Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club General Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 21st June 2016, 15:27   #11
Greeners
Moderator
 
Greeners's Avatar
 
MG-ZTT

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 19,798
Thanks: 161
Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts
Default

I would start with the water issues first....

Make sure the plenum is clear and that it hasn't filled up and drowned the BCU which lives passenger side above the glove box V6 ECU's are well sealed so don't suffer in the same way diesels do.
Greeners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 15:38   #12
Rick-sta
This is my second home
 
Rick-sta's Avatar
 
MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 7,534
Thanks: 2,718
Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeners View Post
I would start with the water issues first....

Make sure the plenum is clear and that it hasn't filled up and drowned the BCU which lives passenger side above the glove box V6 ECU's are well sealed so don't suffer in the same way diesels do.
The plenum is completely bone dry surprisingly, I was expecting it to be full of water, so the ECU is dry. I need to check all the fuses yet though, wondering if all the water could have caused fuses to blow.
__________________
How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link
How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link
Rick-sta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 15:40   #13
Greeners
Moderator
 
Greeners's Avatar
 
MG-ZTT

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 19,798
Thanks: 161
Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts
Default

As its got a sunroof check for wet carpets, and the earth studs at the bottom of both A pillars behind the kick panels
Greeners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 15:50   #14
Rick-sta
This is my second home
 
Rick-sta's Avatar
 
MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black

Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 7,534
Thanks: 2,718
Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeners View Post
As its got a sunroof check for wet carpets, and the earth studs at the bottom of both A pillars behind the kick panels
Thanks David I'll check the earths when I pull the carpet out, the interior is flooded as the sunroof drains have come off. The boot and interior floor on the passenger side was completely flooded.
__________________
How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link
How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link
How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link
Rick-sta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 15:53   #15
Greeners
Moderator
 
Greeners's Avatar
 
MG-ZTT

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 19,798
Thanks: 161
Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts
Default

Get it dried out first before you start looking for faults
Greeners is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 17:20   #16
mbonwick
Gets stuck in
 
Connoisseur SE 1.8 Auto Saloon

Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Kendal
Posts: 633
Thanks: 129
Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
Issue with the brakes - the brakes don't work at all due to being sat for 5 years, really have to stamp hard on the brakes and the pedal goes very low down. When the scrappy went to collect the car they said one rear calliper had seized. Would new brake disks and pads all round fix this or would callipers and other bits need replacing?
New discs and pads all round, plus a complete fluid change is probably a decent place to start. Relatively cheap and straightforward job that will need doing regardless. If it fixes it - great. If not then at least you've ruled it out (and one thing less to replace!)
mbonwick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 17:50   #17
Ian G
This is my second home
 
Small

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Land of the Eel
Posts: 6,315
Thanks: 2,328
Thanked 2,991 Times in 1,431 Posts
Default

Hi Rick
Looks OK.. Reminds when I bought a Peugeot 405 STi in very similar circumstances a few years ago although i do think the 405 had a bit more foliage growing on it, that car turned out to be one of the best I've ever owned
I kept it for 5 years spent very little on it and actualy sold it at a profit..
I think Tom H has a full set of calipers for sale which would be a good starting point for the brakes..
Cheers Ian
__________________
The man behind redfive
Ian G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 20:55   #18
Tourist
Loves to post
 
2004 Rover 75 Tourer CDTi

Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fulbourn, Cambridge
Posts: 455
Thanks: 105
Thanked 123 Times in 101 Posts
Default

Hi Rick,

Looks like an interesting prospect and a nice little project.

I've done similar work recommissioning Maestros (of all things!) that have been laid-up for a number of years. This was also usually due to elderly owners stopping driving for whatever reason.

My advice would be to assess the car thoroughly before you spend a penny on it. No point in fixing something that you're going to end up breaking for parts. Electrical gremlins aside, this means getting it up on a ramp and checking the underside for condition and also in this car's case taking all the carpets out and checking the floorpan for corrosion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
If anyone has any suggestion or advice..

- Issue with the brakes..
You're going to have to give the car a complete brake service. You don't necessarily need new discs if the ones on it now aren't warped / corroded but new pads are probably a good idea due to age and it having stood.

Replace the fluid and check the master cylinder for leaks, then what I used to do is remove one caliper at a time and get an assistant to pump the pedal gently while I assess the movement of the piston(s). Often with the Maestros pumping the piston out and then forcing it back in with a G-Cramp (or you can use a proper calliper winder tool!) a few times got it working OK again.

If in doubt rebuild or complete replacement is your only option. You can't afford to take chances there but an MoT test will check brake balance.

Also check the flexi-pipes for condition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
- The aircon doesn't work and shows up "err" on the display. Where should I start with this? Never had this issue before myself.
Worry about that later on. Or if it's bothering you, have to done the Aircon Diagnostic procedure as per another thread on this forum?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
- I've dried the boot out but the wipers still like to turn on by themselves now and again, although it's doing it a lot less now that the boot is dry. Would disconnecting the satnav drives solve this issue?
If they're water-damaged, I would try disconnecting them. Who knows what problems they may be causing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
- For those who have had their satnav drives swimming in water, are they done for once they've been wet or can they be dried out and working again? I'm pretty sure mine are going to be absolutely shot but just wondering what to do?
If they've been turned on while sopping wet then in line with almost every electronic item I would suggest they're toast even if they weren't beforehand!

Finally, the advice from others to get the car completely dried out before worrying about the electrical faults is bang on the money. Dry it out and then check any earth points that may have been swimming in water!

Keep us posted with your progress :-)

Last edited by Tourist; 21st June 2016 at 21:13..
Tourist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 21:05   #19
mininuts
This is my second home
 
Cooper S 210

Join Date: May 2012
Location: Port William
Posts: 5,309
Thanks: 5,098
Thanked 2,406 Times in 1,631 Posts
Default

Looks like a car with a lot of potential, Rick.
I suppose you just have to be methodical and go through it bit by bit. It'd be a shame to break it but, if it's not economical to repair then, what else can you do?
I shall watch with interest on what you decide

I know where there's a diesel 99/00 W reg 75 Club in Steel Blue that I can have for £150. Thing is, it needs new clutch/slave apparently The owner likes to tinker and has half removed gearbox but, got fed up with it and now wants it out of his way. I'm half tempted to buy it but, I really don't need another project but, I don't want to see it get scrapped
The car is in very good condition overall and the colour is lovely.
__________________
Paul

2016 MINI Cooper S 210 : 2000 Rover 75 CDT Classic SE : 2009 Freelander 2 GS : 2000 Mini Cooper Sport : 1986 Mini Mayfair : 1980 Mini Pickup : 1971 Mini Cooper S
mininuts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2016, 21:32   #20
bl52krz
This is my second home
 
bl52krz's Avatar
 
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE

Join Date: May 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 11,394
Thanks: 6,587
Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts
Default

You can refurbish the the brakes quite easily. It would be the rest that would worry me. And the bodywork looks in relatively good condition considering.
__________________
Great Barr, Birmingham.
bl52krz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:46.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd