Replacing In-tank Fuel Pump Rover 75 Tourer - Page 2

Mike Noc · 2nd July 2013, 07:45

Sounds like the same problem the twin pump ITP suffers from TC - commutator wear, although it could of course be the brushes.

Meltemipops any chance you could strip the old pump down when you get it out? Would be interesting to see what has worn.

Oliver Littleohns · 14th April 2016, 08:30

Thanks for the excellent instructions, I read and reread them several times and have succesfully fitted a new pump and it all works well

Best wishes

Olly

Rp61973 · 4th July 2017, 20:59

I claim to be the first late model cdti (single pump) to suffer tank pump failure.

Just my luck really!

🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽

Jules · 4th July 2017, 21:12

Lucky you !!!
What mileage ?

We have new genuine VDO PUMPS here

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=241363

Rp61973 · 5th July 2017, 01:32

Hi Jules, you sold me the new pump last week.

I am on 72K miles, but someone has been in the tank before me as the hatch has one of the four bolts missing and the lock ring is only hand tight.

Hopefully this weekend I will find some time to do the swap.

Paul

Jules · 5th July 2017, 07:42

Oops sorry Paul forgot to put the spare bolt in for you

It's nothing special though its an M6 thread 15mm long.

TeeCee · 8th July 2017, 13:55

Just done mine using a Jules pump and he came up with a stonking bit of advice on the fiddly job of splitting the pump housing, which I thought I'd share.

Find yourself a couple of small self-tapping screws. Use a big, flat-bladed screwdriver to lift the rim above a clip pair and a smaller one to "tweak" the clips up a bit then, keeping the rim held up to prevent the thing "resetting", wind a self-tapper at an angle into the gap below the clips. Repeat on second clip. The "tweak" on the third clip will then separate the unit, although an assistant is helpful for this one as, with the rim under tension from the first two sets, it's a bit of a swine to get to "go".

This technique makes that job a doddle. I know, I've just done it.

bl52krz · 11th July 2017, 21:43

Yes. I can vouch for the pumps from Jules. Fitted one of the VDO pumps from Jules and very quiet it is to.

Rp61973 · 8th August 2017, 21:47

A big thanks to Jules and his help and advice throughout the replacement stage. Someone had been at the tank pump before me; there was a replacement VDO unit in there which had the black earth wire cut back.

I extracted the old pump unit and tested it across a battery - dead as a dodo! It seemed that whoever had been in there had not fitted the scavenge pipe back in the nylon tray in the tank - it was floating around in the diesel. I suppose it is possible that the pump had been pulling in air as a result, which could have seen the pump running dry.

Pressing the scavenge pipe back into the tray was the most tricky part. Jules' tip was to insert the pipe upside down and then flip it over once in place. If you attempt to insert it the right way up, the tail section will foul on the nylon tray. The pump assembly went back reasonably easy.

After changing the under bonnet filter, all is running sweet. Next job is to change the PCV filter. The car has always had a sickly/burnt odour to the exhaust fumes, which I suspect could be down to this filter.

marinabrian · 8th August 2017, 22:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rp61973

A big thanks to Jules and his help and advice throughout the replacement stage. Someone had been at the tank pump before me; there was a replacement VDO unit in there which had the black earth wire cut back.

I extracted the old pump unit and tested it across a battery - dead as a dodo! It seemed that whoever had been in there had not fitted the scavenge pipe back in the nylon tray in the tank - it was floating around in the diesel. I suppose it is possible that the pump had been pulling in air as a result, which could have seen the pump running dry.

Pressing the scavenge pipe back into the tray was the most tricky part. Jules' tip was to insert the pipe upside down and then flip it over once in place. If you attempt to insert it the right way up, the tail section will foul on the nylon tray. The pump assembly went back reasonably easy.

After changing the under bonnet filter, all is running sweet. Next job is to change the PCV filter. The car has always had a sickly/burnt odour to the exhaust fumes, which I suspect could be down to this filter.

Your car will have had the original pump replaced with a secondhand one from a twin pump car in the past due to having been misdiagnosed as faulty probably due to water ingress into the ECM causing the fuel pump relay output to fail.

Not that I've seen this before

Brian

14th April 2016, 08:30	#12
Oliver Littleohns Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Newport Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Success Thanks for the excellent instructions, I read and reread them several times and have succesfully fitted a new pump and it all works well Best wishes Olly

4th July 2017, 20:59	#13
Rp61973 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Classic Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Galleywood Posts: 374 Thanks: 80 Thanked 67 Times in 45 Posts	I claim to be the first late model cdti (single pump) to suffer tank pump failure. Just my luck really! 🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽 __________________ 2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red

4th July 2017, 21:12	#14
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Lucky you !!! What mileage ? We have new genuine VDO PUMPS here http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=241363 __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

5th July 2017, 01:32	#15
Rp61973 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Classic Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Galleywood Posts: 374 Thanks: 80 Thanked 67 Times in 45 Posts	Hi Jules, you sold me the new pump last week. I am on 72K miles, but someone has been in the tank before me as the hatch has one of the four bolts missing and the lock ring is only hand tight. Hopefully this weekend I will find some time to do the swap. Paul __________________ 2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red

5th July 2017, 07:42	#16
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Oops sorry Paul forgot to put the spare bolt in for you It's nothing special though its an M6 thread 15mm long. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

2nd July 2013, 07:45	#11
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,548 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Sounds like the same problem the twin pump ITP suffers from TC - commutator wear, although it could of course be the brushes. Meltemipops any chance you could strip the old pump down when you get it out? Would be interesting to see what has worn.

8th July 2017, 13:55	#17
TeeCee Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Ruislip Posts: 107 Thanks: 2 Thanked 30 Times in 19 Posts	Splitting the pump housing. Just done mine using a Jules pump and he came up with a stonking bit of advice on the fiddly job of splitting the pump housing, which I thought I'd share. Find yourself a couple of small self-tapping screws. Use a big, flat-bladed screwdriver to lift the rim above a clip pair and a smaller one to "tweak" the clips up a bit then, keeping the rim held up to prevent the thing "resetting", wind a self-tapper at an angle into the gap below the clips. Repeat on second clip. The "tweak" on the third clip will then separate the unit, although an assistant is helpful for this one as, with the rim under tension from the first two sets, it's a bit of a swine to get to "go". This technique makes that job a doddle. I know, I've just done it. __________________ Objects in the rearview mirror may be enormous and a very long way away.

11th July 2017, 21:43	#18
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,393 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	Yes. I can vouch for the pumps from Jules. Fitted one of the VDO pumps from Jules and very quiet it is to. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

8th August 2017, 21:47	#19
Rp61973 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Classic Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Galleywood Posts: 374 Thanks: 80 Thanked 67 Times in 45 Posts	A big thanks to Jules and his help and advice throughout the replacement stage. Someone had been at the tank pump before me; there was a replacement VDO unit in there which had the black earth wire cut back. I extracted the old pump unit and tested it across a battery - dead as a dodo! It seemed that whoever had been in there had not fitted the scavenge pipe back in the nylon tray in the tank - it was floating around in the diesel. I suppose it is possible that the pump had been pulling in air as a result, which could have seen the pump running dry. Pressing the scavenge pipe back into the tray was the most tricky part. Jules' tip was to insert the pipe upside down and then flip it over once in place. If you attempt to insert it the right way up, the tail section will foul on the nylon tray. The pump assembly went back reasonably easy. After changing the under bonnet filter, all is running sweet. Next job is to change the PCV filter. The car has always had a sickly/burnt odour to the exhaust fumes, which I suspect could be down to this filter. __________________ 2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red