Broken bonnet cable

Graham E · 15th February 2020, 11:11

Hi my passenger side bonnet cable has snapped so I can't open my bonnet.

I've got at the cables via the wheel arch method and have managed to pop the drivers side, but the passenger side cable just slides on out.

I've done a search and the only option I can see is cutting the pin which I don't really want to do. Is there another way?

I've ordered new cables from DMGRS

Car is a ZT-T

Thanks

Sheraton · 15th February 2020, 11:40

You'll need to Cut the Striker Pin - just takes a bit of time and patience

easy enough though

Paul.

Graham E · 15th February 2020, 11:42

I was hoping for a different reply

Oh well if that's the only way.

Thanks for reply.

Odd Job · 15th February 2020, 11:56

Are new bonnet cables still available?

Just thought I'd ask as I might replace mine before I have issues.

stocktake · 15th February 2020, 12:01

If it is a Mk1 75 and you can manage to pop the scrivets that hold the grill on at the top and remove the grill then there is a chance you could get to the two bolts that hold the pin onto the bonnet.

Edit, just seen you have a ZTT hacksaw it is then

CMOORESY · 18th February 2020, 19:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

If it is a Mk1 75 and you can manage to pop the scrivets that hold the grill on at the top and remove the grill then there is a chance you could get to the two bolts that hold the pin onto the bonnet.
(

If its a MK2 then its easier, Just undo the two 10mm bolts holding the bayonet with a bent spanner.

suzublu · 15th February 2020, 12:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Odd Job

Are new bonnet cables still available?

Just thought I'd ask as I might replace mine before I have issues.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001773

Odd Job · 15th February 2020, 12:10

Many thanks.

CMOORESY · 18th February 2020, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sheraton

You'll need to Cut the Striker Pin - just takes a bit of time and patience

easy enough though

Don't cut the striker pin, just undo the two 10mm bolts that hold it in place!

CMOORESY · 18th February 2020, 19:22

DO NOT CUT ANYTHING, YOU DO NOT NEED A HACKSAW OR TO PULL YOUR GRILL OFF TO DO THIS PROPERLY!!!

There is some well meaning but poor advice written about this simple task.

This task can be carried out in about 20 mins without any damage to your car whatsoever.

So, assuming that its not the junction box that's the problem and its at the latch or a broken/rusted cable at fault -

Firstly, I have only experienced a rusted through bonnet cable on two facelift cars however, I cant see it being much different on a pre-facelifts?

OK -

Get a crappy old 10mm spanner and bend the head (see image).

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...pstl2tbap8.jpg

Release the bonnet latch to fee up the side of the bonnet that still works (so the good unbroken latch is released)

Put some tape around the bonnet and the bumper in the area of the broken bonnet latch and bayonet so as not to mark the paint should you slip with the spanner or something, highly unlikely, but just in case.

Wrap a short piece of wood or something similar in a soft rag to make a wedge. This is inserted between the bumper and the leading edge of the bonnet on the released side with the intention of -
1. making the bonnet to bumper gap bigger
2. putting an upward force on the bonnet

Now get your bent 10mm spanner and a torch. locate the bayonet on the broken side, put the spanner though the gap and carefully undo the two 10mm bolts on the underside of the bonnet. Its a bit fiddly, but you can do it.

Alternate from one bolt to the other, this way, each turn will give you more room to work, as the bonnet is forced up by the wedge that you have put in place on the opposite side. Slide the wedge along to keep the upward force on the bonnet as you undo the bolts.

Once the two bolts are unscrewed the bonnet will pop open with the bayonet still in the catch on the slam panel.

This can be released by inserting a small screwdriver in the latch between the plunger and the catch to push the catch back thus releasing the plunger.

now you can fix the cable etc.

The thing that slows this down is the limited access due to the lip on the bayonet fixing plate, as a precaution, you can remove and flatten the leading edges of each bayonet bracket once the bonnet is open, then if it happens again, you can do the job in about 5 mins and not 20 mins, and you wont need the bent spanner (see image of flattened leading bayonet plates on my car)

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5asreen.jpg

Simple, nothing broken or damaged and everything reusable.
I posted this how to on here years ago, so cant understand why there is still poor advice circulating.

15th February 2020, 11:11	#1
Graham E Loves to post MG ZT-T CDTI Join Date: May 2010 Location: Newport Posts: 384 Thanks: 7 Thanked 25 Times in 23 Posts	Broken bonnet cable Hi my passenger side bonnet cable has snapped so I can't open my bonnet. I've got at the cables via the wheel arch method and have managed to pop the drivers side, but the passenger side cable just slides on out. I've done a search and the only option I can see is cutting the pin which I don't really want to do. Is there another way? I've ordered new cables from DMGRS Car is a ZT-T Thanks __________________ This vehicle was the 5,602nd ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 This vehicle was the 383rd ZT-T CDTi + (115) to be made out of 522 This vehicle was the 995th ZT-T in XPower Grey (code: LEF) to be made out of 1,673 XPower Grey ZT-Ts Last edited by Graham E; 15th February 2020 at 11:14..

15th February 2020, 11:42	#3
Graham E Loves to post MG ZT-T CDTI Join Date: May 2010 Location: Newport Posts: 384 Thanks: 7 Thanked 25 Times in 23 Posts	I was hoping for a different reply Oh well if that's the only way. Thanks for reply. __________________ This vehicle was the 5,602nd ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 This vehicle was the 383rd ZT-T CDTi + (115) to be made out of 522 This vehicle was the 995th ZT-T in XPower Grey (code: LEF) to be made out of 1,673 XPower Grey ZT-Ts

15th February 2020, 11:56	#4
Odd Job Gets stuck in MG ZT 2.0 cdti Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Derby Posts: 909 Thanks: 298 Thanked 191 Times in 149 Posts	Are new bonnet cables still available? Just thought I'd ask as I might replace mine before I have issues. __________________ ….And the latest thing to break is..... ### MG STANDS FOR "MY GREMLIN" !!!

15th February 2020, 12:01	#5
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,591 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	If it is a Mk1 75 and you can manage to pop the scrivets that hold the grill on at the top and remove the grill then there is a chance you could get to the two bolts that hold the pin onto the bonnet. Edit, just seen you have a ZTT hacksaw it is then __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

15th February 2020, 12:10	#8
Odd Job Gets stuck in MG ZT 2.0 cdti Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Derby Posts: 909 Thanks: 298 Thanked 191 Times in 149 Posts	Many thanks. __________________ ….And the latest thing to break is..... ### MG STANDS FOR "MY GREMLIN" !!!

15th February 2020, 11:40	#2
Sheraton Posted a thing or two Rover 75 1.8t Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,377 Thanks: 384 Thanked 409 Times in 267 Posts	You'll need to Cut the Striker Pin - just takes a bit of time and patience easy enough though Paul.

18th February 2020, 19:22	#10
CMOORESY Avid contributor MG ZT Auto and 75 Tourer Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Nantwich Posts: 182 Thanks: 8 Thanked 52 Times in 20 Posts	DO NOT CUT ANYTHING, YOU DO NOT NEED A HACKSAW OR TO PULL YOUR GRILL OFF TO DO THIS PROPERLY!!! There is some well meaning but poor advice written about this simple task. This task can be carried out in about 20 mins without any damage to your car whatsoever. So, assuming that its not the junction box that's the problem and its at the latch or a broken/rusted cable at fault - Firstly, I have only experienced a rusted through bonnet cable on two facelift cars however, I cant see it being much different on a pre-facelifts? OK - Get a crappy old 10mm spanner and bend the head (see image). https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...pstl2tbap8.jpg Release the bonnet latch to fee up the side of the bonnet that still works (so the good unbroken latch is released) Put some tape around the bonnet and the bumper in the area of the broken bonnet latch and bayonet so as not to mark the paint should you slip with the spanner or something, highly unlikely, but just in case. Wrap a short piece of wood or something similar in a soft rag to make a wedge. This is inserted between the bumper and the leading edge of the bonnet on the released side with the intention of - 1. making the bonnet to bumper gap bigger 2. putting an upward force on the bonnet Now get your bent 10mm spanner and a torch. locate the bayonet on the broken side, put the spanner though the gap and carefully undo the two 10mm bolts on the underside of the bonnet. Its a bit fiddly, but you can do it. Alternate from one bolt to the other, this way, each turn will give you more room to work, as the bonnet is forced up by the wedge that you have put in place on the opposite side. Slide the wedge along to keep the upward force on the bonnet as you undo the bolts. Once the two bolts are unscrewed the bonnet will pop open with the bayonet still in the catch on the slam panel. This can be released by inserting a small screwdriver in the latch between the plunger and the catch to push the catch back thus releasing the plunger. now you can fix the cable etc. The thing that slows this down is the limited access due to the lip on the bayonet fixing plate, as a precaution, you can remove and flatten the leading edges of each bayonet bracket once the bonnet is open, then if it happens again, you can do the job in about 5 mins and not 20 mins, and you wont need the bent spanner (see image of flattened leading bayonet plates on my car) https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5asreen.jpg Simple, nothing broken or damaged and everything reusable. I posted this how to on here years ago, so cant understand why there is still poor advice circulating. Last edited by CMOORESY; 18th February 2020 at 20:26..