Diesel M47R Crank Pulley Removal....

lektrix · 6th June 2017, 10:46

Hello,

I am hoping somebody out there will be able to help. My diesel engine recently developed a clatter noise which steadily got worse over a few weeks. The problem is the crank pulley so I bought a new one together with a new bolt and washer. I followed the guidance in the service manual, removed the starter to allow for locking up the flywheel, extended bar on the crank pulley bolt for leverage but was unable to loosen the bolt even with a bit of heat on the bolt. Next a friend tried with an impact wrench though I think it may have been to small. Next I called in a mobile mechanic who tried the same techniques and also was not successful. I called a second mobile mechanic and explained the difficulty I was having and he assured me it would be no problem. They were not successful either but did manage to removed quite a bit of paint off the bumper while trying. The reason I haven't used a garage is because I like to carry out the work myself and because I can spend the time doing the job and not have damage caused like on this occasion where I have used somebody else. Also I am replacing the front suspension springs and dampers so the car isn't drivable at the moment. I think that maybe a much large or more powerful impact wrench would be needed. I wondered if anybody else had had a problem with this and if there is anyone who can carry out this work successfully preferably mobile or a garage I can take the car where it would be looked after properly. It has been suggested using the starter to turn the engine over with a socket and bar jammed into bodywork to loosen the bolt. I am not interested in suggestions like this. The car has quite a lot of service history but as far as I can see the pulley has not been changed before. I thought maybe it could have had lock tight used on the bolt. I realise these things are very tight but would have thought it should be possible to do surely. I look forward to hearing from folks about this. Steve.

T-Cut · 6th June 2017, 13:56

Every diesel owner has this problem with the crankshaft pulley. The official method uses a pulley holding tool, rather than locking the flywheel. This removes any stress/flex on the crankshaft.

Having said that, these tools are few and far between and you still need a six foot scaffold pipe on the socket. There was a 'home made' version of the tool recently being sold on eBay, but I can't see one at the moment. You might be able to hire one somewhere. The bolts are supplied with a thread sealant I believe, but that's not what's stopping you getting it off. They're simply installed ultratight.

TC

humphshumphs · 6th June 2017, 14:35

When I had mine replaced at a garage, then ended up using an induction heater and a 3/4" windy gun and then it played ball.

RPWC · 6th June 2017, 14:44

Colin (2 diesels) did mine last year, we borrowed the holding tool from Brian, and even the impact wrench wouldn't undo the bolt, he had to use a socket and extension bar, with a power bar to get it slack, it took a while. To replace it we borrowed a 3/4 drive socket, ground down to fit inside the holding tool, along with 3/4 drive extension bar and power bar. Remember the tightening sequence, 100nm, then 60 degrees, 30 degrees, and a final 30 degrees.

lektrix · 6th June 2017, 15:05

Thank you to everybody who has kindly replied. I found a supplier of the locking tool. Bit expensive and also the castellated part on the pulley has been damaged after being hit by the looks of it. Not sure what to do. I also heard of the induction heating method as well which sounds promising. Nobody around seems to have the kit for this. Going to buy the locking tool and make a hefty bar up and see if I can get it done. Thank you again.

RPWC · 6th June 2017, 15:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by lektrix

Thank you to everybody who has kindly replied. I found a supplier of the locking tool. Bit expensive and also the castellated part on the pulley has been damaged after being hit by the looks of it. Not sure what to do. I also heard of the induction heating method as well which sounds promising. Nobody around seems to have the kit for this. Going to buy the locking tool and make a hefty bar up and see if I can get it done. Thank you again.

Good luck, don't forget to post back and let us know how you got on.

T-Cut · 6th June 2017, 20:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by lektrix

I found a supplier of the locking tool. - - - Going to buy the locking tool - - -

There's a steady need for this gizmo, so you could hire it out and recoup some of the outlay. The genuine tools are pretty expensive.

TC

cossie dunc · 6th June 2017, 20:46

The induction heater is the way to go, it's never let me down yet and I've changed a fair few

trikey · 6th June 2017, 20:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie dunc

The induction heater is the way to go, it's never let me down yet and I've changed a fair few

Either that or a 3/4 drive impact gun

zaph · 6th June 2017, 21:11

There is a sure fire why that worked for us on an old Xantia, but it is very much try at your own risk. Get a socket on a bar, put bar in pipe, firmly wedge pipe in ground. Turn engine over, crank nut is loose.

Like I said it is potentially dangerous, so at your own risk, but it does work.

6th June 2017, 10:46	#1
lektrix Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Leicester Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Diesel M47R Crank Pulley Removal.... Hello, I am hoping somebody out there will be able to help. My diesel engine recently developed a clatter noise which steadily got worse over a few weeks. The problem is the crank pulley so I bought a new one together with a new bolt and washer. I followed the guidance in the service manual, removed the starter to allow for locking up the flywheel, extended bar on the crank pulley bolt for leverage but was unable to loosen the bolt even with a bit of heat on the bolt. Next a friend tried with an impact wrench though I think it may have been to small. Next I called in a mobile mechanic who tried the same techniques and also was not successful. I called a second mobile mechanic and explained the difficulty I was having and he assured me it would be no problem. They were not successful either but did manage to removed quite a bit of paint off the bumper while trying. The reason I haven't used a garage is because I like to carry out the work myself and because I can spend the time doing the job and not have damage caused like on this occasion where I have used somebody else. Also I am replacing the front suspension springs and dampers so the car isn't drivable at the moment. I think that maybe a much large or more powerful impact wrench would be needed. I wondered if anybody else had had a problem with this and if there is anyone who can carry out this work successfully preferably mobile or a garage I can take the car where it would be looked after properly. It has been suggested using the starter to turn the engine over with a socket and bar jammed into bodywork to loosen the bolt. I am not interested in suggestions like this. The car has quite a lot of service history but as far as I can see the pulley has not been changed before. I thought maybe it could have had lock tight used on the bolt. I realise these things are very tight but would have thought it should be possible to do surely. I look forward to hearing from folks about this. Steve.

6th June 2017, 14:35	#3
humphshumphs I really should get out more....... No longer a Rover Owner Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: As far east as you can go in the UK and not get wet feet. Posts: 2,273 Thanks: 404 Thanked 309 Times in 246 Posts	When I had mine replaced at a garage, then ended up using an induction heater and a 3/4" windy gun and then it played ball. __________________ Richard. No longer a 75 owner as my tourer made it to the moon, and died on it's way back. But 1/4 million miles ain't bad.

6th June 2017, 14:44	#4
RPWC This is my second home 75 model car Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 20,177 Thanks: 4,008 Thanked 5,083 Times in 3,114 Posts	Colin (2 diesels) did mine last year, we borrowed the holding tool from Brian, and even the impact wrench wouldn't undo the bolt, he had to use a socket and extension bar, with a power bar to get it slack, it took a while. To replace it we borrowed a 3/4 drive socket, ground down to fit inside the holding tool, along with 3/4 drive extension bar and power bar. Remember the tightening sequence, 100nm, then 60 degrees, 30 degrees, and a final 30 degrees. __________________ Cheers. Rich…

6th June 2017, 15:05	#5
lektrix Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Leicester Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Thank you.... Thank you to everybody who has kindly replied. I found a supplier of the locking tool. Bit expensive and also the castellated part on the pulley has been damaged after being hit by the looks of it. Not sure what to do. I also heard of the induction heating method as well which sounds promising. Nobody around seems to have the kit for this. Going to buy the locking tool and make a hefty bar up and see if I can get it done. Thank you again.

6th June 2017, 20:46	#8
cossie dunc I really should get out more....... rover 75 contemporary se cdti + rover 75 connie cdti work horse Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: West lothian Posts: 2,258 Thanks: 217 Thanked 424 Times in 189 Posts	The induction heater is the way to go, it's never let me down yet and I've changed a fair few __________________ TOO MANY ROVERS @ CDL autotec Scotland's rover 75/mg zt service,repair & enthusiast centre Used parts.....servicing.......mechanical repairs.......modifications Call Duncan 07415 251 705

6th June 2017, 13:56	#2
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,752 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	Every diesel owner has this problem with the crankshaft pulley. The official method uses a pulley holding tool, rather than locking the flywheel. This removes any stress/flex on the crankshaft. Having said that, these tools are few and far between and you still need a six foot scaffold pipe on the socket. There was a 'home made' version of the tool recently being sold on eBay, but I can't see one at the moment. You might be able to hire one somewhere. The bolts are supplied with a thread sealant I believe, but that's not what's stopping you getting it off. They're simply installed ultratight. TC

6th June 2017, 21:11	#10
zaph Avid contributor Rover 75 Join Date: May 2015 Location: Leeds Posts: 135 Thanks: 0 Thanked 17 Times in 11 Posts	There is a sure fire why that worked for us on an old Xantia, but it is very much try at your own risk. Get a socket on a bar, put bar in pipe, firmly wedge pipe in ground. Turn engine over, crank nut is loose. Like I said it is potentially dangerous, so at your own risk, but it does work.