacement, this time with a copper & brass core.

Refitted and although the situation has improved, it's still doing the same thing.

With this in mind, has anyone ever experienced a temp sensor that's giving incorrect readings to the ECU ? The fan seems to cut in quite late at 105*

Alternatively, do cheap water pumps have smaller impellers which reduce flow ?

It seems to cool slightly better when revved, and the level in the header drops, only to rise up again at idle, eventually boiling

[kaiser]

There are stories of MGF water pumps with loose impellers!
I bought an excellent book about MGF restorations, and he mentions a few cases. That would fit the bill.
A stuck stat would too.

Sure you don't have trapped air?

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

It seems to cool slightly better when revved, and the level in the header drops, only to rise up again at idle, eventually boiling

With a PRT fitted that would be the case as you rev the engine the spring in the PRT will compress and open it allowing coolant to flow, but of course if the wax part of the stat is not functioning properly then it could replicate exactly what you have experienced. only cooling when revving. Seen this to on my 1.8T with PRT.

We had all sorts of overheating/pushing fluid out of the systems on my sons 2004 1.6 TF. Attributed to the heater matrix and the restrictor was missing from the cooling system. Does your model have this fitted as I think some folks remove them in the hope that things will be improved, in fact the opposite is true. Located just at end of cylinder head just above gearbox left hand side looking forward. Be careful with the plastic t-piece it can be fragile if overheated or if someone else has been in there with heavy hands.

[kaiser]

The "ersatz" ring in the old stat's place makes no difference at all.

[DMGRS]

Thanks for the recommendation Sonic
Just to clarify, the reason we 'went our own way' with the Elastomer Head Gaskets were several poorly made BW750s that Payen and our supplier refused to help out with.
When they're properly made, they're a fantastic gasket - but I was left in the lurch with several like this:



A shame, as it's a very strong gasket.