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Old 8th June 2017, 15:29   #21
DennisA
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I've changed two pulleys on my R75, one original which failed after just over 60k miles and then again after stupidly buying a cheapo on Ebay which lasted 4k only. I am a retired engineer and had the same problems as you, I have a pretty comprehensive tool kit but nothing would move the pulley bolt - in the end I hired a 1000Nm impact wrench from HSS and that did the job both times. But!!! the wrench is for professional use so 110v so you need to hire the transformer as well all in all costs about £65.

The pulley just failed again, a Corteco which lasted again just over 60k miles, same as original, this time I purchased a new pulley and then enquired of my friendly garage in Chester, I know the guy fairly well and he knows R75s he does jobs I either don't want to do (not many!) or when it is winter and I don't fancy being cold and wet under the car for hours! He said £75 cash, he took 2 hours maximum, which for me it is best part of 2 days under the car on my back and at 73 years that is a no brainer and only £10 more than the hire equipment. He, of course, has all the gear, a large windy impact wrench plus car up on ramp for easy access and someone to help when needed.

Sometimes doing it yourself is good and enjoyable but I think I have done my last DIY R75 pulley change!

Brgds Dennis
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Old 22nd June 2017, 12:13   #22
lektrix
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Thank you to everybody who answered me regarding the pulley removal problem. Just a quick update to say I did complete the replacement after much messing about and unhelpful professionals who 'could definitely do the job'.
I bought the locking tool, a 3/4" drive set of tools including the socket, extension bars and breaker bar. A six foot scaffold pole was still needed as well! Sadly the locking tool would not fit into the pulley enough because of the domed part of the bolt so a small amount had to be removed to allow for a better fit. Also the socket was just a bit to large to fit through the centre of the locking tool so a lathe was used to take a reduce it. Because a ramp wasn't used the front bumper was removed to allow for the handle of the locking tool to be fitted and used. Would have been to short to hold onto otherwise. After setting everything up, with a helper I was able to undo the pulley bolt and with the use of a an angle gauge able to fit the new pulley, washer and bolt. Of course I now have kit which I won't need again (hopefully). I would be happy to loan the tools if anybody needs them but not if you intend using this starter motor method of doing the job, not with my tools thanks. Thank you again to everybody for their advice and help. Steve.
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Old 22nd June 2017, 12:24   #23
EastPete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lektrix View Post
Thank you to everybody who answered me regarding the pulley removal problem. Just a quick update to say I did complete the replacement after much messing about and unhelpful professionals who 'could definitely do the job'.
I bought the locking tool, a 3/4" drive set of tools including the socket, extension bars and breaker bar. A six foot scaffold pole was still needed as well! Sadly the locking tool would not fit into the pulley enough because of the domed part of the bolt so a small amount had to be removed to allow for a better fit. Also the socket was just a bit to large to fit through the centre of the locking tool so a lathe was used to take a reduce it. Because a ramp wasn't used the front bumper was removed to allow for the handle of the locking tool to be fitted and used. Would have been to short to hold onto otherwise. After setting everything up, with a helper I was able to undo the pulley bolt and with the use of a an angle gauge able to fit the new pulley, washer and bolt. Of course I now have kit which I won't need again (hopefully). I would be happy to loan the tools if anybody needs them but not if you intend using this starter motor method of doing the job, not with my tools thanks. Thank you again to everybody for their advice and help. Steve.
Well done Stephen - not a nice job. If had seen your original post I could have loaned you the locking tool. I have been away recently, and been away from the forum for a couple of weeks, so missed the post. You can put an extension piece (about 12 inch) into the 3/4" 22mm socket so that the breaker bar/scaffold bar clears the bumper/wing, so no need to remove the bumper.

Pete
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Old 22nd June 2017, 12:43   #24
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Hello Pete, typical isn't, them locking tools are not cheap either. I did have an extension on the socket but it was the locking tool that was the problem. There is no where for the handle of it to go except downwards which is ok if you have the car up on a 4 poster ramp. Mine was just up on stands. Since the job has taken so long it wasn't too much extra hassle removing the bumper. Glad it is done now. I was worried about being able to finish the job because several people had taken a look and a hammer had been used and damaged the castellated part of the pulley. I had to grind away and knock back into shape much of it. Thanks again.
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