Replacing In-tank Fuel Pump Rover 75 Tourer - Page 3

Rp61973 · 8th August 2017, 23:50

Thanks Brian, that could be an explanation. What is odd is that the old pump that died was a German VDO unit and not some cheap Chinese jobby off Fleabay.

Hopefully with the scavenge pipe now firmly fixed in place, a new pump and fuel filter, all will be ok, fingers crossed.

Jules · 8th August 2017, 23:53

Talking of ECU's
Think I have a pile of coming up to you Bri 😃🖒

marinabrian · 9th August 2017, 06:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jules

Talking of ECU's
Think I have a pile of coming up to you Bri 😃🖒

Hmm, Chris is talking about a holiday cottage in North Wales very soon, any recommendations for a dog friendly one that sleeps four?

Brian

BJBaillie · 29th January 2018, 01:53

This is my first comment on a post, so if i screw up, do excuse me.

Having read this, it's a little beyond me and the next to no tools i have.

How much, does everyone think is reasonable to be giving a garage to sort this out?

I've just got my First 75 and it wouldn't start below an 1/8th of a tank.

is it possible it's just the fuel gauge playing up or is it probably the pump?

Thank you all,

PS - You have a wonderful, well indexed forum that has helped me have countless easy little fixes for my car. Bravo all!

Jules · 29th January 2018, 08:19

We charge 169 per pump inc fitting.

That's for genuine VDO/SIEMENS pumps.

Don't be tempted to fit aftermarket or cheapo unbranded stuff.
They are noisy and don't last.

YHT · 21st December 2019, 10:21

Just fitted one of these/those; the discharge stub was not aligned the same as the original. I aligned the discharge stub pipe but when you look at the underside the moulded plastic strap obscured the filter being fitted back on. Took it apart again (with an electric heatr on it to get the plastic pliable and re-aligned. Works OK.
Lifting the seat squab there was lots of rust on the rear catches; I suppose someone had been wading through deep water and the access hatch seal isnt as good as it might be; not flood proof any was. In these days of flooded roads it may be the cause of a wet foot well in the back and not blocked sun roof drains???

captaincol · 6th July 2020, 12:43

Hi,
Just finished replacing the fuel pump that resides in the diesel fuel tank. In the end it was fairly easy after reading various helpful threads on here.

However I have found the most useful Toni's a heat gun! Make sure you have one of these before starting. A hair dryer might work but will probably not be hot enough or take a lot longer.

I am not going to go through the whole process as this is covered in various posts. However the following will save you loads of time and help to minimise breaking anything thing.

1) There are two fuel lines to the too of the tank sender unit. One is the clip on type and simple as just press and pull. The other is the one which gives people grief. There is a short peice (6 cm ish) of green (probably covered in dirt) tubing which comes from top of pump and then joins another rubber pipe. There is a metal spigot which goes into the small green tube and this is what you need to remove. Use a pair of pliers and move the spring click down the pipe. Then just heat up the end of this green tube with a heat gun on LOW setting . Get it nice and hot but don't melt it! The spigot can then easily be pulled out 😊. When you get to putting this back on at the end of the job you can just heat the tube up again and the spigot pushes in easily!

2) Once you have initially removed the sender unit from the tank.There clear flexible ridged tubing from inside the tank which connects to the top of the fuel pump in the sender unit. Remove the metal tube clip with screw driver/pliers. Then use the heat gun on low to heat up where the tube slots onto the pump. Once hot you can the pull it off with a twisting motion.

Alternatively you can just crush and break the plastic part which the tube slots over on the old fuel pump as you are going to relplace it anyway as per existing post. To be honest I would.just heat it nicely but don't melt it! When you have to reconnect this tube to the new pump you can heat the tube and it will easily push onto the new pump.

3) This is the real Bonus of the heat gun. You need to undo the 6 lugs that hold the the two parts of the pump housing in place. This is normally a nightmare as you need to makesure you prise them all in unison and with out breaking the old plastic! If you do you will be totally stuffed! I treid various message methods but was worried about the plastic.

In the end it was so easy. Use the heat gun to heat the plastic up around all the lugs until quite hot...dont melt it. You can the easily bend/prise the plastic with just 3 screw drivers and it popped apart easily 😊

4) When I had clipped fitted the new pump and clipped the two parts back together again I needed to turn the pump very slightly to be able to.preaa on the filter overs the plastic clips correctly. The pump would not budge when tried to rotate it a few degrees and didn't want to break it.

So just heated of the plastic of the two halves of the cradle holding the new pump and then it was.dead easily to rotate the new pump as required.

5) There are 3 rubber clamp things which hold the pump cradle in place and I just heated these slightly before refiiting and so.easy to manipulate in place then.

So that's it ...Get a heat gun before you start! BUT be careful not to.over heat anything and remove diesel residue as best you can before heating parts. Basically be careful and use common sense.

Hope the above helps.

Jules · 12th April 2022, 20:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dim

Very thorough and helpful. Thank you. I managed to mobilise my R75. It was impossible to find the specific version of the complete plastic fuel pump assembly. The shop refused to undertake the replacement of the pump itself within the assembly. Without your instructions it would be impossible.

We have genuine VDO assemblies in stock
£299

Dim · 12th April 2022, 20:14

Excellent instructions. Thorough and very detailed. I managed to mobilise my R75. It was impossible to find the specific version of the complete plastic fuel pump assembly. It is the rarest of many R75 assembly types. Without your instructions it would be impossible to replace the pump itself. The shop refused to undertake the replacement of the pump within the assembly.

A photo from the successful effort:
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...5d9ce06aae.jpg

TimE · 19th November 2022, 14:13

I'd like to add my experience after following pargyle's guidance.

When it comes to step 6, according to my garage, it is possible to detach the second fuel line (the one with the heat shrunk pipe) without having to remove it from the spigot. I followed pargyle's step (thank you) and slit the pipe but I coudn't reassemble it without fuel seeping from it hence I had to take it to the garage after changing the pumps.

This is the second 75 where I've changed the pumps and I must admit that I couldn't recall having to slit the fuel pipe when I did so first time around. Unfortunatey, I also couldn't remember how I'd detached the pipe from the top of the housing. If anyone can explain how this is done I'm sure it will help others and even me if I need to do it again whether on my present 75 or another.

Going back a step, on trying to drop the pump unit back in to the tank, I found what I can only describe as a crate-like plastic 'thing' in the way. Possibly I dislodged it when I withdrew the pump unit from the tank. Eventually, I found a useful Youtube video explaining that this is the venturi syphon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMIasHR5RLA&t=171s

Hopefully I re-fitted it adequately (time will tell...) but I don't know what I'd have done without the video.

Another tip when it comes to separating the white plastic parts of the pump module (I didn't have six mini flat-head screwdrivers) is to start with the two sets of clips nearest the 'open' ends. I used mini flat-head screwdrivers (I had two courtesy of Christmas crackers) to prise the clips away but then a larger flat-head screwdriver between the two white plastic clip-together sections. I actually found the white plastic pump housing sections to be quite resilient.

I bought replacement pumps from DMGRS - the in tank pump was a Magnetti Marelli unit Ref: MAM00081 (you won't need the filter it's supplied with) whilst the under-bonnet pump was a Hella 8TF 358.146-181. Both were made in China. You can buy these on eBay more cheaply than the DMGRS prices.

Well, I hope the above may be useful in augmenting the original poster's guide and good luck to anyone who attempts it - the skills required are somewhere between a mechanic and a gynaecologist.

8th August 2017, 23:50	#21
Rp61973 Loves to post Rover 75 CDTI Classic Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Galleywood Posts: 374 Thanks: 80 Thanked 67 Times in 45 Posts	Thanks Brian, that could be an explanation. What is odd is that the old pump that died was a German VDO unit and not some cheap Chinese jobby off Fleabay. Hopefully with the scavenge pipe now firmly fixed in place, a new pump and fuel filter, all will be ok, fingers crossed. __________________ 2006 Rover 75 CDTI in Starlight Silver 1973 Rover P6 3500 in Monza Red

8th August 2017, 23:53	#22
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Talking of ECU's Think I have a pile of coming up to you Bri 😃🖒 __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

29th January 2018, 01:53	#24
BJBaillie Newbie Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 22 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	This is my first comment on a post, so if i screw up, do excuse me. Having read this, it's a little beyond me and the next to no tools i have. How much, does everyone think is reasonable to be giving a garage to sort this out? I've just got my First 75 and it wouldn't start below an 1/8th of a tank. is it possible it's just the fuel gauge playing up or is it probably the pump? Thank you all, PS - You have a wonderful, well indexed forum that has helped me have countless easy little fixes for my car. Bravo all! __________________ Trying to run a Champagne car on Corporation pop money.

29th January 2018, 08:19	#25
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	We charge 169 per pump inc fitting. That's for genuine VDO/SIEMENS pumps. Don't be tempted to fit aftermarket or cheapo unbranded stuff. They are noisy and don't last. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

21st December 2019, 10:21	#26
YHT Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: suffolk Posts: 264 Thanks: 46 Thanked 25 Times in 23 Posts	fleaby in tank pump Just fitted one of these/those; the discharge stub was not aligned the same as the original. I aligned the discharge stub pipe but when you look at the underside the moulded plastic strap obscured the filter being fitted back on. Took it apart again (with an electric heatr on it to get the plastic pliable and re-aligned. Works OK. Lifting the seat squab there was lots of rust on the rear catches; I suppose someone had been wading through deep water and the access hatch seal isnt as good as it might be; not flood proof any was. In these days of flooded roads it may be the cause of a wet foot well in the back and not blocked sun roof drains???

6th July 2020, 12:43	#27
captaincol Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Weston-super-Mare Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Helpful Hint to help with changing in tank fuel pump Hi, Just finished replacing the fuel pump that resides in the diesel fuel tank. In the end it was fairly easy after reading various helpful threads on here. However I have found the most useful Toni's a heat gun! Make sure you have one of these before starting. A hair dryer might work but will probably not be hot enough or take a lot longer. I am not going to go through the whole process as this is covered in various posts. However the following will save you loads of time and help to minimise breaking anything thing. 1) There are two fuel lines to the too of the tank sender unit. One is the clip on type and simple as just press and pull. The other is the one which gives people grief. There is a short peice (6 cm ish) of green (probably covered in dirt) tubing which comes from top of pump and then joins another rubber pipe. There is a metal spigot which goes into the small green tube and this is what you need to remove. Use a pair of pliers and move the spring click down the pipe. Then just heat up the end of this green tube with a heat gun on LOW setting . Get it nice and hot but don't melt it! The spigot can then easily be pulled out 😊. When you get to putting this back on at the end of the job you can just heat the tube up again and the spigot pushes in easily! 2) Once you have initially removed the sender unit from the tank.There clear flexible ridged tubing from inside the tank which connects to the top of the fuel pump in the sender unit. Remove the metal tube clip with screw driver/pliers. Then use the heat gun on low to heat up where the tube slots onto the pump. Once hot you can the pull it off with a twisting motion. Alternatively you can just crush and break the plastic part which the tube slots over on the old fuel pump as you are going to relplace it anyway as per existing post. To be honest I would.just heat it nicely but don't melt it! When you have to reconnect this tube to the new pump you can heat the tube and it will easily push onto the new pump. 3) This is the real Bonus of the heat gun. You need to undo the 6 lugs that hold the the two parts of the pump housing in place. This is normally a nightmare as you need to makesure you prise them all in unison and with out breaking the old plastic! If you do you will be totally stuffed! I treid various message methods but was worried about the plastic. In the end it was so easy. Use the heat gun to heat the plastic up around all the lugs until quite hot...dont melt it. You can the easily bend/prise the plastic with just 3 screw drivers and it popped apart easily 😊 4) When I had clipped fitted the new pump and clipped the two parts back together again I needed to turn the pump very slightly to be able to.preaa on the filter overs the plastic clips correctly. The pump would not budge when tried to rotate it a few degrees and didn't want to break it. So just heated of the plastic of the two halves of the cradle holding the new pump and then it was.dead easily to rotate the new pump as required. 5) There are 3 rubber clamp things which hold the pump cradle in place and I just heated these slightly before refiiting and so.easy to manipulate in place then. So that's it ...Get a heat gun before you start! BUT be careful not to.over heat anything and remove diesel residue as best you can before heating parts. Basically be careful and use common sense. Hope the above helps.

12th April 2022, 20:14	#29
Dim Newbie Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Apr 2022 Location: Bristol Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Pargyle, Grateful, R75 saved! Excellent instructions. Thorough and very detailed. I managed to mobilise my R75. It was impossible to find the specific version of the complete plastic fuel pump assembly. It is the rarest of many R75 assembly types. Without your instructions it would be impossible to replace the pump itself. The shop refused to undertake the replacement of the pump within the assembly. A photo from the successful effort: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...5d9ce06aae.jpg Last edited by Dim; 12th April 2022 at 20:17..

19th November 2022, 14:13	#30
TimE Newbie 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Smarden Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I'd like to add my experience after following pargyle's guidance. When it comes to step 6, according to my garage, it is possible to detach the second fuel line (the one with the heat shrunk pipe) without having to remove it from the spigot. I followed pargyle's step (thank you) and slit the pipe but I coudn't reassemble it without fuel seeping from it hence I had to take it to the garage after changing the pumps. This is the second 75 where I've changed the pumps and I must admit that I couldn't recall having to slit the fuel pipe when I did so first time around. Unfortunatey, I also couldn't remember how I'd detached the pipe from the top of the housing. If anyone can explain how this is done I'm sure it will help others and even me if I need to do it again whether on my present 75 or another. Going back a step, on trying to drop the pump unit back in to the tank, I found what I can only describe as a crate-like plastic 'thing' in the way. Possibly I dislodged it when I withdrew the pump unit from the tank. Eventually, I found a useful Youtube video explaining that this is the venturi syphon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMIasHR5RLA&t=171s Hopefully I re-fitted it adequately (time will tell...) but I don't know what I'd have done without the video. Another tip when it comes to separating the white plastic parts of the pump module (I didn't have six mini flat-head screwdrivers) is to start with the two sets of clips nearest the 'open' ends. I used mini flat-head screwdrivers (I had two courtesy of Christmas crackers) to prise the clips away but then a larger flat-head screwdriver between the two white plastic clip-together sections. I actually found the white plastic pump housing sections to be quite resilient. I bought replacement pumps from DMGRS - the in tank pump was a Magnetti Marelli unit Ref: MAM00081 (you won't need the filter it's supplied with) whilst the under-bonnet pump was a Hella 8TF 358.146-181. Both were made in China. You can buy these on eBay more cheaply than the DMGRS prices. Well, I hope the above may be useful in augmenting the original poster's guide and good luck to anyone who attempts it - the skills required are somewhere between a mechanic and a gynaecologist.