Clutch pedal stiff - Page 2

Dallas · 20th June 2017, 18:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorset Bob

I hate to say it Wes, but my pedal started to feel stiff and then I had a terminal slave cylinder failure.

I hope it is not the case with your car.

I reckon that will be the case Bob, she is on 102k, bound to be the original.

What exactly happened with yours Bob, is it a case of pedal hitting the floor?

Dorset Bob · 20th June 2017, 19:27

The pedal was stiff, but the biting point was fine.
Then one day it just went, no clutch at all.

I think that low biting point is normally due to master cylinder problems/ air in the system, but a stiff clutch indicates other clutch issues, such as the slave or the release bearing.

Dallas · 20th June 2017, 20:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorset Bob

The pedal was stiff, but the biting point was fine.
Then one day it just went, no clutch at all.

I think that low biting point is normally due to master cylinder problems/ air in the system, but a stiff clutch indicates other clutch issues, such as the slave or the release bearing.

I do have a low biting point.

I may just book her in and get her looked at, trouble is finding a decent and trustworthy garage.

murphyv310 · 21st June 2017, 07:38

Oddly COA had a stiff clutch and I sprayed silicone lube through the pushrod gaiter on the master cylinder, it made it a lot lighter, eventually I fitted a MK1 Tazu. May not be your problem Wes but worth a try.

Dallas · 21st June 2017, 10:32

Thanks Trev, I will give it a go.

Something I forgot to mention, I do have a vibration now and again when pulling away, but she has always done this (DMF)?

The clutch pedal has certainly started to feel stiff, can also be difficult engaging gears now and again, but this is slowly becoming worst. I've driven the car the past three days and the fault seems to becoming more evident, she is now becoming difficult to drive, so its not looking good.

UPDATE!
The same old story down south, garage prices for repairs on these vehicles have hit the roof.

I've had two quotes, and now I need a stiff drink.

First quote is £900 with a LUK Clutch kit including DMF, but no MC as it may not be needed.

Second quote £950 with LUK Clutch kit including MC, but no DMF (£300+ if needed).

Oh dear, I knew this time would come.

murphyv310 · 21st June 2017, 10:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dallas

Thanks Trev, I will give it a go.

Something I forgot to mention, I do have a vibration now and again when pulling away, but she has always done this (DMF)?

The clutch pedal has certainly started to feel stiff, can also be difficult engaging gears now and again, but this is slowly becoming worst. I've driven the car the past three days and the fault seems to becoming more evident, she is now becoming difficult to drive, so its not looking good.

UPDATE!
The same old story down south, garage prices for repairs on these vehicles have hit the roof.

I've had two quotes, and now I need a stiff drink.

First quote is £900 with a LUK Clutch kit including DMF, but no MC as it may not be needed.

Second quote £950 with LUK Clutch kit including MC, but no DMF (£300+ if needed).

Oh dear, I knew this time would come.

Oh dear Wes, to me that's really scary prices, no wonder the cars are dying out with those charges.

DMF,s though are rarely faulty especially in the petrol cars

Westonboy · 21st June 2017, 11:07

Shame you dont live closer to Jules, he just did my cdt clutch for a very reasonable cost, the man is a legend.

Dallas · 21st June 2017, 11:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by murphyv310

Oh dear Wes, to me that's really scary prices, no wonder the cars are dying out with those charges.

DMF,s though are rarely faulty especially in the petrol cars

I've been told the same Trev by one garage, and the other reckons I will need a DMF, you just cant trust some of these garage services.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Westonboy

Shame you dont live closer to Jules, he just did my cdt clutch for a very reasonable cost, the man is a legend.

I agree, if only.

Seems I have a dilemma on my hands...
1: Do I go with what my heart is telling me, keep her and get the clutch sorted, she is in great condition after-all, and the belts were done this year.

2: Common sense tells me £900+ is a ridiculous amount for one repair on a vehicle this age.

Drive her until the clutch totally fails, could be days, could be weeks, months... who knows.

She is way to good to scrap though, but what is one meant to do?

I'm a strong believer in not wasting money, paying for something I feel is worth the money, or the risk (I have my father to blame).

Number 6 · 21st June 2017, 11:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dallas

I've been told the same Trev by one garage, and the other reckons I will need a DMF, you just cant trust some of these garage services.

I agree, if only.

Seems I have a dilemma on my hands...
1: Do I go with what my heart is telling me, keep her and get the clutch sorted, she is in great condition after-all, and the belts were done this year.

2: Common sense tells me £900+ is a ridiculous amount for one repair on a vehicle this age.

Drive her until the clutch totally fails, could be days, could be weeks, months... who knows.

She is way to good to scrap though, but what is one meant to do?

I'm a strong believer in not wasting money, paying for something I feel is worth the money, or the risk (I have my father to blame).

Take a two day holiday to North Wales and have a word with Jules..

Dorset Bob · 21st June 2017, 12:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Number 6

Take a two day holiday to North Wales and have a word with Jules..

That is what I did when I had my belts done.

20th June 2017, 19:27	#12
Dorset Bob Senior Citizen Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur SE,Chrysler 300C,124 Spider, Daytona 955i,Honda XL250 & Royal Enfield 650GT Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Kingdom of Wessex Posts: 6,976 Thanks: 2,391 Thanked 2,685 Times in 1,686 Posts	The pedal was stiff, but the biting point was fine. Then one day it just went, no clutch at all. I think that low biting point is normally due to master cylinder problems/ air in the system, but a stiff clutch indicates other clutch issues, such as the slave or the release bearing. __________________ Let the good times roll............

21st June 2017, 07:38	#14
murphyv310 This is my second home Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 6,602 Thanks: 2,088 Thanked 2,298 Times in 1,349 Posts	Oddly COA had a stiff clutch and I sprayed silicone lube through the pushrod gaiter on the master cylinder, it made it a lot lighter, eventually I fitted a MK1 Tazu. May not be your problem Wes but worth a try. __________________ Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ

21st June 2017, 10:32	#15
Dallas This is my second home 1979 Capri 1.6L, 1982 Capri 1.6L, 2016 Dacia Stepway Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dorset Posts: 8,595 Thanks: 3,496 Thanked 3,397 Times in 2,218 Posts	Thanks Trev, I will give it a go. Something I forgot to mention, I do have a vibration now and again when pulling away, but she has always done this (DMF)? The clutch pedal has certainly started to feel stiff, can also be difficult engaging gears now and again, but this is slowly becoming worst. I've driven the car the past three days and the fault seems to becoming more evident, she is now becoming difficult to drive, so its not looking good. UPDATE! The same old story down south, garage prices for repairs on these vehicles have hit the roof. I've had two quotes, and now I need a stiff drink. First quote is £900 with a LUK Clutch kit including DMF, but no MC as it may not be needed. Second quote £950 with LUK Clutch kit including MC, but no DMF (£300+ if needed). Oh dear, I knew this time would come.

21st June 2017, 11:07	#17
Westonboy Posted a thing or two Honda Jazz Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Llangollen Posts: 1,025 Thanks: 301 Thanked 344 Times in 158 Posts	Shame you dont live closer to Jules, he just did my cdt clutch for a very reasonable cost, the man is a legend.