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22nd June 2017, 10:47 | #31 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Quote:
The Tazu MC copper pipe will certainly be easier to fit on the LHD cars - not all diesels seem to suffer from noise problems with the copper pipe (there must be something funny about my car) !. You could get a short flexible hose made up for the LHD car- it will be much shorter than the one for RHD cars, so could work quite well. I think the Tazu MC itself is good - it needs two things to make it perfect: -Re-design of the angle of the rear pipe outlet, so the pipework exits at the correct angle to go through the bulkhead - A plastic or flexible hose of the correct diameter (similar to OEM MCs) in place of the copper pipe . Let us know how you get on with the work. Cheers Pete |
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22nd June 2017, 11:40 | #32 | |
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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All cars cost money in repairs, once they have a few years and miles under their belt. A car might only be able to be sold for say £500 and the cost of repair say £600, but who ever bought it would have to invest that money in it anyway - might as well be you. A clutch is just a normal replacement item, like tyres and etc., which all cars need from time to time. Work out how much you might have paid for new, versus how much the car has cost you over the years. Without doubt, you will be well in debt to the car for the years you have had it.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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22nd June 2017, 12:20 | #33 |
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I think (and excuse me if I'm wrong) that the most people assess the repair cost in two ways.
The clutch on my cdti has lasted over 80k in just under 4 years - so at £1000 for the whole lot (dmf included) was worth it. If the car had had major problems beyond repair in less than two years I would've been out of pocket on the deal. (in that time it's also needed belts, brakes, injectors, and all three fuel pumps on top of normal servicing--- P.S. and a steering rack) Point 2 is actually irrelevant - no-one ever gets the true value of the vehicle paid out in an insurance write-off - and it's not something you can plan to mitigate really.
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Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button Last edited by Avulon; 22nd June 2017 at 12:47.. Reason: forgot the steering rack! |
23rd June 2017, 13:39 | #34 |
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Well I'm puzzled
The wife drove the ZT this morning, and she reckons its fine... its always been the same, she says. She could be right I suppose... as I've driven several cars over the past two months, I've not really driven the ZT. It could be that I've jumped back in the ZT and thought this clutch is blooming stiff, I've obviously been comparing it to the cars that I've recently been driving. So its either the normal usual clutch stiffness these cars are known for, or the clutch is in fact showing signs of wear and this is what I'm sensing. Last edited by Dallas; 23rd June 2017 at 14:53.. |
23rd June 2017, 23:00 | #35 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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The only way to check it would be with a scale of some sort almost pushing the pedal to the floor. I have in mind something like a nose weight gauge, as used to check the nose weight of a caravan.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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24th June 2017, 08:52 | #36 |
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You've two ZT,s Wes. How do they compare?
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24th June 2017, 09:58 | #37 |
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24th June 2017, 16:50 | #38 |
This is my second home
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As the friction disc wears the clutch gets heavier. I'm sure it's to do with the change of angles of the pressure plate fingers requiring more force as "moment" has altered. You'll notice that when you fit a clutch and tighten the pressure plate bolts the fingers move toward the flywheel, on a worn plate they assume a position nearer the release bearing/slave, the angles have changed.
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24th June 2017, 21:46 | #39 | |
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Quote:
I will give it a flush asap and see if it makes a difference.
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] "I started out with nothing, and Ive still got most of it left!" |
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24th June 2017, 21:51 | #40 |
This is my second home
1979 Capri 1.6L, 1982 Capri 1.6L, 2016 Dacia Stepway Join Date: Jun 2009
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How straight forward is it to flush a clutch, never attempted one before.
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