Help: driver's window switch pack stopped working!

Rob Bell · 5th January 2009, 15:28

Title says it all really!

Our ZTT's battery recently went flat on us (the factory original, now over 5 years old, so not bad!). Attempted to jump start to get over to Halfords but no joy, but eventually a new battery was fitted, and Bob's your uncle, the ZT fired up first time.

Not sure whether the failure of the switch pack has anything to do with the above, but we only noticed the problem since we replaced the battery.

The windows work from the remaining switches, but the driver's panel is dead. Not even the electric mirrors function any more. No illumination - unless the headlamps are on, in which case the back lighting come on.

Any suggestions folks?

Happy New year to one and all

James.uk · 5th January 2009, 15:35

I seriously doubt that all 9 switches can fail at the same time, so I think the prob lies with main feed to that cluster. Fuse gone maybe?
.

Rob Bell · 5th January 2009, 15:44

My thought too - but don't understand why all the other windows work fine? Anyone got a wiring diagram and can tell me whether the switch pack has its own fused power supply?

afcbadam · 5th January 2009, 22:59

there is a how to on these. may want to follow that as it has sorted alot of these out for people

Moonstone · 5th January 2009, 23:25

In Haynes, the passenger door switches just connects earth to the BCU - there's no power except for the illumination.

Fuse 4 feeds the driver's panel, as does fuse 11, though this is also listed for ATC and audio. Check your own handbook, as fuse allocation changed over the period of manufacture.

Greeners · 7th January 2009, 07:31

Rob

I had a faulty switch pack yesterday. It's a very simple job to dismantle and clean. I gave the rubber membrane a quick wash in soapy water then dried on the radiator. Small brush to clean the PCB. Make sure the membrane goes back the correct way, and bingo, as good as new.

Mike · 7th January 2009, 13:16

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=4821

Moonstone · 7th January 2009, 17:04

On second thoughts, the problem could be a bad earth connection to the driver's panel. If you get the pack out, you'll see the Black wire, wired to a point behind the RH 'A' pillar. Haynes says the rear RH passenger door uses the same earth point - if that works, problem could be at the pack connector.

Hantsdave · 7th January 2009, 17:33

It's probably unrelated but when the temp went below-2c my driver's window switch started to play up. It wouldn't go all the way up on auto, only by jerky flicks of the switch. Once it warmed up it worked ok then in the evening when the temp dropped again the problem returned.

This has happened now for 3 days on the trot. Another querky little bit of tempremental 75 for you.

D.

Jedjim · 7th January 2009, 21:33

Can recommend Mikes thread just done mine and now working a treat.

Would like to wish all members
A HAPPY NEW YEAR.

5th January 2009, 15:28	#1
Rob Bell Gets stuck in ZT-T CDTi + Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: London Posts: 561 Thanks: 7 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts	Help: driver's window switch pack stopped working! Title says it all really! Our ZTT's battery recently went flat on us (the factory original, now over 5 years old, so not bad!). Attempted to jump start to get over to Halfords but no joy, but eventually a new battery was fitted, and Bob's your uncle, the ZT fired up first time. Not sure whether the failure of the switch pack has anything to do with the above, but we only noticed the problem since we replaced the battery. The windows work from the remaining switches, but the driver's panel is dead. Not even the electric mirrors function any more. No illumination - unless the headlamps are on, in which case the back lighting come on. Any suggestions folks? Happy New year to one and all

5th January 2009, 22:59	#4
afcbadam Gets stuck in 2004 MG ZS 180 Join Date: May 2008 Location: Southampton Posts: 978 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	there is a how to on these. may want to follow that as it has sorted alot of these out for people __________________ AFC Bournemouth www.themgzs.co.uk Inner wing open cone Oil catch tank Janspeed cat back Janspeed de-cat Reidy Re-mapped

7th January 2009, 07:31	#6
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Rob I had a faulty switch pack yesterday. It's a very simple job to dismantle and clean. I gave the rubber membrane a quick wash in soapy water then dried on the radiator. Small brush to clean the PCB. Make sure the membrane goes back the correct way, and bingo, as good as new. __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

7th January 2009, 13:16	#7
Mike This is my second home Rover 75 V8 Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 3,448 Thanks: 0 Thanked 206 Times in 32 Posts	http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=4821 __________________ Mike [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

7th January 2009, 17:33	#9
Hantsdave Loves to post 2004 CDTi SE TOURER Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hereford Posts: 427 Thanks: 110 Thanked 67 Times in 38 Posts	Too chilly? It's probably unrelated but when the temp went below-2c my driver's window switch started to play up. It wouldn't go all the way up on auto, only by jerky flicks of the switch. Once it warmed up it worked ok then in the evening when the temp dropped again the problem returned. This has happened now for 3 days on the trot. Another querky little bit of tempremental 75 for you. D. __________________ Previously owned..Austin Mini Countryman, Austin 1100 VDP, Princess 2200HL (x2), Ambassador VDP, TR7, Triumph Stag, Rover 820, Rover 216 GSi, Rover 420D, Rover 600 Si, Rover 600 GSi, Montego GSi, Rover 216 cabriolet, Jaguar XJ6 Gold, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Tourer CDTi (x3), Rover 75 CDT x 2, Rover 75 Connie V6, Rover 45. Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 x 2, Jeep Chrokee KK Plus a few other foreign ones I'm too embarrassed to mention..

5th January 2009, 15:35	#2
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	I seriously doubt that all 9 switches can fail at the same time, so I think the prob lies with main feed to that cluster. Fuse gone maybe? .

5th January 2009, 15:44	#3
Rob Bell Gets stuck in ZT-T CDTi + Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: London Posts: 561 Thanks: 7 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts	My thought too - but don't understand why all the other windows work fine? Anyone got a wiring diagram and can tell me whether the switch pack has its own fused power supply?

5th January 2009, 23:25	#5
Moonstone Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Scotland Posts: 412 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	In Haynes, the passenger door switches just connects earth to the BCU - there's no power except for the illumination. Fuse 4 feeds the driver's panel, as does fuse 11, though this is also listed for ATC and audio. Check your own handbook, as fuse allocation changed over the period of manufacture.

7th January 2009, 17:04	#8
Moonstone Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Scotland Posts: 412 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	On second thoughts, the problem could be a bad earth connection to the driver's panel. If you get the pack out, you'll see the Black wire, wired to a point behind the RH 'A' pillar. Haynes says the rear RH passenger door uses the same earth point - if that works, problem could be at the pack connector.

7th January 2009, 21:33	#10
Jedjim Newbie Rover 75 cdt Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Scottish Borders Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Window and Mirror Switch Can recommend Mikes thread just done mine and now working a treat. Would like to wish all members A HAPPY NEW YEAR.