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Old 22nd June 2017, 10:47   #31
EastPete
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Originally Posted by Daveluck View Post
However having said that - lot of reports that the tazu master gives a lighter clutch ( if you can live with running the copper pipe and the reported " noise " from that pipe.)

I'll be getting slave and master from tazu but I'm thinking the issue withe copper pipe will not be so severe for me as it is a lhd. ( More or less straight through the bulk head to the slave. Very few bends and twists when compared to the rhd - ever hopeful..)
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The Tazu MC copper pipe will certainly be easier to fit on the LHD cars - not all diesels seem to suffer from noise problems with the copper pipe (there must be something funny about my car) !. You could get a short flexible hose made up for the LHD car- it will be much shorter than the one for RHD cars, so could work quite well. I think the Tazu MC itself is good - it needs two things to make it perfect:

-Re-design of the angle of the rear pipe outlet, so the pipework exits at the correct angle to go through the bulkhead
- A plastic or flexible hose of the correct diameter (similar to OEM MCs) in place of the copper pipe .

Let us know how you get on with the work.

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Old 22nd June 2017, 11:40   #32
HarryM1BYT
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I've been told the same Trev by one garage, and the other reckons I will need a DMF, you just cant trust some of these garage services.



I agree, if only.


Seems I have a dilemma on my hands...
1: Do I go with what my heart is telling me, keep her and get the clutch sorted, she is in great condition after-all, and the belts were done this year.

2: Common sense tells me £900+ is a ridiculous amount for one repair on a vehicle this age. Drive her until the clutch totally fails, could be days, could be weeks, months... who knows.

She is way to good to scrap though, but what is one meant to do? I'm a strong believer in not wasting money, paying for something I feel is worth the money, or the risk (I have my father to blame).
How would getting the job done, be a waste of money?

All cars cost money in repairs, once they have a few years and miles under their belt. A car might only be able to be sold for say £500 and the cost of repair say £600, but who ever bought it would have to invest that money in it anyway - might as well be you. A clutch is just a normal replacement item, like tyres and etc., which all cars need from time to time.

Work out how much you might have paid for new, versus how much the car has cost you over the years. Without doubt, you will be well in debt to the car for the years you have had it.
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Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 22nd June 2017, 12:20   #33
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I think (and excuse me if I'm wrong) that the most people assess the repair cost in two ways.
  1. If I repair the car will I get the full value of the repair out of it in time/mileage before another big repair bill?
  2. If I repair the car will I get the full value of the repair out of it in time/mileage before some numpty crashes into it and writes it off for less than the value of the repair?
The trouble is that a car with a book value of e.g. £1000 and a failing clutch has the same book value as an identical car with a new clutch.



The clutch on my cdti has lasted over 80k in just under 4 years - so at £1000 for the whole lot (dmf included) was worth it. If the car had had major problems beyond repair in less than two years I would've been out of pocket on the deal. (in that time it's also needed belts, brakes, injectors, and all three fuel pumps on top of normal servicing--- P.S. and a steering rack)



Point 2 is actually irrelevant - no-one ever gets the true value of the vehicle paid out in an insurance write-off - and it's not something you can plan to mitigate really.
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Old 23rd June 2017, 13:39   #34
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Well I'm puzzled

The wife drove the ZT this morning, and she reckons its fine... its always been the same, she says.

She could be right I suppose... as I've driven several cars over the past two months, I've not really driven the ZT.
It could be that I've jumped back in the ZT and thought this clutch is blooming stiff, I've obviously been comparing it to the cars that I've recently been driving.

So its either the normal usual clutch stiffness these cars are known for, or the clutch is in fact showing signs of wear and this is what I'm sensing.

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Old 23rd June 2017, 23:00   #35
HarryM1BYT
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Well I'm puzzled

The wife drove the ZT this morning, and she reckons its fine... its always been the same, she says.

She could be right I suppose... as I've driven several cars over the past two months, I've not really driven the ZT.
It could be that I've jumped back in the ZT and thought this clutch is blooming stiff, I've obviously been comparing it to the cars that I've recently been driving.

So its either the normal usual clutch stiffness these cars are known for, or the clutch is in fact showing signs of wear and this is what I'm sensing.
My first impression on first driving my own 75, was how very heavy the clutch was compared to other cars I had driven and how it needed to be floored to make a sweet change. Bleeding and flushing and lubricating, reduced the need to floor it. I just acclimatized to the pressure needed over time.

The only way to check it would be with a scale of some sort almost pushing the pedal to the floor. I have in mind something like a nose weight gauge, as used to check the nose weight of a caravan.
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How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 24th June 2017, 08:52   #36
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You've two ZT,s Wes. How do they compare?
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Old 24th June 2017, 09:58   #37
Dallas
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You've two ZT,s Wes. How do they compare?
Soon to be one Trev there was once three, now two, and soon to be one.

The clutch on the blue Z is a lot lighter, seems my problem may well be the pressure plate.
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Old 24th June 2017, 16:50   #38
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As the friction disc wears the clutch gets heavier. I'm sure it's to do with the change of angles of the pressure plate fingers requiring more force as "moment" has altered. You'll notice that when you fit a clutch and tighten the pressure plate bolts the fingers move toward the flywheel, on a worn plate they assume a position nearer the release bearing/slave, the angles have changed.
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Old 24th June 2017, 21:46   #39
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Originally Posted by murphyv310 View Post
As the friction disc wears the clutch gets heavier. I'm sure it's to do with the change of angles of the pressure plate fingers requiring more force as "moment" has altered. You'll notice that when you fit a clutch and tighten the pressure plate bolts the fingers move toward the flywheel, on a worn plate they assume a position nearer the release bearing/slave, the angles have changed.
That is correct....BUT..as quoted in a previous post my clutch is sometimes light and then after a longish drive it appears heavy,most times first thing it is again light and then sometimes it is heavy.If as you say it alters as the clutch wears why does my clutch differ from one day to another.

I will give it a flush asap and see if it makes a difference.
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Old 24th June 2017, 21:51   #40
Dallas
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How straight forward is it to flush a clutch, never attempted one before.
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