Diesel M47R Crank Pulley Removal.... - Page 2

T-Cut · 6th June 2017, 21:15

@zaph
Many people have done it that way but the op said he didn't want to.
TC

lektrix · 6th June 2017, 21:28

Hello, thank you again, no I definitely didn't want to use the starter as I already said in my original message. I am very interested in the induction method but so far have found nobody locally with the equipment. I will order a locking tool and try a make up something a bit more substantial in the way of a breaker bar as I already snapped a extension and bar I tried before. The only problem is that in trusting so called professionals the castellated part of the pulley has been damaged.

Annie · 6th June 2017, 23:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by zaph

there is a sure fire why that worked for us on an old xantia, but it is very much try at your own risk. Get a socket on a bar, put bar in pipe, firmly wedge pipe in ground. Turn engine over, crank nut is loose.

Like i said it is potentially dangerous, so at your own risk, but it does work.

i did this on my citroen c5. Took 2 mins to change the crank pulley and 2 mins to put belt back on.

lektrix · 7th June 2017, 01:56

I have already stated I am not interested in this method.

Annie · 7th June 2017, 03:09

so sorry, wont bother to contribute then.

cb750chris · 7th June 2017, 11:28

I am aware Lektrix does not want to use the starter method, so this comment is not for Him,
But when using the starter motor "trick" you are placing a huge stress on the crank.
Also this method does not always work. I did try it on a car, and all that happened was that the front of the car lifted a bit, until the starter motor couldn't turn any more....
The best answer is to use the proper holding tool and an impact gun (or failing that a big bar)
Chris

Synchromesh · 7th June 2017, 12:17

I couldn't get mine off with 1/2 inch drive tools so was at a local tool shop enquiring on availability of 1 inch drive tools. A local mechanic also buying some tools said he would have a go on a no remove no charge basis. He had done one or two diesel 75s before. He struggled a bit but did eventually manage it using induction heater and Snap On high torque electric impact wrench.

lektrix · 8th June 2017, 11:37

Hello, thank you all for the information. I am interested in the induction method, I have not been able to find any garage locally with either the equipment or any knowledge of it in some cases. Some interesting stuff online about it though. Anyway I am still looking to buy the locking tool, I found a supplier in Germany. I hope then to make up a better quality bar than I tried before and snapped and give it another go. The only problem is that during attempted removal by the 'professionals' the castellated part of the pulley is now damaged. See what happens.

RPWC · 8th June 2017, 12:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by lektrix

Hello,
It has been suggested using the starter to turn the engine over with a socket and bar jammed into bodywork to loosen the bolt. I am not interested in suggestions like this. The car has quite a lot of service history but as far as I can see the pulley has not been changed before. I thought maybe it could have had lock tight used on the bolt. I realise these things are very tight but would have thought it should be possible to do surely. I look forward to hearing from folks about this. Steve.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lektrix

Hello, thank you again, no I definitely didn't want to use the starter as I already said in my original message. I am very interested in the induction method but so far have found nobody locally with the equipment. I will order a locking tool and try a make up something a bit more substantial in the way of a breaker bar as I already snapped a extension and bar I tried before. The only problem is that in trusting so called professionals the castellated part of the pulley has been damaged.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lektrix

I have already stated I am not interested in this method.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Annie

so sorry, wont bother to contribute then.

A bit harsh, the o p has stated twice previously he did not want to use that method. His car, his choice, was there any need for that comment,? he came here looking for help, not criticism.

Annie · 8th June 2017, 13:26

I was telling an anecdote, not offering advice.

7th June 2017, 03:09	#15
Annie Avid contributor 2002 CDT Auto Con SE Saloon Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Worthing Posts: 113 Thanks: 62 Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts	so sorry, wont bother to contribute then. __________________ This vehicle was the 39,542nd 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 1,594th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 3,712th 75 in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 7,515 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75s

7th June 2017, 11:28	#16
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	I am aware Lektrix does not want to use the starter method, so this comment is not for Him, But when using the starter motor "trick" you are placing a huge stress on the crank. Also this method does not always work. I did try it on a car, and all that happened was that the front of the car lifted a bit, until the starter motor couldn't turn any more.... The best answer is to use the proper holding tool and an impact gun (or failing that a big bar) Chris __________________ Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut Diesel 135 upgrade available IPK virginisation and T4 matching available Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics.

8th June 2017, 13:26	#20
Annie Avid contributor 2002 CDT Auto Con SE Saloon Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Worthing Posts: 113 Thanks: 62 Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts	I was telling an anecdote, not offering advice. __________________ This vehicle was the 39,542nd 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 1,594th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 3,712th 75 in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 7,515 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75s

6th June 2017, 21:15	#11
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,752 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	@zaph Many people have done it that way but the op said he didn't want to. TC

6th June 2017, 21:28	#12
lektrix Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Leicester Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Hello, thank you again, no I definitely didn't want to use the starter as I already said in my original message. I am very interested in the induction method but so far have found nobody locally with the equipment. I will order a locking tool and try a make up something a bit more substantial in the way of a breaker bar as I already snapped a extension and bar I tried before. The only problem is that in trusting so called professionals the castellated part of the pulley has been damaged.

7th June 2017, 01:56	#14
lektrix Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Leicester Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I have already stated I am not interested in this method.

7th June 2017, 12:17	#17
Synchromesh Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Preston Posts: 624 Thanks: 50 Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts	I couldn't get mine off with 1/2 inch drive tools so was at a local tool shop enquiring on availability of 1 inch drive tools. A local mechanic also buying some tools said he would have a go on a no remove no charge basis. He had done one or two diesel 75s before. He struggled a bit but did eventually manage it using induction heater and Snap On high torque electric impact wrench.

8th June 2017, 11:37	#18
lektrix Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Leicester Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Hello, thank you all for the information. I am interested in the induction method, I have not been able to find any garage locally with either the equipment or any knowledge of it in some cases. Some interesting stuff online about it though. Anyway I am still looking to buy the locking tool, I found a supplier in Germany. I hope then to make up a better quality bar than I tried before and snapped and give it another go. The only problem is that during attempted removal by the 'professionals' the castellated part of the pulley is now damaged. See what happens.