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Old 5th September 2012, 01:09   #1
pargyle
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Default Replacing In-tank Fuel Pump Rover 75 Tourer

Hi there, I’m a Newbie and this is my first post but I am very grateful to the forum as without it I would not have attempted changing the in-tank fuel pump on my Rover 75. There is an excellent How To post which shows the standard fuel pump being changed for a Peugeot pump and this was very useful, but there are a few things that are not specifically mentioned that left me scratching my head …. Indeed, even with the assistance of the How To it took me over 6 hours to fit a new pump – but now, knowing how it all comes apart and goes back together, I reckon I could more than cut that time in half. I probably spent more time scratching my head and re-looking at the various instructions I had available than I did actually doing the job ….

The quote from the local garage to do the job was £600 (not inc VAT) so I reckon I’ve saved well over £500 doing it myself; I’m only a competent DIY mechanic, not a professional, so if I can do it then virtually anyone with some car diy skills should be able to !

I bought the Mkon replacement pump which cost me just over £80 with postage. The instructions that come with this unit (and also available on his website) are also useful reading – but a little lacking in some respects … However, those instructions and the How to on this Forum along with the Haynes manual pointed me in the right direction most of the time. I had some concerns about how easy it would be to fit a replacement pump barrel/module to the existing cage and pondered (only for a couple of seconds) buying the complete tank unit – but at between £185 and £350 for the whole tank unit it was a no brainer and my fears about fitting it proved unfounded in any case.

I bought the tank seal from Rimmers (there are two different ones available – I bought the cheaper one and it’s fine) and I also bought a new locking ring from them … it’s only £1.50 for the metal locking ring and the combined postage with the seals and postage brought the total for these bits to £9.00. I bought a metre of 8mm (5/16”) fuel pipe, in a pack with 2 hoseclips, from Halfords for £4.49.

The pump from Mkon and the bits from Rimmers were ordered one day and arrived the next. I emailed both Mkon and Rimmers with queries and got immediate email responses from both of them.

Truly excellent service from both suppliers.

So … I thought I would share the benefit of just having successfully completed the job and discovered a few things which may be obvious to some people but which left me head scratching … perhaps I should have taken a few photos on my way through the day as well ~ but I’ve got a City in Guilds in hindsight and it’s too late now, as it’s all back together … sorry !

My car is a 53 CDT Tourer (actually we have two Rover 75 Tourers – my wife has a 54 CDT – it looks rather twee on the drive, one silver, one gold but we both love them !). The symptons on mine were classic in-tank fuel pump gone, the car wouldn’t start or run with less than ¼ tank of fuel.

For the benefit of those who might wonder if they have a broken in-tank fuel pump ~ when the car won’t start or run – if the tank is less than a quarter full, just put a couple of gallons of diesel into the tank, turn the ignition on, leave it on for about 20 seconds, repeat this a couple of times – if the car then starts and runs, the odds are it’s the in-tank fuel pump that’s gone. (Obviously, this only works for those cars that have the second fuel pump under the bonnet – IE: Prior to 04). You can run for a reasonable distance with the car just utilising the under bonnet pump by keeping the tank level above a quarter full… I did for four days until the replacement parts arrived …. But remember to run the fuel level down to less than half a tank before you start fitting the new pump ! I would stress that this is not a long term solution - you will just break the under bonnet pump if you do it too long.

So … the following is the records of my experience as I learned my way through fitting the new pump today – some of it will only make sense when you are actually doing the job and have the bits in your hand – if I’m teaching you to suck eggs then I apologise in advance, some things in the existing available information weren’t obvious to me so, hopefully, my experience will benefit someone else and perhaps give them the confidence to fit a new fuel pump to their vehicle.

1. You will find access easier for the job if you push the front seats as far forward as they will go and tilt them forward as well. I opened all the windows, as it was pretty warm today, whilst the battery was still connected. (Actually, I forgot and had to reconnect the battery !)

2. The first job was to remove the rear seat squab … sounds easy ? but what you need to do is pull firmly up under the front edge of the seat on both sides of the car – you might have to give it a couple of goes as mine didn’t free up the first time of asking. Once the front is released you can lift the seat squab a little – if you look under the squab you can see the rear attachment points – Now push the seeat belt buckles down through the holes in the squab. Push down on the rear of the seat squab and at the same time push the whole squab towards the rear of the vehicle – you will feel the seat squab release as you push it on each side. Once it’s free of the retaining catches you can lift it up fully. My car is a Tourer so I didn’t have to disconnect the centre seat belt – I just pushed the seat squab up the belt and into the rear load space. The seat belts are held in place with a big Torx bolt and I’d prefer not to undo them – even if you have a saloon you may be able to just push the seat squab up the back of the car and tie it in place without having to free the seat belt.

3. Once the seat squab is out of the way you will be able to see the two inspection hatches for the fuel tank – the one you want is the one on the RHS behind the driver’s seat. Before you start dismantling release the carpet from the door edge strips – careful, these strips slide by pushing them from the front of the car backwards, releasing them from the concealed retaining clips. I just pulled the carpet out and broke the retaining clips as a result ! I had some spare ones I had picked up on ebay so no matter but, if you don’t have spare clips, best not break the ones that are there….. Fold the carpet back and put a couple of bricks on it to hold it down. Peel the sound insulation back from the floor pan under the seat and find a way of stopping it from flopping back down (I had a couple of heavy iron weights I used). At this stage you need to cover everything in the vicinity of the inspection hatch and any adjacent carpet and upholstery with polythene. I used heavy duty garden sacks and gaffer tape – as the book says – a bit like the scene from Pulp Fiction ! Make sure you have plenty of absorbent rags to hand and put some in the drivers side rear footwell in readiness.

4. Undo the four 10mm set bolts holding the inspection cover in place and lift the cover back – there are some wires going through it with a rubber gaiter – just slide it back along the wire, no need to remove the gaiter. You will see the electrical connector for the fuel pump on the top of the pump housing – in order to remove it you need to slide the outer part of the connector towards the front of the vehicle in order to release the connector and this will allow you to pull the connector off the pins.

5. At this stage I pulled the electrical connector off the second fuel pump under the bonnet as well and turned the engine over on the starter for a few seconds to remove any pressure from the fuel line AND THEN I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY.

6. There are two fuel connections on the top of the pump housing which both need to be disconnected – sounds easy ! Took me an hour and a lot of patience !! The black rubber one is pretty easy – just release the hose clips and ease the end joining to the fuel line back with the blade of a screwdriver. There’s a brass spigot which goes into the black rubber tube. Once it's free tuck the end of the fuel line out of the way. The other (grey sheathed) fuel line is a bit more difficult as it is heat shrunk onto the pipe connector on the top of the pump housing and has one of those single use hose clips on it. You need to remove the hose clip – I carefully prised it apart with a small screwdriver – it took a bit of doing as you can’t lever against the plastic inlet pipe it joins onto. PATIENCE NEEDED NOT BRUTE FORCE.. Once the hose clip is off, with a sharp knife, carefully slit the grey outer sleeve lengthways for an inch or so and peel back the grey sleeve. Then carefully slit the inner black plastic fuel line in the same way – CAREFULLY – you really don’t want to break the inlet connector on the top of the pump housing – prise the fuel line off the connector and tuck it back out of the way. Later on you will cut the slit end off this pipe when you come to refit it, after the pump module has been replaced.

7. Make a mark on the top of the pump housing and a corresponding one on the surrounding metal so that you can relocate the pump housing in the correct place when you come to reinstall it. The locking ring now needs to be undone – I used a bit of wood and a hammer – it unscrews anticlockwise (conventionally) and this is achieved by putting the wood against one of the raised cut outs and whacking the wood with a hammer. It’s tight so don’t be too gentle - it takes a bit to get it moving but once it’s freed up you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Undo the locking ring fully and lift it off.

8. The pump housing is now free to lift out – sounds easy ! Gently lift the pump housing up – you will see some hoses and wires attached to it inside the fuel tank. If you haven’t got some rubber gloves on then now is a good time to pause, take the Vallium and put them on ! Lift the pump housing as far as you can without any force – reach into the tank and ease the hoses inside the tank out of the way to be able to lift the pump further. There’s a sender/float for the fuel gauge attached to the pump housing – you can probably only see a wire arm at this stage – lean the pump housing towards you and wiggle it gently, LOTS OF PATIENCE NEEDED, until you feel that it’s free and then lift the whole thing out of the tank and lay it on a piece of rag alongside the hole. The assembly is still going to be connected by a plastic pipe and two thin wires leading to a connector inside the tank (and probably under the surface of the diesel). The rubber tank seal will probably come away with the pump housing and can be pulled off the top of the pump housing. (The seal can be re-used if it is in good condition but for my money I would always put a new seal in place with a new pump).

9. Reach down into the tank and release the electrical connector (squeeze the raised bits on either side of the connector and pull it up – it will come free).

10. You should now be able to see the pump module (which you are going to replace) in the middle of the pump housing – it’s got two wires connected to the top of it and the end of the plastic hose going down into the fuel tank. You now need to disconnect this fuel hose – sounds easy ? This was really difficult. It’s heat shrunk onto the spigot on top of the pump module and you really don’t want to cut this pipe if you can help it – if you do then you will have to also remove the tank sender unit from inside the tank as you will have to replace the full length of this hose. I managed to get the hose off the spigot by warming it up with a hair dryer and easing it with a small screwdriver between the pipe and the spigot. It doesn’t matter if you damage the spigot as it’s on the pump module you are going to replace but try and keep the hose in a re-usable condition. Once you’ve got the pipe off the spigot there is nothing else attaching the pump and its housing to the tank and you can lift it away and take it to somewhere that you have a bench or table you can work on.

11. What you are going to do now is remove the pump module from the plastic pump housing in order to replace it with the new pump module – Sounds easy ? There are four stages to this part of the process:

a) Remove the black plastic and mesh filter at the bottom of the pump module.
b) Prise off and remove the black rubber ‘suspension’ units that hold the inner pump module in place.
c) Release the small lugs that hold the plastic sleeve retaining the pump module and lift out the pump module.
d) Remove the electrical connections from the top of the pump module.

The filter removal is fairly straightforward - with a small screwdriver gently lever it off the bottom of the pump and pump module – there are some plastic lugs holding it in place and the odds are that one or more of these will break – it’s not the end of the world as it’s a tight fit on the end of the pump module and it will go back alright on the bottom of the new pump.

The black rubber ‘suspenders’ can be carefully prised our of the slots on the (outer) pump housing and (inner) pump module – there are three of them – make a note of which way up they go – there’s a triangular bit that (on mine) points upwards to the top of the pump housing. Once these are removed you can wiggle the inner pump module out of the outer pump housing.

For the next stage you need to make some special tools – ignore the instructions that talk about three hands, small screwdrivers or blunt rounded table knives – if you want to damage yourself or break the inner pump module (and then you are up the creek) then those methods will do the job !

I bought six cheap electrical screwdrivers – the cheaper the better as you want them to bend and you are going to ruin them for anything else ! Mine were six for £1 in the local pound shop ! Put one of the screwdrivers in a vice and bend the last inch or so over at right angles – you might need to hammer it a bit. It doesn’t matter if the plastic handle breaks up – it’s the other end you need to use. Make five more like the first one …

Now, going back to the inner pump module on the bench – it’s still going to be attached to the outer pump housing by the wiring and another piece of hose clipped to it, but it can stay like that for the time being.

Look for the three sets of lugs halfway down the inner pump module that retain the top half of the inner pump module and thus hold the actual pump module in place. You need to release these lugs and this is where your special tools come into use – push the blade of one of the six bent screwdrivers down the side of one set of lugs – put another one down the other side of the lugs. Do the same for each of the other two sets of lugs. What you are doing is easing the pump retaining sleeve away from the lugs so that it can be slid out – LOTS OF PATIENCE NOW – you may need to use another small screwdriver in the gap underneath the lugs to pry the retaining sleeve up. You don’t want to break any of the plastic sleeve so be careful. Once the sleeve has been released the old pump module can be released. Easy !

Get the new pump module ready – remove the two plastic covers from the inlet and outlet on the new pump, Make a note of which wire goes where on the old pump module, pull the spade connectors off the terminals and transfer them to the new pump. Discard the old pump and replace the new pump in the inner pump housing. The new pump and the retaining sleeve simply slide back into place on the lugs – you won’t need to use your special tools for this – it just slides down and with a bit of hand pressure just clicks onto the lugs.

Push the black filter back onto the bottom of the new pump – you will note that there’s a slot in the filter and a corresponding raised section to locate the filter in the correct position. Push it onto the bottom of the new pump as far as it will go and it will locate on the retaining lugs (if there are any left after you prised the filter off earlier !). It’s a pretty tight fit on the bottom of the pump so its not going to come off anyway …

Wiggle the inner pump housing containing the new pump and filter back into the outer pump housing and replace the three black rubber ‘suspenders’.

You now have the pump module re-assembled with the new pump in place and you can start refitting it in the fuel tank.

12.Reinstallation – if you’ve got this far without breaking anything then you probably deserve a break and a cup of tea ! Nearly all the difficult bits are done and you are well on your way to completion. Take the pump housing back to the vehicle and place it alongside the hole it came out of.

You now need to reconnect the fuel line from inside the tank to the spigot on the top of the new pump. Sounds easy ? You may need to use the hairdryer again to make the hose a little more flexible. A pair of pliers and gentle force will probably assist but, again, LOTS OF PATIENCE is essential - you really don't want to break the spigot. Once the hose is back on the spigot I secured it in place with a couple of small cable ties around the hose to make certain it stays in place.

13. Reconnect the electrical connections inside the fuel tank. They can only be inserted with the connector the right way round – if they don’t slot in easily you’ve probably got the connector the wrong way round !

14. Place the new seal in place around the rim of the hole in the tank and make sure it is seated properly all the way round, easing it into place so that the rim of the hole sits in the groove around the outside of the seal.

15. Replace the pump housing in the top of the tank. Sounds easy ? You will need to wiggle it about a bit to get it back in the right place without bending the fuel gauge sender float. There is only one way the pump can fit, so line up the marks you made at 7. above and you will know it’s in the right position. Don't force it - if you have to force it in, stop and wiggle it some more till it frees up.

16. Replace the locking ring on the top of the housing – screw it in by hand and then hammer it round in the opposite direction to when you removed it – keep going until there is no appreciable movement as a result of reasonable force. I replaced the locking ring with a new one but it is feasible to use the original if it is still in good condition.

17. You now need to reconnect the two hoses on the top of the pump housing – the black rubber one is pretty easy – you should be able to slide it back onto the brass spigot and reinstate the two original hose clips. The grey sheathed one is a bit more awkard. After cutting off the part of the hose that had been slit with a sharp knife I couldn’t get it back onto the plastic spigot on the top of the pump housing. It was just too tight a fit. My remedy was to use a short length of the new 8mm fuel hose (about 2”) I bought from Halfords and a short piece of 8mm copper pipe (again about 2”). The copper pipe pushed into the end of the cut hose quite easily and also into the end of the ‘Halfords’ 8mm hose. The ‘Halfords’ 8mm hose then pushed onto the spigot on the top of the pump housing. Secure all the connections with either cable ties or small jubilee/cable clips.

18.Nearly there now … replace the electrical connector on the top of the pump housing remembering to slide the sides of the connector back before pushing it down on to the pins, reconnect the under bonnet fuel pump electrical connection and reconnect the car battery. All just reverse procedures of the dismantling process.

19. Before you put the inspection cover back in place and reinstate the seat, switch on the ignition and listen for the pump in the fuel tank gurgling. Leave the ignition on for about 20 seconds then switch it off and switch it on again, do this three of four times to prime the fuel line. Try and start the car – it might take a second or two to catch if there’s any air left in the fuel line and splutter for a few seconds but then it should be OK.

20. As long as the car is running alright and you don’t have any disasters or leaks – screw the inspection cover back down, replace the seat squab and clear up …. Job's done … Good luck with your pump replacement.

Philip

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of these How-To's can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following these How-To's.
Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.

Last edited by pargyle; 5th September 2012 at 02:17.. Reason: Modified text
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Old 5th September 2012, 08:07   #2
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Thanks for sharing your experience.

Not something i'm wishing to do for a while though.
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Old 6th November 2012, 02:31   #3
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And gratefully copied to the How to Forum
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Old 7th November 2012, 02:11   #4
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Excellent write up but i took mine out different no cutting of pipes etc petrol pump though i presume they are the same as in the connections anyway. Quick glimpse before i have time to do a write up with pics Arctic.

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Old 7th November 2012, 15:53   #5
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Also available are my Genuine intank pumps (half assembly)
£95 +£4.95 PP

It is the pump itself plus the inner housing which simply clips into the 3 rubber suspended mounts of the outer housing.

So no fiddling about with brittle plastics clips which can break off when fitting the MKON insert for example!

It is an intricate task but if fitted correctly & carefully it is very rewarding and will have been done at a 1/3 of the cost!

No need to mess with additional piping.
The original is fairly easily removed and transferred onto new pump with a little heat.
(new clip supplied)

Our price is £95 + £4.95 UK delivery .

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Old 1st July 2013, 14:49   #6
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Default Non Starter, Fuel starvation diesel

I was unable to start my Rover 75 cdti tourer. I was almost convinced that it may be that the in-tank fuel pump was faulty & I was about to order a new one. I received some further advice to disconnect the fuel delivery pipe at the fuel filter & check if fuel was pumping through when the ignition was turned to position 2. There was no fuel being delivered. I was then advised to blow through the fuel pipe back to the tank to see if the fuel pipe was blocked or if the impeller may be obstructed. I blew as hard as I could a few times but was unsure if air was being passed back to the tank.

I then left the fuel pipe disconnected from the filter and turned the ignition key to position 2 and a jet of fuel poured out of the pipe. After reconnecting and cleaning up the spilled fuel I tried the ignition and then started the engine successfully.

Problem recurred and will now replace pump.

Last edited by meltemipops; 1st July 2013 at 17:00..
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Old 1st July 2013, 18:18   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meltemipops View Post
I was unable to start my Rover 75 cdti tourer. I was almost convinced that it may be that the in-tank fuel pump was faulty & I was about to order a new one. I received some further advice to disconnect the fuel delivery pipe at the fuel filter & check if fuel was pumping through when the ignition was turned to position 2. There was no fuel being delivered. I was then advised to blow through the fuel pipe back to the tank to see if the fuel pipe was blocked or if the impeller may be obstructed. I blew as hard as I could a few times but was unsure if air was being passed back to the tank.

I then left the fuel pipe disconnected from the filter and turned the ignition key to position 2 and a jet of fuel poured out of the pipe. After reconnecting and cleaning up the spilled fuel I tried the ignition and then started the engine successfully.

Problem recurred and will now replace pump.
your car just have one pump?
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Old 1st July 2013, 19:05   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dotsie View Post
your car just have one pump?
Later diesels only have the one pump. Having said that, the later pumps are reckoned to be pretty robust. Not yet read of a single pump model needing the unit replaced.

TC
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Old 1st July 2013, 21:51   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
Later diesels only have the one pump. Having said that, the later pumps are reckoned to be pretty robust. Not yet read of a single pump model needing the unit replaced.

TC
Hi TC
I will have to differ from this as my 2004 Tourer as the two pumps and i have seen some late 2003 -04 and even 05 diesels with the two pumps so I wonder if anyone else might have seen this and know why Arctic
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Old 1st July 2013, 21:59   #10
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Yes, I should have said 'some ' later diesels have only one pump. I think this applies to meltemipops' car. I'm unclear why he's decided to replace it.

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