Hello! Please help me to fix my newly acquired 2003 ZT+ cdti

Incastone · 21st June 2017, 14:40

Hi everyone,
Really hope you can help me get this car into shape!
Very glad to have found this club, it's a godsend.

Just to set the scene, I am not a car expert in any way, have only had my own car for a year, and (don't judge!) had never even heard of an MG ZT until 4 days ago when I saw one in racing green for sale, was immediately besotted by it, and bought it.
I was told I was mad but researching after buying it, I think my impulse was correct.

So I've done a lot of reading on here before posting this in order to try and avoid too many basic questions, hopefully you can help me work through this list of issues:

(don't have access to any tools until the weekend, hence more questions than action atm..)

1. Bumper droop!

I've understood that it's likely I'll have to reposition the slam panel/crash beam, but if (as in this case) there is a gap/clearance between the underside of the headlights and bumper, doesn't that indicate that the slam panel is already at the correct height, and so should it be possible to reposition the bumper without having to move the panel and beam?

It looks like it's hanging forwards and down, because the initial alignment with the wings is good, it gets worse the further forward you go:
(If people have had success doing this without touching the panel and beam, how did you do it/what's the best technique?)

2. Hard engine vibration when declutching into 1st.

This is slightly worrying. This only happens when moving off in first gear, there is a big shudder but then it drives away smoothly and other gears no problem. No weird engine sounds.
I thought at first it was linked to a badly fitted clutch, but sometimes, when just sitting at lights idling, there is sufficient movement in the engine that it actually rocks me back and forth in my seat.
So is this an engine mount problem, and is that something I can do myself or if not, how much should I expect to pay to get that looked at and fixed?

3. Clutch is stiff as hell

It had a new one fitted about 20K miles ago, and it's just so hard to depress - it gives me pains in my foot that I never had after 5-8 hours solid driving in my old c max.
Again, how much should I expect to pay to get this adjusted, or would it be done as part of a full service maybe?

4. Exhaust trim is missing screws.

Not sure if this is a standard or aftermarket thing but the little plate is missing two mini bolts/screws, and I assume two nuts as well?
What is this actually called and is it easy to get replacement fittings/where from?

5. Exhaust

Pretty sure this has seen better days..
The rest of it is fine, so I gather I need a new back box.
Could anyone recommend a good quality but economical replacement, for the CDTi?

6. Engine response

So I am pretty sure that this is a ZT+ CDTi 135.
It doesn't seem to have anywhere near as much grunt as it should have in first.
I worked out pretty quickly that this car has a high gear ratio and likes the pedal to be close to the floor - My last car was a 54 plate Ford C max 1.6 Tdci, and I don't think I ever really saw the revs edge past 2000 much.
This ZT begs for 3000 at least to really go, but in first and second it's pretty tame even compared to the Cmax.

I don't think this car has had a remap, I got a massive sheaf of receipts and work done with no mention, plus there are no visible stickers or anything.
This car was first registered in September 2003.
I'd like to have that bit extra power and fuel economy, so can I only tell if a remap has been done via a diagnostic tool, or is there some other way of finding out?

I understand there are members here that do remaps.
Is there an expert remapper out there that is local to the Raynes Park (SW20) area, and could help me get it done?

7. Microphone fitting

I guess that asking if there is a mic pre-fitted that just needs to be hooked up is asking too much.. But is there?!

How easy is it to fit a mic into this designated spot, or have those of you with BT systems just installed one externally?

8. MOT Advisories

A lot of work has been done on this car, it's had a new high pressure pump, new clutch, pad and disk condition are good front and back, caliper condition is decent, it's had new springs etc.
But I have these advisories from its last MOT in December:

a) Parking brake lever has little reserve travel

b) Rear parking (secondary) brake imbalance requirements only just met. Appears that the braking system requires adjustment or repair.

c) Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt (rear - both sides).

I've read about the handbrake woes, do you think points a) and b) could both be sorted by adjusting (lengthening) the cable and then adjusting the shoes at the drum?

What sort of job is replacing those dust covers in c)?

I love driving this car.
I can't believe I got a car that looks this good for less than £900, even if it does need attention.

Thanks very much in advance for any advice on any of these issues.

Cheers,

Matt

Stickman · 21st June 2017, 16:30

Hi Matt
You'll find the how to section on this forum to be most useful when you're ready to address some of the issues with your car
The bumper gap is covered in some detail but suffice to say you can adjust the fit yrself but you will have to loosen the crash beam and slam panel to enable some upwards adjustment
Your headlights appear to be slightly cloudy again you can sort this yrself with the aid of a 3m kit from Halfords etc
The exhaust trim on the bumper can be fixed with any screws you can find to fit
Alternatively place a wanted post on here for these and anything else you may be in need of
The vibration you mention is most likely to be an engine mount
I've fitted a Bluetooth mic more than once and found it easy
Remove the drivers side a pillar trim and yr stereo along with the panel below the steering wheel first - then armed with a torch and wire coat hanger you will be able to route your lead for the mic behind the dash and up the side of the dashboard at the drivers side ( this is the stage where the coat hanger comes into play) run the wire up the inside of the a pillar trim and locate the mic on the top of the trim
Handbrake will almost certainly need a new compensator or mini cable
See 'artic' excellent how to covering all aspects of handbrake issues
The clutch issue can be quite involved but I would start by bleeding it first
And see if it helps
As for the lack lustre performance you speak of - this May well be normal
The diesels aren't exactly what you'll describe as quick
'Marinabrian' can do a remap to take the horses up to 160 though
Have a look in the forum for any nano meets in your area
This would be the best way forward for you I'd suggest
Regards
Chris

Incastone · 22nd June 2017, 14:51

Hi Chris, thanks for the info, especially re the mic. Same process as the external one I put in my last car, so good start.
I was hoping there would be some wriggle room aligning the bumper before having to move the slam panel and crash beam but I think I was being too hopeful

I'm booked into a place in Streatham that was mentioned here a few times so that'll sort the engine mount out I hope, tempted to do a full service as well.
I bought the Mini R43/R50 handbrake part, there was only one left for sale on eBay so I didn't chance it.

Thanks again for your help!

jockmcjock · 22nd June 2017, 16:59

Hi Matt and welcome.

Can only second most of what Chris has said, make use of the how to's and the search and you should find everything you need.

Only thing I would add is that you may find that the lack of performance is due to a duff mass air flow sensor or MAF. Again a search will yield lots of info on this. Quick test is to unplug it and take the car for a spin and see if performance improves. If it does than it may be suspect. The reason I say 'may' is that unplugging the MAF bypass a lot of enging control systems and the only sure way to know is to get one of the T4 boys to plug in and diagnose where the issue lies. Replacement MAFs are not cheap (£120+) and most will recommend that you only get a genuine Bosch item.

Good luck and please keep us all posted on progress!

lionatus · 22nd June 2017, 18:13

Vibration can also be air filter, MAF and Lower engine mount.
Any drop in low rev performance seems to exaserbate the problem.
I know I've been getting mine for ages until I got a decent mount from Matt at DMGRS. Added new air filter today and all pull away vibration gone.

Oh and don't use supermarket fuel whatever you do its not good, kills MPG, and is a totally false economy.

The bumper maybe just attached to far forward on the middle 5 bolts.
If Im not watching when Im reattaching it can be really skewwiff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stickman

Hi Matt
You'll find the how to section on this forum to be most useful when you're ready to address some of the issues with your car
The bumper gap is covered in some detail but suffice to say you can adjust the fit yrself but you will have to loosen the crash beam and slam panel to enable some upwards adjustment
Your headlights appear to be slightly cloudy again you can sort this yrself with the aid of a 3m kit from Halfords etc
The exhaust trim on the bumper can be fixed with any screws you can find to fit
Alternatively place a wanted post on here for these and anything else you may be in need of
The vibration you mention is most likely to be an engine mount
I've fitted a Bluetooth mic more than once and found it easy
Remove the drivers side a pillar trim and yr stereo along with the panel below the steering wheel first - then armed with a torch and wire coat hanger you will be able to route your lead for the mic behind the dash and up the side of the dashboard at the drivers side ( this is the stage where the coat hanger comes into play) run the wire up the inside of the a pillar trim and locate the mic on the top of the trim
Handbrake will almost certainly need a new compensator or mini cable
See 'artic' excellent how to covering all aspects of handbrake issues
The clutch issue can be quite involved but I would start by bleeding it first
And see if it helps
As for the lack lustre performance you speak of - this May well be normal
The diesels aren't exactly what you'll describe as quick
'Marinabrian' can do a remap to take the horses up to 160 though
Have a look in the forum for any nano meets in your area
This would be the best way forward for you I'd suggest
Regards
Chris

Incastone · 22nd June 2017, 22:00

Hello guys,

took your advice and disconnected the MAF plug, and it feels like the car just shed a few hundred kilos.
That's awesome! Well kind of, as it means I need to replace it, I guess.
My engine temp gauge doesn't work after remving the plug, I assume that's normal.

Re fuel; I was told by an old-hand that every three months I should put transmission cleaning fluid in to the fuel tank - half a pint per half a tank ratio, which keeps all the injectors clean.
Is this a myth or good practise?

Edit: I think I need to split these issues into chunks..

Arctic · 23rd June 2017, 09:48

Quote:

Matt
2. Hard engine vibration when declutching into 1st.

This is slightly worrying. This only happens when moving off in first gear, there is a big shudder but then it drives away smoothly and other gears no problem. No weird engine sounds.
I thought at first it was linked to a badly fitted clutch, but sometimes, when just sitting at lights idling, there is sufficient movement in the engine that it actually rocks me back and forth in my seat.
So is this an engine mount problem, and is that something I can do myself or if not, how much should I expect to pay to get that looked at and fixed?

Matt.
This is most likely the lower engine mount, get the car up on to some ramps, remove the under tray if you have one fitted, car in to neutral then remove the tear drop mount check it out, any tears replace it with a polyflex mount, or genuine rover mount.

Only buy the power flex from genuine authorised seller as some ebay sellers are trying to sell the same mount for double the price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerflex-...72.m2749.l2649

If buying the genuine original mount make sure it as the letter T stamped on it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-RO...kAAOSwBahU0L7h

Another alternative is the Jag mount.

Also as you say deal with one item at a time and post separate £10 subs will give you more choice to look in different threads with photo attached

Avulon · 23rd June 2017, 11:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Incastone

Hello guys,

took your advice and disconnected the MAF plug, and it feels like the car just shed a few hundred kilos.
That's awesome! Well kind of, as it means I need to replace it,

Better replaced, but doesn't need to be top of the priority list, just leave disconnected until you can afford a genuine one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Incastone

I guess.
My engine temp gauge doesn't work after remving the plug, I assume that's normal.

No, it's not normal

Quote:

Originally Posted by Incastone

Re fuel; I was told by an old-hand that every three months I should put transmission cleaning fluid in to the fuel tank - half a pint per half a tank ratio, which keeps all the injectors clean.
Is this a myth or good practise?

Edit: I think I need to split these issues into chunks..

The only fuel additive you should use is injector cleaner - or just use quality fuel instead. Having just bought it, it would be a good idea to run a full tankful of quality fuel with added injector cleaner anyway. (I've no idea what 'transmission cleaning fluid' is anyway: if anything it's for cleaning transmissions and not sensitive High pressure common rail direct injection diesel fuel systems!)

hogweed · 23rd June 2017, 12:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Incastone

Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt

I’ve had that every MOT for 7 years now. Still passes though

Lynyrd Skynner · 23rd June 2017, 13:14

Hi Matt , Most people have covered the other issues but as for your knackered backbox I went to Fastlane Styling in Romford and they removed the backbox completely with a some new pipe work and some lovely chrome tail pipes all for £130 looks so much better...here is mine ..

21st June 2017, 14:40	#1
Incastone Avid contributor MG ZT+ CDTi, 2003, HFF. Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: London Posts: 118 Thanks: 11 Thanked 23 Times in 14 Posts	Hello! Please help me to fix my newly acquired 2003 ZT+ cdti Hi everyone, Really hope you can help me get this car into shape! Very glad to have found this club, it's a godsend. Just to set the scene, I am not a car expert in any way, have only had my own car for a year, and (don't judge!) had never even heard of an MG ZT until 4 days ago when I saw one in racing green for sale, was immediately besotted by it, and bought it. I was told I was mad but researching after buying it, I think my impulse was correct. So I've done a lot of reading on here before posting this in order to try and avoid too many basic questions, hopefully you can help me work through this list of issues: (don't have access to any tools until the weekend, hence more questions than action atm..) 1. Bumper droop! I've understood that it's likely I'll have to reposition the slam panel/crash beam, but if (as in this case) there is a gap/clearance between the underside of the headlights and bumper, doesn't that indicate that the slam panel is already at the correct height, and so should it be possible to reposition the bumper without having to move the panel and beam? It looks like it's hanging forwards and down, because the initial alignment with the wings is good, it gets worse the further forward you go: (If people have had success doing this without touching the panel and beam, how did you do it/what's the best technique?) 2. Hard engine vibration when declutching into 1st. This is slightly worrying. This only happens when moving off in first gear, there is a big shudder but then it drives away smoothly and other gears no problem. No weird engine sounds. I thought at first it was linked to a badly fitted clutch, but sometimes, when just sitting at lights idling, there is sufficient movement in the engine that it actually rocks me back and forth in my seat. So is this an engine mount problem, and is that something I can do myself or if not, how much should I expect to pay to get that looked at and fixed? 3. Clutch is stiff as hell It had a new one fitted about 20K miles ago, and it's just so hard to depress - it gives me pains in my foot that I never had after 5-8 hours solid driving in my old c max. Again, how much should I expect to pay to get this adjusted, or would it be done as part of a full service maybe? 4. Exhaust trim is missing screws. Not sure if this is a standard or aftermarket thing but the little plate is missing two mini bolts/screws, and I assume two nuts as well? What is this actually called and is it easy to get replacement fittings/where from? 5. Exhaust Pretty sure this has seen better days.. The rest of it is fine, so I gather I need a new back box. Could anyone recommend a good quality but economical replacement, for the CDTi? 6. Engine response So I am pretty sure that this is a ZT+ CDTi 135. It doesn't seem to have anywhere near as much grunt as it should have in first. I worked out pretty quickly that this car has a high gear ratio and likes the pedal to be close to the floor - My last car was a 54 plate Ford C max 1.6 Tdci, and I don't think I ever really saw the revs edge past 2000 much. This ZT begs for 3000 at least to really go, but in first and second it's pretty tame even compared to the Cmax. I don't think this car has had a remap, I got a massive sheaf of receipts and work done with no mention, plus there are no visible stickers or anything. This car was first registered in September 2003. I'd like to have that bit extra power and fuel economy, so can I only tell if a remap has been done via a diagnostic tool, or is there some other way of finding out? I understand there are members here that do remaps. Is there an expert remapper out there that is local to the Raynes Park (SW20) area, and could help me get it done? 7. Microphone fitting I guess that asking if there is a mic pre-fitted that just needs to be hooked up is asking too much.. But is there?! How easy is it to fit a mic into this designated spot, or have those of you with BT systems just installed one externally? 8. MOT Advisories A lot of work has been done on this car, it's had a new high pressure pump, new clutch, pad and disk condition are good front and back, caliper condition is decent, it's had new springs etc. But I have these advisories from its last MOT in December: a) Parking brake lever has little reserve travel b) Rear parking (secondary) brake imbalance requirements only just met. Appears that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. c) Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt (rear - both sides). I've read about the handbrake woes, do you think points a) and b) could both be sorted by adjusting (lengthening) the cable and then adjusting the shoes at the drum? What sort of job is replacing those dust covers in c)? I love driving this car. I can't believe I got a car that looks this good for less than £900, even if it does need attention. Thanks very much in advance for any advice on any of these issues. Cheers, Matt

22nd June 2017, 22:00	#6
Incastone Avid contributor MG ZT+ CDTi, 2003, HFF. Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: London Posts: 118 Thanks: 11 Thanked 23 Times in 14 Posts	Hello guys, took your advice and disconnected the MAF plug, and it feels like the car just shed a few hundred kilos. That's awesome! Well kind of, as it means I need to replace it, I guess. My engine temp gauge doesn't work after remving the plug, I assume that's normal. Re fuel; I was told by an old-hand that every three months I should put transmission cleaning fluid in to the fuel tank - half a pint per half a tank ratio, which keeps all the injectors clean. Is this a myth or good practise? Edit: I think I need to split these issues into chunks.. Last edited by Incastone; 22nd June 2017 at 23:07..

23rd June 2017, 13:14	#10
Lynyrd Skynner Regional Secretary: South Central None at the moment Join Date: May 2013 Location: Leighton Buzzard Posts: 1,726 Thanks: 676 Thanked 526 Times in 286 Posts	Hi Matt , Most people have covered the other issues but as for your knackered backbox I went to Fastlane Styling in Romford and they removed the backbox completely with a some new pipe work and some lovely chrome tail pipes all for £130 looks so much better...here is mine .. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Started out with nothing , and still got most of it left!....

21st June 2017, 16:30	#2
Stickman Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bordon Posts: 1,856 Thanks: 250 Thanked 403 Times in 352 Posts	Hi Matt You'll find the how to section on this forum to be most useful when you're ready to address some of the issues with your car The bumper gap is covered in some detail but suffice to say you can adjust the fit yrself but you will have to loosen the crash beam and slam panel to enable some upwards adjustment Your headlights appear to be slightly cloudy again you can sort this yrself with the aid of a 3m kit from Halfords etc The exhaust trim on the bumper can be fixed with any screws you can find to fit Alternatively place a wanted post on here for these and anything else you may be in need of The vibration you mention is most likely to be an engine mount I've fitted a Bluetooth mic more than once and found it easy Remove the drivers side a pillar trim and yr stereo along with the panel below the steering wheel first - then armed with a torch and wire coat hanger you will be able to route your lead for the mic behind the dash and up the side of the dashboard at the drivers side ( this is the stage where the coat hanger comes into play) run the wire up the inside of the a pillar trim and locate the mic on the top of the trim Handbrake will almost certainly need a new compensator or mini cable See 'artic' excellent how to covering all aspects of handbrake issues The clutch issue can be quite involved but I would start by bleeding it first And see if it helps As for the lack lustre performance you speak of - this May well be normal The diesels aren't exactly what you'll describe as quick 'Marinabrian' can do a remap to take the horses up to 160 though Have a look in the forum for any nano meets in your area This would be the best way forward for you I'd suggest Regards Chris

22nd June 2017, 14:51	#3
Incastone Avid contributor MG ZT+ CDTi, 2003, HFF. Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: London Posts: 118 Thanks: 11 Thanked 23 Times in 14 Posts	Hi Chris, thanks for the info, especially re the mic. Same process as the external one I put in my last car, so good start. I was hoping there would be some wriggle room aligning the bumper before having to move the slam panel and crash beam but I think I was being too hopeful I'm booked into a place in Streatham that was mentioned here a few times so that'll sort the engine mount out I hope, tempted to do a full service as well. I bought the Mini R43/R50 handbrake part, there was only one left for sale on eBay so I didn't chance it. Thanks again for your help!

22nd June 2017, 16:59	#4
jockmcjock Regular poster CDTi ZT-T+ Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Cramlington Posts: 84 Thanks: 4 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Hi Matt and welcome. Can only second most of what Chris has said, make use of the how to's and the search and you should find everything you need. Only thing I would add is that you may find that the lack of performance is due to a duff mass air flow sensor or MAF. Again a search will yield lots of info on this. Quick test is to unplug it and take the car for a spin and see if performance improves. If it does than it may be suspect. The reason I say 'may' is that unplugging the MAF bypass a lot of enging control systems and the only sure way to know is to get one of the T4 boys to plug in and diagnose where the issue lies. Replacement MAFs are not cheap (£120+) and most will recommend that you only get a genuine Bosch item. Good luck and please keep us all posted on progress!