Auxiliary belt tensioner

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Now the temperature is just about on the better side of 30° I've set about replacing the alternator and power steering pump.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=320376

Everything was going to plan until I was unable to release the tensioner. I used my adapted 24mm spanner and piece of wood, but nothing happened. I think the bolt is just spinning without turning the spring.

I managed to get the belt off by levering it with a screwdriver and turning the crankshaft. I'd considered cutting it but i only fitted it in July after the previous one snapped. I fitted it in the same way by cranking the crank after struggling like hell with the tensioner previously.

I think I found the same problem here:
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&postcount=46

Is it possible to tighten these tensioner bolts? It looks a devil of job to get access to replace the tensioner.....

[Arctic]

[QUOTE=Andy_with_a_screwdriver;2942568]Now the temperature is just about on the better side of 30° I've set about replacing the alternator and power steering pump.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=320376

Everything was going to plan until I was unable to release the tensioner. I used my adapted 24mm spanner and piece of wood, but nothing happened. I think the bolt is just spinning without turning the spring.

I managed to get the belt off by levering it with a screwdriver and turning the crankshaft. I'd considered cutting it but i only fitted it in July after the previous one snapped. I fitted it in the same way by cranking the crank after struggling like hell with the tensioner previously.

I think I found the same problem here:
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&postcount=46

Is it possible to tighten these tensioner bolts? It looks a devil of job to get access to replace the tensioner.....[/QUOT

E]

Yes it's possible you need to get a spanner on the bolt head at the rear, tight but can be done, ground down aviation spanner is best to do the job.

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This engine was out of the car but it will give you an idea of what i mean.
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Remember when you have got the spanner on the bolt at the back, turning the front tensioner bolt the same way as you do to take the tension off the belt will tighten it, or you can hold the front still and tighten from the back, hope this as helped

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Cheers Steve

With the steering pump & alternator out, I was able to get 15mm spanner in from the front end. Mrs Andy held the 24 underneath and I've tightened it with the 15.

Just rebuilding now , I'm finally on the shade of my bonnet

[Arctic]

Hi Andy.
good news then you should be able to pull the tensioner back enough now to get the belt back on comfortable

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver

Cheers Steve

With the steering pump & alternator out, I was able to get 15mm spanner in from the front end. Mrs Andy held the 24 underneath and I've tightened it with the 15.

Just rebuilding now , I'm finally on the shade of my bonnet

If anyone else has this happen you can tighten the tensioner nut without removing anything. As mentioned it is a left hand thread.

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver

Cheers Steve

With the steering pump & alternator out, I was able to get 15mm spanner in from the front end. Mrs Andy held the 24 underneath and I've tightened it with the 15.

Just rebuilding now , I'm finally on the shade of my bonnet

Update.

After doing this tightening, and then starting to refit the alternator, I found that the tensioner pulley had stopped rotating freely. I backed it off a 1/4 turn which improved it.
I put everything back together (without using the tensioner), and started it up. Everything sounded ok.
Alternator is good giving 14.5 volts which only drops to 14.2 under full electrical load.
Next for a road test. When I attempted to turn the steering wheel for manoeuvring onto the road, there was a rumbling sort of sound and juddering feeling back through the steering wheel. I was expecting some noise as the steering pump purged the air from its system but not this.
As speed increased i didn't go above about 50mph, the noise was less noticeable.
There used to be a small amount of this noise and judder at the extreme of steering lock previously.
I'm assuming that this could be the tensioner on it's way out? especially as it wouldn't free wheel properly it's done 220k assuming it's the original, which it looks like it could be.

Is this a job that can be done with the engine in situ? the tensioner arm looks to long to be withdrawn in the space available?
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...cdti-pqr000080

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Andy_with_a_screwdriver

Update.

After doing this tightening, and then starting to refit the alternator, I found that the tensioner pulley had stopped rotating freely. I backed it off a 1/4 turn which improved it.
I put everything back together (without using the tensioner), and started it up. Everything sounded ok.
Alternator is good giving 14.5 volts which only drops to 14.2 under full electrical load.
Next for a road test. When I attempted to turn the steering wheel for manoeuvring onto the road, there was a rumbling sort of sound and juddering feeling back through the steering wheel. I was expecting some noise as the steering pump purged the air from its system but not this.

ilable?
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...cdti-pqr000080

Hi Andy.
You would have to drop the engine a little so it clear the chassis arm you could then remove the tensioner, or wheel, tightening the tensioner nut up should not have made any difference to the wheel rotating? i would go over it again and double check other wheel etc it could be the water pump sticking or you may have tightened the A/C compressor belt to much.

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[Mike Noc]

Yes something isn't right if you have to back the tensioner nut off. With the belt off you can loosen the nut right off and then inspect the bearing to see why it isn't running freely.

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Andy.
You would have to drop the engine a little so it clear the chassis arm you could then remove the tensioner, or wheel, tightening the tensioner nut up should not have made any difference to the wheel rotating? i would go over it again and double check other wheel etc it could be the water pump sticking or you may have tightened the A/C compressor belt to much.

I checked each pulley after when trying to clean them, and all seemed free.

re AC. I wondered that but it's in the same position as before. The seems noise is independent of the air con and isn't any different when it's on or off.

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Yes something isn't right if you have to back the tensioner nut off. With the belt off you can loosen the nut right off and then inspect the bearing to see why it isn't running freely.

Seemed like the bearing was perhaps make a slight grinding noise.

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Update.

I had a quick check this morning before work.

I tightened one of the steering pump pulley bolts a 1/4 turn, because I couldn't recall doing that yesterday after the belt was fitted.

Started it up, a bit of noise whilst getting out of the parking space. Took it for a run about a mile around the streets lots of twist & turns, did a couple parallel parks and it seems considerably less noisy, almost to the point of nothing unusual

There was a bit of whine when on full lock, but that is pretty normal i think.

I checked steering fluid, and it seemed quite clear today. Last night was lots of foam in tank.

As a precaution I've just ordered a new tensioner and spare belts from euro carparts to collect tomorrow am.